LISR310CW0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

First removed front washer access panel.
Next: removed top panel torx screws and disconnected lid switch wiring connector
Next: removed washer top/lid
Next: removed inoperative lid switch (two phillips head screws)
Next: installed new lid switch and screws
Next: installed washer top and connected lid switch wire connector
Next: installed control panel and screws
Next: tested installation
Next: installed front washer access panel
Easy repair. FYI, Parts Select had best price and part arrived within two days of ordering! Highly recommend them for your parts.

First I removed the agitator with a belt. Then I removed the nut with a wrench. The Agitator coupli was smooth on the inside so I knew that was the problem. I got the new part, slid it into place. Tightened the new bolt and replaced the Agitator component with a quick push downwards. Easy!

We couldnt figure out why our clothes werent getting clean until I took the door magnet off and placed it on the sensor so we could watch the washing machine while it was operating with the lid open. The agitator was not moving at all. I put a rope through the fins of the agitator on 2 sides, and using a board for leverage, it popped right off. I used a socket to remove the coupler screw and put on the new parts. Washer works great now. A very easy repair.

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.

Part Select inclusion of parts diagram helped determine which part was broken, and how to disassemble just what was necessary. I was planning to open up the control panel to get inside, which was not necessary. Assembly was simple for the same reason. Sometimes, it does help to read the "manual" first....

I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.

I took the control knob off and saw the teeth broken and got on line and ordered the part. It was an easy fix.

I used a pair of needle nose pliers and a screw drive to remove the clip holding the knob on its shaft. The new knob came with its clip already in place, so it "popped" right on. I ordered the compression ring in error and it it was not needed

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.

Uhhhhhh.... Pulled knob off. Pushed new knob on. Took all of 5 seconds.

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.

I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.

Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid
Disconnected power from wall
Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor
Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose
Removed top lifts off easliy
With help released Washing drum assy from hangers
Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine
Pulled agatator up and off of hub
Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket
Pull off cap
Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut
Removed inner washing drum
Turned over Entire Assy (motor up)
Removed belt (slid off)
Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum
Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out
Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy.
There were service instruction under the front control panel.

After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.