3RATW3005TQ1 Admiral Washer - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

Ordered part PS3408149 from partselect.com. Lifted Washer control panel with putty knife. Removed hinges (regular screwdriver, used as a crowbar rather than screwdriver) holding control panel to washer body. Moved washer body panel out of the way, and reviewed level sensor/level selector switch. Take handle off front of selector switch. Twist selector switch off from inside (90 degree turn till square inset lines up withsquare hole, then it will come out). Insert new selector switch. Remove old tubing. Fish new tubing through where old tubing was. Cut off extra tubing, then push tubing onto selector switch and tub basin (where old tubing was). Put washer back together. Done. Worked perfectly.

Popped the cap off the agitator (pocket Knife) Look down in the center of the agitator. I saw I needed a 7/16 socket, 6" extention and ratchet. I used 1/4" drive. I took the retaining bolt out and lifted the upper portion of the agitator off of the iower portion and out of the tub. Set the part I took out on the dryer. I pulled the cone shaped part that houses the 4 cogs pieces out of the center of the upper agitator part. Once the coned shaped part was out, turned it upside down and placed it on the closed washing machine lid, then again used my pocket knife to lift the plastic retaining ring that securely holds the 4 cogs in place upward on the cone as to remove and replace the 4 worn out cogs with the new ones purchased in a repair kit. Pay close attention the direction the old cogs are facing, so the new ones go back in the same facing direction. It can be extremely easy to install the new ones backwards. I have to say at this point, I was quite disappointed with the retrofit repair kit I purchased. The new cone part the holds the cogs and goes down into the center of the upper agitator wouldn't allow the bolt that locks the whole agitator to the shaft to line up straight and wanted the bolt to "cross" thread into the main shaft. I took it all apart again and reused the original coned shaped part that came with the machine. I should have purchased just the 4 cogs for considerably less money. Reassembled the cone part and put it back together. Reinstalled the upper agitator in reverse order of removing it. Turned on the washer and it works like it's supposed to once again. Hope this helps the next person.

Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.

This was really easy and the part came in like 2 days. All I needed to do was flipthe washer on its side and remove the old hose...a couple screws and install the new one...it was a perfect match so ...no issue.

Washer is 29 years old. Found that tub spring hooks into a simple (non-reinforced) hole in the base frame, and it had worn the hole through through the edge of the frame (key hole style). Due to age and low cost of parts, ordered all suspension springs, brackets, & pads. Once they arrived, took the tubs out (first time for that), found that the suspension pads looked fine, but the wear pads showed a lot of wear and the front one was snapped in the middle, perhaps an after effect of the spring failure. From my lack of attention, initially tried to get front pad into the wrong set of holes, a bad fit; corrected. Simply drilled a near-by hole in the base frame for the tub spring.

While the tubs were out, took them outside and scrubbed them clean. Also cleaned agitator parts using bottle brushes. Followed the PartSelect videos and owner comments for procedures, methods. Found that some miss some important info, but if you watch others you can combine the info to find what you need re disassembly/assembly.

At one point while attempting to remove the outer tub, did not realize that the screw that holds the rear spring bracket to the tub also holds the tub to the suspension plate.

Took me most of a day for the whole process, and I ended up with pulled/spasmic muscles from all the bending over, mostly from cleaning parts I think. Very helpful to have the parts breakout drawings, videos, others' experience.

Purchased lid trigger elsewhere but got the connector on line here after being told I would need to purchase complete wiring harness to correct. Once lid trigger was in i stripped the three wires that went to lid trigger and pushed thru the back side of the connector. Then I plugged into trigger. Now washer works again. Very easy to do.

Followed the videos on the website. But had to order parts twice because it wasn't the springs it was the plastic bushings the tub sits on that caused the wobble. No big deal though. All told it was still far less expansive than a new machine.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

Using the guidance listed on your website for part #PS3408149, Water Level Pressure Switch, I removed two screws on each side of the rear Control Panel, removed the dial from the front, lifted the panel on the right side from rear, removed the hose and the electrical plug, twisted off the broken part and installed the new one in absolute reverse! Reassembled panel, plugged in unit to electric and performed function check to great satisfaction! (by doing one med load and one super load over next 2 hours)

I followed the online instructions to remove the shell and attempted to remove the drum, but not having the special wrench to remove the special nut, tried using a screwdriver and hammer, which failed to loosen the nut. I then started examining the the undercarriage and saw that I could replace the springs without removing the tub and did that. In the course of replacing the springs I discovered I could also access the wear pads by lifting the drum off of the undercarriage and placing a block to hold it above the pads. I was able to pop the old pads out by tapping underneath them with a hammer. The new pads were then installed and the weight of the drum popped them in. It was necessary to lift the drum assembly three times for each of the three pads.

I tried to remove the outer console to get to the tub wear pads easier. This proved difficult for me for some reason. So I tipped the machine on its back at about a 45 degree angle. You will see the tripod support holding up the tub. The pads lie in between the bottom of the tub and on top of the tripod support . You won't be able to see the pads since the are on the top of the support, but you will see the two insert tabs of each pad sticking out. There are about 120 degrees apart from each other. I pushed up on the tub and slipped the piece of wood in between the tub and tripod support close to the pad. Taking a screwdriver and hammer I punched out the wear pad insert tabs. You can replace the old pad with the new one by using some force with your hands. Some pop right in and some you need to use a little leverage, maybe with the piece of wood you used to hold up the tub. Be careful not to get the pads greasy, keep clean as possible. Worked great.

Unplugged washer. Pulled the washer away from the wall & leaned it back against the wall to access the underneath side of the washer. Disconnected water hoses to the pump with water pump pliers. Have drain pan handy to catch the water, approximately 1 qt. Remember which hose goes to the proper place. Removed two retaining screws/straps allowing the motor to be seperated from the transmission. There is enough slack in the wiring to allow you to drop the motor without disconnecting. You do not need to remove the water pump. Removed old coupling & replaced with the new one. Make sure you use the "new style" replacement coupler or you will be doing this repair again very soon! Schematics are available online.

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago