WDSR2080DC General Electric Washer - Instructions

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

I bought 3 parts for I didn't know what I need so I listen to the companies video twice.
I popped off the agitator which was easy. then had a little trouble with getting the screw/nut out it was rusty. Finally got that off then I worked backwards and I found I didn't need all the parts which I sent back with no problems. My machine works as good as new ,it has stopped making noise. I am really proud I did this by myself and didn't need my husbands help,

I also spent less than 12.00 to fix and a new one is over 600.00.

Thank You
Christine brooks

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

Problem was intermittent. It would happen once a month or so. Eventually I set next to the machine and kept turning it On and OFF through cycles for about a half an hour until it failed and I was able to confirm that problem was with the water valve.

Buying and replacing the water valve was easy.

WARNING: UNPLUG THE WASHING MACHINE FROM THE WALL BEFORE ATEMPTING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON YOUR WASHING MACHINE!

Our GE washer stopped agitating. We bought us a Whirlpool Cabrio washer with auto-sensing and an impeller instead of an agitator. My wife couldn't get used to washing clothes with so little water. We found out about PartSelect.com and ordered the part they indicated would probably fix our GE washer ($5.86) - the Agitator Coupling Kit. Ordered it on Friday, received it by Fed Ex the following Tuesday. It was an easy installation. Our GE is working fine. Took the Whirlpool back to the store, got our $637.00 back.I plan to use PartSelect.com again,if I need to. We don't like the new type washers as well as our 7-1/2 year old GE.

We pulled off the bottom cover to access the pump. The washer was on its back and that made it easier to reach. There was two hose clamps to pull off along with the two electrical parts. Very easy to replace.

Popped off the front of the washer, removed old pump by disconnecting 2 hoses, 2 screws and power. Pump new pump in, reconnected everything. Done. Quite possibly the easiest repair ever!

Put the drain hose clip on (it will take squeezing but the hose will pass through). There will be a groove that whose width spacing is similar to the clip. Once that's on, insert hose and screw in the clip.

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

First I removed the screws that held the drain hose clip to the washer. Then I pulled the hose, along with the clip, completely out of the washer. I then took the old hose out of the washer clip and put the new hose in the new clip; I pushed the hose into the washing maching and tightened the hose clip to the maching with the existing screws. Seriously easy, took less than 15 minutes. And I have virtually no handyman skills at all!

Unplug the washing machine. There are electrical components that can injure or kill you. Using a screw driver inserted just below the lid of the washer in the front, there are two (2) spring clips that you push on to release. Then the front of the washer tilts down and you remove it and set aside.
On the bottom right you will see the flexible, convoluted rubber hose connecting from the pump to the washer tub. Two (2) clamps hold the hose on. Remove the two clamps, install the new hose and re-install the clamps. Re-install the front panel and push into place, allowing clips to lock into the front panel.

replaced them & working fine now....

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.