WBSR300FW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Part Select inclusion of parts diagram helped determine which part was broken, and how to disassemble just what was necessary. I was planning to open up the control panel to get inside, which was not necessary. Assembly was simple for the same reason. Sometimes, it does help to read the "manual" first....

I took the control knob off and saw the teeth broken and got on line and ordered the part. It was an easy fix.

Popped the front off the washer by placing a towel under the screwdriver to prevent chipping the paint. Had to spent almost 45 minutes soaking up water that had leaked from pump. Must have been leaking for some time before enough leaked under washer and became visible, because there was a lot of rust build up. (1).Removed old pump by first un-pluging washer and them removing (2) connecting wires from pump. (3).Next use nut driver to loosen flex hose from washer. (not from pump). Loosen spring clamp from discharge hose , and slide up. (4) Using nut driver I removed (2) hex screws that held pump to frame, then removed pump and motor assembly. (5). Mopped up water with large (old) bath towels (6). Used hair dryer to dry area. (7). Used wire brush to brush away surface rust. then used small shop vacuum to remove this surface rust. (8). Used small brush to paint white rust-olem paint on rusted areas, used hair dryer again to help paint to dry, then gave it a second coat and again helped it dry. (9). I then removed flex hose from old pump assembly, checked it for cracks and finding none I attached it to new pump with existing spring clamp. (10). I then put pump assembly back inside washer, but did not attach with hex screws yet. (11). Re-attached the drain hose by sliding the spring clamp back down, making sure it is around the hose and discharge spout. (12). Reattach the flex hose to washer discharge spout. (13). Screw new pump and motor assembly unto newly painted frame. (14). Re-attach (2) wires to pump and motor assembly. (15). Plug washer back in and try filling it with some water, letting it go into the drain cycle to check for leaks. NOTE: You don't have to go through and entire wash cycle. Just use the dial to put some water in then move it to drain and /or spin to get the new pump and motor assembly going. I did this a couple of times and then did an entire load of clothes to ensure there were no leaks. After I was sure there were no leaks, I simply popped the front panel back on. My part cost a total of $64.00 including shipping, and it took me about 1 hour of my time. I checked with my local GE dealer and his cost would have been $98.00 for the part, and $85.00 for labor for a total of $183.00. I AM VERY HAPPY. Oh bye the way I had my part within 3 days of the order and that was with regular shipping. I will always use Parts Select from now on.

Unplugged washer. Removed four screws on the top panel, unplugged and removed old water level pressure switch (which was visually broken), replaced with new part, put the top panel back on, re-connected power, and tested to make sure that the washer would now fill to Extra-Large. Worked!

1) Disconnect power
2)remove front panel
3) remove screws and take hoses off
4) remove & replace water pump
:) YAY. all done

Removed the old part put it in the trash, installed the new part. Very easy repair to make.

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.

Two visits by ge repair techs failed to clearly identify the problem. After observing many fill ups, I decided the problem was an intermittant failure of the pressure fill switch. Ge wanted $80 for the service call plus $200 to replace switch, and recommended we buy a new washer for about $400! For $ 32 partselect shipped a new ge pressure switch in about 3 days! Openning up the top control panel required removing 4 sheet metal screws with 6 point star heads. The t-15/t-20 star driver was available at ace hardware for under $2. Removing the old pressure switch and installing the new switch was described in the ge service sheet that came with the washer (very easy). I installed the part and solved the problem; the machine runs like new!

Replaced lid switch with wire harness. Video available on this web page. The technician said bad motor. We counted the flashes, light on top of motor, was 7 times. Diagnoses are very important, save you money! Do it more times, be sure. Biggest problem is socket size for the screws, size 6,5mm or 1/4 inch. Do not call technician or throw away your washer!...

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.

First, I removed the four screws to expose the control panel. Then I removed both of the wiring connections on the switch, unscrewed the two screws holding the switch, and removed it carefully. Take the time to look at the old switch because it does not simply lift off the panel. It has a sliding lock to keep it in place on the panel and you must be careful when you remove it or install a replacement. The new switch installed easily, so I reconnected the power and started the washer. Bingo!

I removed the front cover, then unscrewed the top to expose the top. There are two screws that hold each strap, which turns out are different sizes, so I had to use two different sockets. I also had to remove the hose & plastic tube for the bleach. Once that was done, the replacement was easy, I replaced all 4 straps, reconnected the tube for the bleach, screwed the top back on and snapped the front cover into place. This took maybe 30 minutes - and I am female!

After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.

Reviewed your website for problem symptoms for top loading washers not agitating and possible solutions. Purchased the lid switch wiring harness. All I needed was a painters 1" putty knife, wire cutters, Philips head screwdriver, (2) electrical connectors (crimping type), crimping tool, and electrical tape. Very easy installation and problem was solved. Recommendation, the wiring harness should come with electrical connectors (crimping type). The installation video on your website was a big plus in making this small project a success