LNC6766A71 Admiral Washer - Instructions

unscrewed screw holding old actuater in and replaced it whith the new part.

First I lifted the top of the washer to get access to the screws that held the hinges in place, unscrewed them, removed the broken hinges and put the new ones on, replaced the screws and closed the top. It was very easy. I was amazed that I could still get replacement parts and at such a great price, less than $15.00 with shipping!

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

used video provided on repair procedure.

First, I unplugged the washer.

then, I used a small prybar to pop open the front top of the waher. It's hinged at the back top edge. I drew a rough sketch of the four color coded connecting wires so I could disconnect the old water inlet valve and replace it the same way with the new one.
( just in case I lost track of which wire went where.)

I cut off the water supply for both the hot and cold water, (you can also cut off the water main,) then diconnected the supply hoses--noting where the hot water was connected, and where the cold water connected. Maytag had cut out a "C" and
a "H" our of the back wall of the washer,
to assist with hose installation.

I unscrewed the two hex nuts holding the old inlet valve to the back wall of the washer. ( from the outside back of the machine.) and pulled the old inlet valve up to the top of the machine. I didn't remove the basket that holds the laundry, so it was a kind of tight workspace.

Once you reconnect the wires to the new water inlet valve, attach the inlet valve to the washer wall, and reconnect the hoses, it's done. It's pretty simple.

On a scale of 1 to 5 (with 5 being the most difficult), I would rate this a 2 or 3. It is just a matter of knowing how to access the pump. First I unplugged the washer. Then used putty knife to push in clips to lift up top of washer (the clips are located about 1 inch in from each side). Used socket to remove the two screws holding on front panel. Disconnected the two hoses from pump using pliers to squeeze clips (be sure to have cup or bowl handy because water will come out of the hoses). Lifted up washer and removed belt from pump. Used socket wrench to remove pump and replace with new one. Reattached hoses and belt. Reattached front panel and closed the top of the washer. Everything was easy to access.

First i unscrewed the bottom latch to check inside the maching, i then disconected the vertical style pump with pulley from its position and i discoverd a huge crack that was made by a loose pulley. After that i ordered another pulley from this web site easaly installed the pulley and now my maching works like new. The part was less than 50 bucks i saved over 200 bucks by not going out and buying a new machine.

Hving read some of the tips in regards to this repair I set out with equal parts of confidence & apprehension. The advice of shifting the tub toward the hinge to be removed is in itself the key to the whole procedure. After having done so & wedging a dust pan handle between the tub & frame to first one side & then the other, I removed the entire lid with the hinge & hinge pin assys. attached as ther is not sufficient clearance to slide a servicable hinge pin from a hinge when only one hinge has beeen removed. With the lid completely removed access to the hinge pin(s) is straight forward. I suggest screwing & unscrewing the fastening screw into a new hinge assy before mounting the hinge onto the machine & also using an offset philips screwdriver or ,as I did, a 1/4" drv. ratchet with a #2 philips apex bit which allows for a better feel & more control over the upside down blind operation of removing & replacing the fastening screw into the hinge assy. Hope this helps. Tom

took back off washer with nutdriver, pulled wires off by hand, ( was unplugged ). pliars used to remove hose, regular clamp put back on. reinstalled back plugged in, tested water,,,, done

Disconnected the power plug. Turned off the hot & cold hose water supply. Put down old bath towel. Disconneced hoses from machine inlet valve. Opened entire top for access to electrical connections & fill hose. Replaced inlet valve, new wire connectors. Replaced the hot & cold water hoses.

This was my first washing machine repair.

Removed the front panel to get some light in to the machine. Removed the two hoses connecting the pump to the drain and tub. Removed the three screws holding the old pump in place. Did the reverse to install.
This was a piece of cake.
Thanks for having the parts needed to do this job.
Tom

The repair was easy. I had to unscrew on bolt, place the agitator assemply on and screw the bolt back down. Simple , Sear was gonna charge 175.00 just to ship the part. I got the part for $57.00.

Replacing the pump with the new pump was very easy for me, because of my degree in Mechanical engineering, so I am use to dealing with pumps, engines, gears,etc. However, my wife watched me do the entire job and she is now able to replace this part in the future. The design of the Maytag is very simple to repair, and for that I am very greatful that we can order the parts and do the repairs ourselves withhout having to call a repairman. This was our first problem after 6 years of smooth operations by this washer.

First I raised the top and took out the two screws that held the front on. Then I removed the back panel which were held by 4 screws. Then I turned the machine on it side and removed the belt. I then pulled the hose off from the tub to the water pump and the small hose on the back of the tub. I then removed the 6 springs that held the tube to the base and then I picked the tub up and turned it over on the floor. Then I backed off on the screws that held the snubber in place. I pulled the old snubber out, retighten the screws that held the snubber tight. Then I reversed my steps.