WNSE5699A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

(As I am an older female, I used YouTube to review the repair before trying it. YouTube scared me, the actual repair was much easier) I removed the agitator from the washer which revealed the agitator assembly held in place by a bolt. After removing the bolt, the assembly was lifted off the spindle. I cleaned the grime off the agitator, the spindle and the bottom of the washer basket. New agitator assembly was placed onto the spindle and pushed down. There was a distinctive click when it slid into place. I replaced the bolt to the top of the assembly. tightened it down, then slid the agitator over the assembly, matching grooves to teeth until that also slid into place with a click. It honestly took me longer to clean the grime than to change the part. Agitator is working perfectly

Pull off the agitator. Remove 1 bolt on coupler pull off coupler. Slide new coupler onto spindle. Replace bolt. Line up and slide on agitator. Seat it firmly in place. Done. Took all of 2 minutes.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

I bought 3 parts for I didn't know what I need so I listen to the companies video twice.
I popped off the agitator which was easy. then had a little trouble with getting the screw/nut out it was rusty. Finally got that off then I worked backwards and I found I didn't need all the parts which I sent back with no problems. My machine works as good as new ,it has stopped making noise. I am really proud I did this by myself and didn't need my husbands help,

I also spent less than 12.00 to fix and a new one is over 600.00.

Thank You
Christine brooks

1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

I decided without see exactly where the water was coming from to replace the pump and all the drain or inlet hoses, connectors, whatever carried water due to the age of the machine, almost 17 years old. I also decide to change the tub seal.
1. unplug
2. disconnect water supply
3. remove back of washer
4. laid washer on its front on a rug
5. removed the drain and filler hoses (3) different hoses and all new clamps
6. closed up everything, hooked up everything ran short cycle

WHEN THE PUMP STARTED SO DID THE WATER POURING OUT FROM UNDER THE WASHER, MORE THAN BEFORE I CHANGED OUT THE PARTS

I decided the tub seal was leaking. It was a logical decision and it was the last part that carried water that I didn't change.
1. remove front panel
2. remove top panel
3. remove electrical connection inside pane and remove entire top panel
4. remove agitator and agitator cup
5. remove top ring that hold inner liner
6. here is the problem, a special tool is required to remove the tub seal nut or a 1-11/16" socket that I didn't have
7. tried a new pipe wrench and rust buster taking care that the nut is soft metal
8. decided to purchase the correct tool(socket) and put everything back together to do two weeks worth of laundry
I left the front panel off to pinpoint where the water leaks was and when the pump started there was no leak in the washer. However, water was pouring across the floor.
I found that the house drain pipe was cracked on the top and back. This was on the outlet side of the trap. I would have never suspected the drain (PVC) with no stress or load on it to crack across the top of the pipe.
So anyway, $240 later for washer parts and $6.47 for a new piece of PVC I no longer have a problem, wrong!
Started a load of laundry and the washer will only fill for a small load.
1. Removed the front panel
2. removed the tube to the fill switch thinking there was water in it that's making the switch think its full when its not, NO WATER.
3. Shot air in the tube and made sure the switch clicked audibly
4 Started the washer with the fill switch tube off and waited for waited for water to start flowing out and then hooked up the tube and it shut off the water with a full load. Everything worked.
Tub seal still not changed but no leaks.

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

took the two screws that holds the instrument selections off retreived the directions from inside this panel and followed directions step by step and removed the spline that makes the machine agitate, seen that the inside of the spline was smooth, ordered part and reversed operation in putting it back together.
p.s. make sure the refill shutoff hose is connected as we had forgot to do this and we ran water on the floor, had to take back apart and re-connect thehose .

ordering the part and fixing it myself with my sons help saved me a repair bill which I am sure would have cost me at least $75.00 more.

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

replaces as per video. Very helpful