P75751-1W Amana Washer - Instructions

I watched the video suggested by Part Select, it was easy to follow. I had first changed the belts because they were worn but that wasn't the problem, the next suggestion was the lid switch assembly which was the answer. This washer was produced in 1989 and works like new again!

First I took the seals out of the box they came in and let them hang on a hanger to get all the kinks out of them for a few days. Then I started at the corners of the refrigerator doors and peeled the old seals off on one door then replaced the seal by using my thumbs pushing at the corners first and once I had all four corners in I worked my way around the rest of the door, After both doors were done I used a hairdryer to expand the seals against the refrigerator case to make sure it seals tight.

I followed video instructions which were very helpful and getting to the lid switch assembly was not difficult. After putting it on we still had nothing. I noticed there was quite a bit a corrision on the connecters so we cleaned those with fine emery paper, reconnected them and like magic , the washer is back in business. I was very surprised the part arrived about 36 hours after I placed the order and in just a couple of hours at the most we had a working washer again.I've got partselect.com saved in my favorites for any future diy repairs needed.??

had to completely disasemble whole washer drum and mechanical components to remove upper bearing on transmission,the drum hub was corroded on the shaft. I had to use a gear puller and a propane torch to get the hub off upper shaft of the transmission. then press the bearings in the respective sheet metal supports. reassembly was alot easier than taking it apart. Not a job for an average homeowner. It would not have been repaired without the wheel puller. all the seals were reusable A week and a half of use later no leaks and works great

Started with removing 4 screws on the top of the control panel. Once open, I found the schematic taped to the top. I traced the wires and found the 2 wires to test. I unplugged them and attached the jumper wire. Turn on machine and it worked. Ordered the part( it came in in about 3 days. First disconnect the power. The micro switch is mounted with 2 screws, remove these and as you disconnect the wires , attach them to the new switch, put it back in place and reattach the screws. Test .

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

At first, I suspected the timer. In the problem solving section of the Maytag owner's manual, there was a reference to the Lid Check Switch, which was the queue I needed. with the help of the electrical diagram, I located the switch,then hotwired that circuit to confirm to myself that it was the switch that was faulty. Overall an easy fix.

Replaced the switch. No need for me to add detailed instructions for this simple swap. More than enough descriptions are already collected on the excellent website of this outstanding parts supplier!

I guessed that the lid switch was bad based on internet information that suggested that cause of the problem. I confirmed this by disconnecting 2 wires to switch and taping them together to bypass the switch. Wiring diagram was available. Washer worked that way so I ordered a new switch which arrived within 22 hours, regular shipping.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Drained the tank. Pulled the front cover of washer. Pulled the lower cover of dryer. Pulled the top cover of washer. Pulled the mounting case for switch. Pulled the wires to switch. Pulled the switch. Installed switch and reversed the steps in order.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

I'm not a professional repair person, so diagnosis was more difficult than this repair was. A little research online and some smart investigation(and by smart I mean unplugging the washer before taking the access panel off); resulted in a less than $30 repair - compared to what would have been close to a $150 technicians visit and repair! Simply unplug the washer, unscrew the access panel, unscrew the lid check switch, screw in the new switch, put the panel back on, plug the washer in, and start the wash cycle. Seriously, less than 15 minutes!

Iam waiting to install it.when it stop again/it will take me about 5 min.

The 4 countersunk phillips head screws that retain the control panel were removed allowing access to the lid switch assembly. I took a picture of the switch assembly to record wire location with my phone. The one screw that retains the switch assembly was removed after all of it's associated wires were removed. The old switch was removed and the new switch installed. Problem solved.