FAFS4474LR0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

removed top of washer then removed the screws that held the lock in place. only hard part was the lack of room to slide my hand down to get the lock from inside the washer,and put the new one in. managed to find a tech sheet in the washer to put the washer in a "service mode" that is where i could make the washer do a final spin.but it still gave me a code that the door lock was not working properly.(even though it still locked)replaced the lock with a new one and the code disappeared and did a full final spin.. thanks guys

The end of the door strike had broken off in the lock. The door strike itself went on in just a few minutes. The time consuming part was getting the piece that had broken off out. After trying with tweezers to get it out, we took the lock off the machine and finally got it out. So....if the door strike looks damaged or isn't shutting properly, replace it before it breaks off inside the lock. We were pleased with how quickly it came. We ordered it Sunday evening and it came Tuesday morning.

The door assembly did not fix the problem this time, it was the control panel that had to be replaced. I have replaced the door assembly in the past, and I am glad I have a spare on hand. They do go out over time from the pressure of large batches of clothes. I am "no repair man", but having someone come out to replace it for you is a $300.00 job, easily. Read the tech info for your error code and go from there.

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!

with a code it gave me i was able to determeine it was the door lock switch it was so easy it was unbelievable

Take a deep breath and say, "I can do this. I will not pay well over $100 for someone else to come and do it."! Identifying part easy, mail very quick, web instructions clear, took out two screws, slipped out old part, put in new one, replace screws. I loved every minute of it and it cost $16.20 (part and shipping). Thanks, Part Select!

Removed two screws on the back of the washer top to release the top on the washer. Slid the top off and removed it. Opened washer door and removed two screws securing the door lock assembly to the washer frame. Reached in from the top of the washer to get the door lock assembly. Unplugged the old door lock assembly in three places and plugged the new assembly in in the same three places. Placed the new assembly in the same place as the old one and secured it to the washer frame with the same two screws located on the inside of the door. Replaced washer top and secured two screws at the top back edge of the washer... Tried the spin mode and everything worked great!!!

Removed retaining band around door boot and prized-off boot on left side to access door lock - simple screw driver replacement job. Deleted last error code. BUT - washer worked again for several days, and now code E43 is back and won't spin - problem is intermittent - so suspect it is NOT the door lock, but a wiring or control board problem. Ongoing.

First we took the pump off and it was full so we hoped replacing it as the fan blades were broke and it didn't help. We replaced the control board and that didn't change it either. So I checked here and the door strike and door switch could be the problem so I ordered and put them on that was the problem. Thanks so much. Instructions were well printed and the job was about 5 minutes to replace. The washer works perfectly. We should have started with these parts first and it may not have cost so much.

1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.

Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!

I unscrewed the two screws and replaced with new door striker and used the same two screws I took out. It took me seriously less than 2 minutes and I am a woman!