WHDSR315D2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

First I removed the old part (2 screws)
Pulled off 4 wires (maybe the wrong word, I'm not a professional!
Put the new part in-turned the water on and had a stream of HOT water-yay
I had been putting this off because no one in my family had noticed (except me) and with my husband out of work it seemed like a low priority, but when my daughters came home for Christmas, they said "There's no hot water in the washing machine" so I took the plunge--I cannot believe I waited that long!
It literally took me seven minutes!

Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid
Disconnected power from wall
Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor
Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose
Removed top lifts off easliy
With help released Washing drum assy from hangers
Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine
Pulled agatator up and off of hub
Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket
Pull off cap
Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut
Removed inner washing drum
Turned over Entire Assy (motor up)
Removed belt (slid off)
Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum
Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out
Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy.
There were service instruction under the front control panel.

When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.

I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!

I remove three screws on top of the washer, moved the cover of the machine in order to get access to the water valve, and then desconnected the two solenoid of the valve,and removed two screws that hold the valve with the frame and installed the new valve in same order a took the old one.

Tipped washer over on to the front side. Removed back panel. Removed the flex coupling to the water pump. Removed the old belt. Installed the new belt and reversed the process to put components back together.

Just followed your instructions,which were very good and simple.Took old one off then put the Knob Dial on and it clicked right on..Very,Very easy

Most washers I looked at do not use a start capacitor but my model did and after testing the capacitor it showed open and was slightly deformed. If you have a this problem the capacitor is located behind the front panel about half way up on the right side zip tied to the side of the washer. It is always good to check the capacitor before spending big bucks for a motor you may not need.

After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.

I replaced the old knob with a new one.

Only took 2 days to ship. Took the screws out of the bottom rear panel to gain access to bottom of tub. Next pushed the two hidden tabs with flat screwdriver in the front to gain access to the top of tub, they are located straight inline with each side of the washer lid in seam between the top panel and the front side panel of washer. Then installed the new suspension rod and reassembled. You can find online videos that show how to disassemble appliances if you're not sure how to get them apart for repair. My first appliance repair was easy to do and saved a lot of $$$ vs paying for repair or purchasing a new unit.

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Reviewed your website for problem symptoms for top loading washers not agitating and possible solutions. Purchased the lid switch wiring harness. All I needed was a painters 1" putty knife, wire cutters, Philips head screwdriver, (2) electrical connectors (crimping type), crimping tool, and electrical tape. Very easy installation and problem was solved. Recommendation, the wiring harness should come with electrical connectors (crimping type). The installation video on your website was a big plus in making this small project a success

Drain tub. remove 2 hose clamps and hoses. R&R 2 screws that hold pump.

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.