CFW7700LW0 Crosley Washer - Instructions

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

Wow - that was quite the project. The directions that come with it are not the most clear. First of all, when it is time to pull the bellows and spring off, just plan on pulling as hard as possible. I used some Channel Locks to grab the bellows, as my hands just couldn't hold on. Two people would make it easier. The toughest part is getting the spring back on. My advice is to remove the yellow tubes from the black spacers and just use the black part.

Installed New shock absorbers and new door strike. The existing broken shock absorbers caused the drum to oscillate and pull wires from door lock switch.

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

I read other problems, I jumped the gun and purchased the door switch, this was easy to change, but MY machine still had the same issues, however, I found that the filter was plugged, and after I cleaned this out, this fixed my issues and the machine works fine, So I now have a door switch and striker should mine go bad, Hope this helps out

Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.

You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!

I didn't have the right tool, so asked my handyman neighbor to come do a few projects and he had the driver in his pocket screw driver. it is a tip that is included in many multi-tip drivers. two screws removed the old and replaced the new. cheaper than local parts place, and no repair man. thanks

Repair was easy. Two screws held it on. It's set into the door, so there is no adjustment. However, I should have bought a couple of extra ones, because the design problem is still inherent, and it will break the next time somebody is in a hurry and "slams" the door, or pulls it open before the cycle is completed. The ten pound door is held by a stike less than 1/8" thick.

1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.

Thank you.

Only two screws and it was done,easy repair

I unscrewed the two screws and replaced with new door striker and used the same two screws I took out. It took me seriously less than 2 minutes and I am a woman!