WLE6000B3WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I was going to replace the washer. .. I am a cabinet maker and pretty good at what I do. I have to admit before seeing the video I was out of my comfort zone with this repair. I was shown not only the part needed and that you folks had the part in your inventory on hand. I was pleased to see how inexpensive it was $7.40. I had it shipped for $8.70. I ordered online at 2 pm. the part arrived the next day at 1 pm. AMAZING!. I spent ten minutes making the repair. The machine is now back to it's like new self! Regards, MichaelAndrews.biz

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

Pull front cover and changed pump. Your delivery of this part was remarkable. Thanks for such good service.

Just push knob on less than 4 seconds

I removed the center piece in the washer by pulling up on it, removed the retaining bolt and the agitator coupling.

Installation reverse of removal...no problems. The spline on the inside of the agitator coupling was worn out.

I never would have though about it until I searched the problem on line. I had already decided that I would have to buy a new washer (again)...I had a pressure switch problem about 6 months ago.

PartSelect is great...I ordered the parts for both problems from them and I have kept my old washer alive.

My wife calls me and says that the washer is not draining water so I was like "great"...here goes more money. After I tried draining, cleaning, checking for leaks, I looked up possible causes and came across the water pump. I have bought from parts select and I love this website so I jumped on here, found the causes, diagram, installation videos, and cheap parts. Added to cart, paid, and was here in about two days. I disconnected the electricity, opened the front lid, took off the two hoses, unscrewed the pump, swapped in the new one and hooked it back up. The washer works like new, took me about 10 minutes. Thanks Partselect!!!!

Took the front cover off and tapped the motor on the old pump with the end of a screwdriver. The pump immediately started pumping,so, I knew it was the problem. Ordered the new pump and motor from PartSelect and received it in 2 days. Removed the old assembly and replaced it with the new one in less than 30 minutes per the video instructions on PartSelect's website. Wife is happy :) and I saved at least $100 bucks, probably more. Btw, a local appliance dealer where I bought the washer, wanted $63 for the pump/motor assembly and said it would take 4-5 days to get it. I paid $42 including shipping from PartSelect, and received it in 2 days!

First I removed the Front panel with a screwdriver, poped right out. Disconnected the two wires, removed two clamps from hoses on pump, then two screws at base. removed old pump, installed new pump ,tighten two screws, reinstalled hoses and clamps to pump, then put front panel back on, job completed in less than 1/2 hour. tested washer, pump worked and drained tub. easy fix saved cost to repairman $150 plus part cost.
Thanks for the information , learned how to change pump from another repair story on your web site!!

took out the agitator then removed the agitator coupli and found out that the coupli was worn out, i then replaced it and everything worked again

I just added the agitator coupling and screwed it in.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.

removed front washer cover (2) clips at top released with straight screwdriver . removed washer top cover (2) 1/4" head screws that are behind front washer cover. Then removed screws holding tub dampening straps (4)5/16" head from agitation drum housing from top, removed other end of strap from under side (4) 1/4" head screws. then assembled with new straps in reverse order. easy repair nice and quiet again.

First i noticed a small leak coming from the pump assembly dripping onto the motor/pump bracket with indications that it had been doing this for some time.Looking @ this i then took the pump/motor assembly off cleaning the inlet and outlet of pump off so i could plug one side of the pump while blowing into the inlet side of the pump verifying that the gaskets around the pump assembly was in fact leaking.Replacement was very easy.Purchased a new pump/motor assembly from parts select and received it in three days.Used a flat tip screw driver to press on top front clips pulled away from front of washer then up and off.The pump/motor assembly only has two screws holding it down then i pulled off the electrical connector after that used channel locks to remove both inlet and outlet hoses off pump.Installed new. very easy

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.