FAFW4011LW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

unscrewed the 2screws from the striker on the washer door first. Then put screwed new striker on door with its new screws. It was a piece of cake.

Washer error code said control board($200.) but this web site said Door Lock and Switch assembly($80). Web site was correct, thankyou for saving me money and time for the real repair needed.

ordered the part and got the part in three day. A no hassle experience. Installed the latch and eureka! Fixed!

Nothing to it rteall. The great thing was how fast this company got the part to me!

Unscrew the the bad part, screw on the new part

with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.

put new part did reset on main controles

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!

The end of the door strike had broken off in the lock. The door strike itself went on in just a few minutes. The time consuming part was getting the piece that had broken off out. After trying with tweezers to get it out, we took the lock off the machine and finally got it out. So....if the door strike looks damaged or isn't shutting properly, replace it before it breaks off inside the lock. We were pleased with how quickly it came. We ordered it Sunday evening and it came Tuesday morning.

There was not a video available on your site so I went to U-Tube and found one. Instead of reaching the part from the top I took off the rubber boot from the front and it was so much easier. Once I found and watched the video the entire repair took about 15 minutes. Now the washer works like new!!

Installed New shock absorbers and new door strike. The existing broken shock absorbers caused the drum to oscillate and pull wires from door lock switch.

Wow - that was quite the project. The directions that come with it are not the most clear. First of all, when it is time to pull the bellows and spring off, just plan on pulling as hard as possible. I used some Channel Locks to grab the bellows, as my hands just couldn't hold on. Two people would make it easier. The toughest part is getting the spring back on. My advice is to remove the yellow tubes from the black spacers and just use the black part.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing for this front loading washer. The Outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge joint, leaving only the lower hinge joint to keep the door mounted onto the washer. Initially, I was unable to remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. (When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor.) Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off of just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. My washer is now working great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.