FAFW4011LW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing for this front loading washer. The Outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge joint, leaving only the lower hinge joint to keep the door mounted onto the washer. Initially, I was unable to remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. (When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor.) Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off of just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. My washer is now working great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

The end of the door strike had broken off in the lock. The door strike itself went on in just a few minutes. The time consuming part was getting the piece that had broken off out. After trying with tweezers to get it out, we took the lock off the machine and finally got it out. So....if the door strike looks damaged or isn't shutting properly, replace it before it breaks off inside the lock. We were pleased with how quickly it came. We ordered it Sunday evening and it came Tuesday morning.

with a code it gave me i was able to determeine it was the door lock switch it was so easy it was unbelievable

First I watched a youtube video on how to do it. Then I took to machine apart and was able to replace the boot in a short period of time. You have to be careful when putting it on so the guides in the rubber line up with the pipes. It is a good idea to check the filter every few years because it does collect lint and strings that will clog the drain and cause the machine to leak or drain slowly.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

Wow - that was quite the project. The directions that come with it are not the most clear. First of all, when it is time to pull the bellows and spring off, just plan on pulling as hard as possible. I used some Channel Locks to grab the bellows, as my hands just couldn't hold on. Two people would make it easier. The toughest part is getting the spring back on. My advice is to remove the yellow tubes from the black spacers and just use the black part.

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

Thank you.

The front loading washer door was wobbely so I took it apart as per wife request. Hinge looked fine, bushings were fine so I started to put it back together... then the glass slipped out and to the ground. Take the time to remove the door hinge and assemble on a flat surface, then place the whole assemble back on the washer machine. Don't try to take door apart while still attached to machine. Try it you will understand and then you will be buying a new glass front.

I am a 64 year old female that had never attempted to fix anything. This was my 1st attempt at fixing something. It took longer to look for phillips screwdriver than it took took to repair it. Thank you so much for instructions.

Simple removed the screws from the door, did this the night I broke the glass. Gently pryed the inside of the door apart from the front of the door panel. Lined up the arrows on the edge of the new glass panel with the inside of the front door panel and placed the inside plastic door panel back on, to hold the glass panel in place. Replaced screws. Everything worked great! Easy, affordable fix!!

Using a youtube video, (which might have actually been related to parts select), the door lock replacement went smoothly AFTER I couldn't SEE the SPRING around the rubber boot, as the spring was the SAME color and with a little bit of dust on it, was indistinguishable. As soon as I found it, the rest was fairly simple. I MIGHT even try replacing the moldy boot on these stupid front loaders...I paid for overnight shipping as I also had Geek squad guys on hold for repair, and needed to know fast, whether or not this would do the trick. HOORAY!

Remove the 2 screws on the rear of the top panel. Open door and remove the 2 screws holding the latch assembly. Reach down and pull up latch. Remove the 3 wire connectors. Plug wire into new latch and re-install in reverse order.

Replacing the door strike is very easy. Two screws. The broken pieces stay in the door lock/switch assembly. The first time I got them out with needle nose pliers. A year later it happened again and this time I had to replace the lock/switch assembly. I followed procedure others mention here: Two screws at back of washer release the top. Slide that back. Then undo the two screws in the front of the assembly and lift it out, and replace. The important thing is that the door on the washer no longer aligns with the door lock/switch assembly, so we have to carefully (!) lift it to shut it. Do not slam. The issue with the door arises because instructions say to keep the door open so that mold does not grow in the basin. But the hinge on the door is not strong enough to support the door as it stands open when at rest over the years and it has begun to give way. This washer needs a new and stronger hinge. Meanwhile, do not slam your door. Shut it gently, lift if necessary, even on a new machine!