FAFW4011LW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Cindy from Sacramento, CA
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The Part was very difficult to reach from the top.
There was not a video available on your site so I went to U-Tube and found one. Instead of reaching the part from the top I took off the rubber boot from the front and it was so much easier. Once I found and watched the video the entire repair took about 15 minutes. Now the washer works like new!!
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- Customer:
- Elizabeth from Santa Fe, NM
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Not that easy
Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Santa Fe, NM
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Pump runs but washer will not spin
Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.
Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.
This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.
IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.
When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.
The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.
The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)
1 2 3 4 5 6
Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.
Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.
Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.
Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.
Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.
This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.
IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.
When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.
The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.
The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)
1 2 3 4 5 6
Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.
Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.
Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.
Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.
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The boot got a hole in it and needed to be cleaned out.
First I watched a youtube video on how to do it. Then I took to machine apart and was able to replace the boot in a short period of time. You have to be careful when putting it on so the guides in the rubber line up with the pipes. It is a good idea to check the filter every few years because it does collect lint and strings that will clog the drain and cause the machine to leak or drain slowly.
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- Customer:
- JaNann R from Claremont, SD
- Parts Used:
- 134366400
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washed a pliers in the pocket of my pants, and shattered the inside glass of the door panel.
Simple removed the screws from the door, did this the night I broke the glass. Gently pryed the inside of the door apart from the front of the door panel. Lined up the arrows on the edge of the new glass panel with the inside of the front door panel and placed the inside plastic door panel back on, to hold the glass panel in place. Replaced screws. Everything worked great! Easy, affordable fix!!
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- Customer:
- Janet from Charleston, SC
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door strike broke off, washer would not run
Unscrewed two phillips head screws, removed damaged part, screwed on replacement part. Presto! Washer works again. I especially appreciated receiving the part less than 48 hours after I ordered it with only regular shipping charge.
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- Customer:
- Yzelda from Rio Grande City, TX
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door strike broke
I am a 64 year old female that had never attempted to fix anything. This was my 1st attempt at fixing something. It took longer to look for phillips screwdriver than it took took to repair it. Thank you so much for instructions.
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- Customer:
- Stanley from Centuria, WI
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door would not latch and washer failed to start
Remove the 2 screws on the rear of the top panel. Open door and remove the 2 screws holding the latch assembly. Reach down and pull up latch. Remove the 3 wire connectors. Plug wire into new latch and re-install in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- Phil from sun lakes, AZ
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
door wouldnt stay locked during cycle
took the top off removed the old one and put in the new one.Works great!!
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- Customer:
- John from Fullerton, CA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Nylon door latch broke off. Poor design. The hinges on the Affinity washer and dryer have hinges that won't keep the latches aligned, so the strike hit the body and broke off.
Repair was easy. Two screws held it on. It's set into the door, so there is no adjustment. However, I should have bought a couple of extra ones, because the design problem is still inherent, and it will break the next time somebody is in a hurry and "slams" the door, or pulls it open before the cycle is completed. The ten pound door is held by a stike less than 1/8" thick.
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- Customer:
- Jim from Dyersburg, TN
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Would not go into spin cycle
Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.
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- Customer:
- SCOTT from SALINE, MI
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door lock mechanism broke and washer would not run
You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!
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- Customer:
- Janet from Boise, ID
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
plastic end of strike broken
I didn't have the right tool, so asked my handyman neighbor to come do a few projects and he had the driver in his pocket screw driver. it is a tip that is included in many multi-tip drivers. two screws removed the old and replaced the new. cheaper than local parts place, and no repair man. thanks
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- Customer:
- Brian from Brillion, WI
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer would not go into spin cycle
1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.
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machine would not cycle and would not drain
I read other problems, I jumped the gun and purchased the door switch, this was easy to change, but MY machine still had the same issues, however, I found that the filter was plugged, and after I cleaned this out, this fixed my issues and the machine works fine, So I now have a door switch and striker should mine go bad, Hope this helps out
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