LAFW7000LW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

with a code it gave me i was able to determeine it was the door lock switch it was so easy it was unbelievable

Followed your instruction,simply removed the top cover and the two screws on the door to remove the switch assembly. Unplug old part and replaced with the new one after pluging three wires. I saved $105.00, which was the quote from a repair shop. Thank You for your great service and directions; the part arrived a day after I had ordered, did not pay extra for special delivery.

Unscrew broken door latch and re-screw new one in.

Washing machine would wash but during spin out phase would just rotate a couple times and then stop never entering fast spin phase. Read about the same problem on this site and decided to order the locking mechanism replacement. Took off back two screws to top of the machine, took out two screws to locking mechanism in door, removed and unplugged old mechanism, plugged in new mechanism and replaced all screws and top. Washer works perfectly. Easy fix, took less than 15 minutes.

I unscrewed the old one and screwed the new one in. It was that easy and took me 5 min. Thank you Part Select!

Ok, so I went to wash clothes and my Frigidaire Affinity wouldn't come on because it said the door wasn't locked. The switch had gone out. I researched it and bought it here. When we got it, I looked up a video on Youtube that was less than 2 minutes long. My husband and I watched it and then did the repair! It took us only a few minutes and then the washer worked! We saved time and at least $150! And it was so easy to do that I probably could have done it without my husband, and I'm not the handy type.

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

After searching the internet, I found out that the error code flashing on my front loading washer was an easy DIY fix. I went into our local big box home improvement store who told me to go to their online store for the part I needed. I did but had zero luck. I found the part I needed here and found a great video online which walked me through the repair. The part arrived and it took less than 10-mins to be done and have a working washer again. Thanks for the great service! From a working mom in NC

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

I found this wonderful web site, after removing the cover and running a diagnostic to find it was either the door lock or the TCP control board. Control board unable to find any information on was scared to call the repair man as they usually cost about $500.00. I am a single mother and order the door lock and just like that I was able to repair it myself. Thanks you so much!!!

Turned off electricity. Unscrewed top panel. Took off top panel. opened door. Unscrewed door lock. Pulled lock up. Unplugged connections. Plugged in new part, positioned, and screwed in. Replaced top panel

Wow - that was quite the project. The directions that come with it are not the most clear. First of all, when it is time to pull the bellows and spring off, just plan on pulling as hard as possible. I used some Channel Locks to grab the bellows, as my hands just couldn't hold on. Two people would make it easier. The toughest part is getting the spring back on. My advice is to remove the yellow tubes from the black spacers and just use the black part.

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

I unscrewed the two screws and replaced with new door striker and used the same two screws I took out. It took me seriously less than 2 minutes and I am a woman!

Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!