WNSE5699A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

I decided without see exactly where the water was coming from to replace the pump and all the drain or inlet hoses, connectors, whatever carried water due to the age of the machine, almost 17 years old. I also decide to change the tub seal.
1. unplug
2. disconnect water supply
3. remove back of washer
4. laid washer on its front on a rug
5. removed the drain and filler hoses (3) different hoses and all new clamps
6. closed up everything, hooked up everything ran short cycle

WHEN THE PUMP STARTED SO DID THE WATER POURING OUT FROM UNDER THE WASHER, MORE THAN BEFORE I CHANGED OUT THE PARTS

I decided the tub seal was leaking. It was a logical decision and it was the last part that carried water that I didn't change.
1. remove front panel
2. remove top panel
3. remove electrical connection inside pane and remove entire top panel
4. remove agitator and agitator cup
5. remove top ring that hold inner liner
6. here is the problem, a special tool is required to remove the tub seal nut or a 1-11/16" socket that I didn't have
7. tried a new pipe wrench and rust buster taking care that the nut is soft metal
8. decided to purchase the correct tool(socket) and put everything back together to do two weeks worth of laundry
I left the front panel off to pinpoint where the water leaks was and when the pump started there was no leak in the washer. However, water was pouring across the floor.
I found that the house drain pipe was cracked on the top and back. This was on the outlet side of the trap. I would have never suspected the drain (PVC) with no stress or load on it to crack across the top of the pipe.
So anyway, $240 later for washer parts and $6.47 for a new piece of PVC I no longer have a problem, wrong!
Started a load of laundry and the washer will only fill for a small load.
1. Removed the front panel
2. removed the tube to the fill switch thinking there was water in it that's making the switch think its full when its not, NO WATER.
3. Shot air in the tube and made sure the switch clicked audibly
4 Started the washer with the fill switch tube off and waited for waited for water to start flowing out and then hooked up the tube and it shut off the water with a full load. Everything worked.
Tub seal still not changed but no leaks.

At first the knob seemed like it would not fit on, but after I sprayed it with WD-40 oil, it slipped with a gentle, steady push

Just push knob on less than 4 seconds

I first placed a rope under the fins of the agitator and used a 2X4 board to pull up the agitator which needed very little force to release itself from the agitator coupling. I removed the nut holding the agitator coupling, removed the stripped agitator coupling. Installation was just the reverse process, inserted the new agitator coupling, placed and tightened the screw, and pressed down the agitator over the agitator coupling and I was done. Over time for the repair was between 5 and 10 minutes, very easy, and I have no experience repairing washing machines.

took out the agitator then removed the agitator coupli and found out that the coupli was worn out, i then replaced it and everything worked again

Took new one out of package, and push it on. 4 seconds!

I was going to replace the washer. .. I am a cabinet maker and pretty good at what I do. I have to admit before seeing the video I was out of my comfort zone with this repair. I was shown not only the part needed and that you folks had the part in your inventory on hand. I was pleased to see how inexpensive it was $7.40. I had it shipped for $8.70. I ordered online at 2 pm. the part arrived the next day at 1 pm. AMAZING!. I spent ten minutes making the repair. The machine is now back to it's like new self! Regards, MichaelAndrews.biz

This was not hard to do.removed top screws and back plate screws. Water inlet valve has 3 screws and a hose clamp.this job was thirty min. tops.goes back together much faster then taking it apart.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.

After receiving the wrong part 2x instead of magnet assy I received a metal clip ring. ordererd magnet assy from another source. iNSTALLATION IS VERY SIMPLE. REMOVE 2 SCEWS IN THE LID WHICH HOLD THE MAGNET IN PLACE AND REPLACE THE MAGNET WITH NEW ONE. TEST TO MAKE SURE ALL OPERATIONS ARE NORMAL.

followed the video you provided and it was easy!

I put the nob on the post, one side is flat the rest of the lever on the dryer is round. So I matched up the lever with he inside of the new knob and slid it on . The dryer works perfectly. I ordered it on May 5 th and the nob arrived May 15 th. I guess Georgia is a long way from Arizona. But the part fit perfectly and I am happy. Thankyou.

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

We removed the agitator then the bolt holding couplier. The inside of the plastic couplier had stripped after 5 years. We cleaned around the metal part of the agitator then installed the new GE plastic couplier, put in the bolt & replaced the agitator. The machine works better than ever.

The GE website said this part had to be replaced by a certified technician. The estimated service call alone was $80 & the part was not available from the GE website.