DLW330RAW Amana Washer - Instructions

I followed the online line advise but I wait to add a few important notes. First, clean and use Loctite (blue works fine) on the four sheet mental screws holding the motor assembly to the internal frame. Next, mark the two capasator wire as they will have also to be removed. You probaby won't find the exact spin belt number on PartSeclect's site. By all means don't guess. Call the 1.888.895.1535 help number. They have all the cross-reference part numbers for the correct length belt.

it was really easy to gain access to the valve, but the part was just a little different then the original. I had to lengthen one wire to make the new valve work. This did take care of the problem when completed.

Place black rubber adapter on the end of the drain hose and stick in the stand pipe drain. That's all.

Needed part. Ordered Part from PartSelect Friday afternoon and figured I'd get it the following week. No big deal. Part arrived at my doorstep next morning before noon. UNBELIEVABLE SERVICE. Not requested, but it was there. So I fixed the machine as soon as I got it. I wish every company had this kind of service. I've already told my friends. It just can't get any easier than this.

pull front cover off of machine, disconnect motor wiring harness. Remove 4 sheet metal screws holding motor / pump assembly to frame. Remove both pump hoses (caution - have towels and a bucket at the ready). Pull unit from machine. turn upside down on bench and replace components. Reverse for installation.

Biggest trick is getting the agitator off. It seems like it is bolted on. I used a piece of braided cotton cord to run under both sides of the agitator and just pulled real hard. It WILL pop off.

Next the old seal will also seem to be attached. The edge is firm but not bolted. A small prybar will help.

Easy repair to do, but it did not fix my problem. I decided to get a new washer rather than go through further disassembly.

To replace the belt:
First, unplug the appliance. No sense in poking and getting zapped.
Remove any water from the tub, if there is some, by running the washer through the end of the rinse cycle. This is the point of extracting water through the water pump.
Remove the bottom, front access panel by taking out the two screws at the bottom and sliding the panel down and out. It is held in place by metal clips at the top. So, it has to "unsnap" at the top.
Next, remove (by pulling out and up to disengage its hook) the left front stabilizer spring from the bottom of the outer tub. Pry it out with a screwdriver blade under the hook enough to release it from its hole in the frame. Once released, slide the hook along the lip of the frame towards the back of the washer and out of the way. Makes it easier to get back in if it is still stretched some. This allows it to be out of the way in order to remove the motor.
Disconnect the hoses attached to the discharge pump. Be sure to have a couple of towels handy for any water left in the lines. Place the towels directly under the hoses before disconnecting. Set the hoses to the side of the washer cabinet.
Loosen and remove the back (when looking at the motor from the front access) two bolts holding the motor support frame to the frame supporting the transmission.
Next, locate and remove the top two bolts holding the motor frame to the tub frame. Be sure to support the motor as the last bolt is removed so that it does not fall down.
Tilt the motor slightly to the left. Locate the wiring harness at the top left side of the motor. There is a plastic clip in the middle and on top of the wiring harness. Push down on the clip as you grasp the harness. This will release the clip's grip at the back of the harness and allow you to pull it out. Set the harness back behind one of the nearby tension springs to keep it out of the way.
Once the harness and bolts are removed, tilt the bottom of the motor towards you and pull down and out to clear the outer tub frame.
With the motor out, fiip it over and locate the three screws holding the pump in place. Using a #25 torx head screwdriver, remove the screws. The pump will now separate from motor. Visually check that the pump does not have an obstruction. Manual check by spinning the pump by hand. It should move freely.
Before installing the spin belt, clean the motor pulley of any residue.
Remove and replace the idler arm spring. Leave the spring attached to the arm only. Do not reattach it to its anchor point on the motor frame.
Install the spin belt, making sure that the belt is on either side of the pump's rear leg. (Rear leg being the leg 90 degrees counterclockwise to the pump outlet port.) Be sure that the idler arm pulley is able to apply pressure to the belt.
Reverse steps to put the pump, motor and springs back in place. Be sure to plug in the wiring harness before the motor is place back into position.
Tip: Leave the idler spring off until after the spin pulley is wound onto the helix pulley. You can reach around the motor from the right side and grasp the pulley. Spinning it slowly as you feed the belt will make it easier to get it back on.
Last, plug in the machine and give a Tim Allen ARH, ARH, ARH, Ugh?

removed hoses from pump, removed 4 screws holding motor housing to washer, disconnected wiring from motor. It will make your life easier to re-assemble if you pay attention to how belt is located in relation to the legs of the pump. pump came off motor very easily. I had the old pump out and the new pump in and working in about 30 minutes.

Sunday night - removed old valve and hose 15 min went online, found & ordered part - 15 min - part showed up Tuesday afternoon, replaced defective valve 15 min - did laundry! Couldn't have been easier or less expensive!

First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ecectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Disconnect power and water, opened up front end by removing four self-tapping screws, removed the electric motor assembly from frame of machine, replace pump and belt and reassembled.

Unpluged electric, diconnected dicharge hose from wall drain, disconnected water lines from rear of washer and at wall hose connection, removed lower front panel, removed large front panel, disconnected hoses at motor(put towels at hoses to catch water leakage)THEN-took washer to the garage and tuned up side down. Removed front two tub springs, removed (4) motor bolts, removed electrical harness from motor, remove and replaced new brake pads. NOTE:brake pads need to be somewhat driven(pushed hard) into brake pad slots. Also it was easier to install the rear pad by removing the 4" knock-out at the side of the washer. Somehow reinstall the knock-out to keep mice and animals from entering the interior of the washer. THEN- reinstall all items in reverse order. Any one mechaniclly minded can replace the brake pad. My wife and I saved lots by doing the replacement myself. THE END. Good job Gary Final note:besure to intall the drive "v" belt around the 2" pulley wheel.Very important.

I called Lucky Buy when I realized it was more than the drain hose.
I asked if they would install for the same $55 if I got the parts online for less than their price & they said yes.
Once the parts came, they came back (Initial call was $20) for the $55 part replacement call.
At one point he said he had to leave & came back in 20 mins with the pump sawed off (into pieces - it was frozen on the base!)...
He also installed a new belt (Also ordered here for less than their quote!) +
I got braided steel hoses and (3) sets of screens (I'll start changing them annually!) ~
The washer now fills AT LEAST 4x as quickly with new hoses & screens!
The clothing comes out MUCH LESS DAMP with the new belt!
+ it is FAR QUIETER with the new belt!
We're in HEAVEN over here! :-)
ONE THING:
One that first load after the repair, I noticed the water level (Set, as always, to XL) was over halfway UP the side of the agitator's fabric softner dispenser, but thought MAYBE I was "misremembering", but nooo, I don't think I was because LOTS of water spilled out the MIDDLE FRONT BOTTOM once it did the cycle...
(This did not happen when he tested it before leaving - on the SMALL cycle (Which we NEVER use)...
SO!
QUICK FIX:
We set the water level to "LARGE" and all's been fine ever since! :-)
Anyone know whick part we need for the water to stop UNDER the bottom of the fabric softner, like it used to?

I am VERY PLEASED to have found this site and Lucky Buy - I am _SURE_ I saved WAY OVER $100 total (Parts & Labor) & my 15-year old machine is AS GOOD AS NEW NOW (almost - that leak's got to GO! :-)

removed the front of the washer, removed the motor and pump. Reinstall new pump.