FWT865RHQ0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.

Ran diagnostic and discovered that the panel did not recognize that the door was locked, thus no spin. I ordered both parts, although I didn't need the door strike/catch. I only needed the locking mechanism. I removed metal ring from around the rubber piece inside the door with needle nose pliers, and then I simply plugged in the new lock and screwed it in place. I put the ring back around the rubber piece, flipped the circuit back on and washed a load of clothes. Easy as pie! Teachers can do anything. Who needs a repair man? :)

Vibration/Shock: remove front cover, to remove the shocks depress the tab on the locking pins and push out. Install new shocks and pin in reverse order.

Pump: Disconect power, remove front cover, slowly remove clamp from discharge side of pump and use a sponge or rag to collect water. About one pint will remain in the upper hose. Remove the upper hose after draining. Unplug the power supply to the pump and remove two screws securing the pump to the floor of the washer. Install the new pump and conect wire and hoses.

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Once I figured out that the shocks were broken it was very easy to fix. Remove back panel first. Then remove the control box on bottom left corner to gain access to the left shock. Pinch the locking mechanism on the plastic locker bolts and remove the four bolts from both shocks. Replace with new shocks and replace control box and back panel. It probably took more time moving the washer to where I could work on it then it did to fix it. Works like new.

The previous posts made it dead easy - remove screws at the back holding top in place; slide top back; remove screws holding door latch assembly; disconnect three plugs, and connect new part. Replace fastenings, done! Throw up hands and wait for the official time;)

The illustarated parts break down on the Part select web site was an awesome resource. It identified the exact part that was damaged by part number and comprehensive drawing. The part was ordered utilizing the drawings and on my doorstep within two working days, regular ground shipping. The securing pins were removed from the damaged shock absorber by driving them out with a screw driver (used in place of a drift punch) and a rubber mallet. The new shock absorber was placed in position and the securing pins were installed easily by hand and were securely in place when an auditable click was heard from the securing pin when fully engaged. The shock absorber kit came with an additional securing pin in case one of the original pins were damaged. The replacement part was of superior quality to the original.

I unplugged the washer. Then I unscrewed the two screws on the back, top edge of the washer. and lifted the top off. Next I unscrewed the door lock/switch assembly, reached down in the machine from the top and pulled the switch out. As I unplugged each one of the three plugs from the bad part, I plugged them into the corresponding connections of the good part. Then I screwed the switch back into place, replaced the top of the washer and screwed it back on. I set the washer spin and cheered madly when it went into spin mode. The hardest part was actually turning the screws because I'm a small woman and my hand strength is not what it used to be. But really there was nothing difficult about this repair.

Unscrewed two screws, replaced door striker and screwed the same two screws back in! I was done in less than 3 minutes!

Use a cup to take the water out of the washer. Get at least three large towels -- you're going to have to sop up the water when you disconnect the hoses.

Take the bottom panel off (2 Phillips head screws). Drain pump is on the right side.

Remove the two screws holding the pump to the metal bottom plate. Use a small socket wrench and/or a screwdriver. I had to use a screwdriver on the right screw and a socket wrench on the left screw! Place as many towels in the cavity as you can to catch the water that's going to come out when you detach the hoses.

There is an inlet hose and an outlet hose, attached with bright green clamps. Remove those with pliers. Clean up the water that drains out. The hose in the back (inlet) has a "coin catcher" area. Clean this out.

Attach the hoses to the new pump. Screw it down. Replace the bottom panel.

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the lid off. You simply remove two screws from the back of the lid and jerk and slide the lid towards the back of the machine. Take out the screws that hold the front panel on, tilt the front out and access the lock/switch assembly and replace.

Using a cordless drill and driver bit I removed the back cover, bottom front cover and top. I then removed the rubber bellowed hose connecting the soap dispenser to the rubber boot in front. This one was tricky to reinstall because the fastener for the hose is twisted steel wire that needs to be undone when reinstalling. It slid off easily enough but would not slide back on easily. There is a second small bellowed hose that connects the dispenser to the outer drum casing. This needs to be removed as well. It comes off easily and went back on easily. I used a one sided razor to cut the glue dots connecting the front boot to the washer door frame. After that I removed the belt from the motor and drum pulley by hand and then removed the motor mounting bolts using a ratchet and socket. This went smoothly. I now propped up the drum using 4x4 cutoff blocks to take the weight off the springs and shocks. I then removed to the lower upper plastic pins that hold the shock onto the plastic spin drum casing. I used a wooded block and a hammer to tap the pins out. Be sure to push in the lock on the tapered end of pin shaft. The second pin was a little more difficult to remove and required quite a bit of tapping to push it all the way through. I tried adjusting the weight on the shocks several times to make it easier to come out. The pin was slightly damaged by the time I got it out from hitting it. It went back in OK so I don't think the damage will cause any problems. Next I got someone to help lift the drum to release the weight on the springs and removed then from the top end. You need to remove the spring clamps that hold the spring down at the top end. I used a wrench to remove the bolt that holds the pullet on the drum shaft. The pulley was easy to pry off shaft by placing two flat screw drivers between the shaft and the bearing casing and twisting the screw drivers. Once the pulley was removed I turned the spin drum casing upside down and supported the outer casing with two stacks of 4x4 cutoff blocks. This would allow the stainless steel drum to be supported above the floor and drop freely as the shaft worked it way out of the bearing casing. Getting the drum shaft out of the outer housing bearing was the most difficult part of this whole process. The shaft was rusty and therefore did not easily slide through the two bearing casings. Before hitting the drum shaft to remove it from the bearing casing I put the washer and bolt back on the shaft to protect the shaft from hammer/mallet damage. I tried a mallet but it only moved the shaft part way and then it wouldn't slide further. I then used a 1/2" steel pipe cutoff as a punch seated around the pulley bolt to alloy me to use a hammer to beat the shaft out of the bearing casing. It required a tremendous amount of force to move the shaft. Once the shaft was removed from the old drum casing I spent some time cleaning the back of the stainless steel drum including using emery cloth to remove the rust from the shaft and polish it the best I could. Be sure not to damage the brass bushing that the rubber bearing seal rides on to prevent water leakage. Once the drum and shaft were cleaned up the reassembly process when smoothly I simply reassembled the washer in the reverse order or the disassembly. The shaft went into the new bearings snugly which I was pleased to see since the snug fit meant that the water would be sealed in and the drum would spin true. The hardest part was reattaching the large bellowed hose onto the soap dispenser because it require undoing the twisted steel wire clamp and getting it back together in a very tight space. I use a combination of a flat screw driving and a needle nose pliers to wrestle it back together. The finished job resulted in a very quiet smoothly operating washer which we expect will give us another 5 years of service.

Used a shop vac to suck all the water through the drain hose. Removed the bottom front panel held by two screws on bottom and two plastic pins at the top. Removed electric connector on front of pump. Removed two screws holding pump down. Used pliers to move spring clips back so hoses could be removed. Put hoses on new pump and squeezed clamps with pliers to pull them back over the hose connection. The connection on the left was a little bit of a pain due to space limitations. Screwed the new pump down and reconnected the electric plug. Put the bottom cover back on and screwed it into place.

I released the door gasket and unscrewed the unit .Labeled the connections. then reconnected reattached, then put gasket back on. Worked like a charm!

Removed entire tub assembly, replaced bearings and seal in rear outer tub assembly, had spider arms welded by aluminum welder. alot of work ,saved 150.00 on parts by replacing bearings, savings untold hundreds by doing it myself instead of replare man.. BIG JOB. But just plug away and it goes rather smoothly.