AAV7000AGW Admiral Washer - Instructions

Pump is readily accessible at the back of the machine by taking off the access cover. First step is to disconnect power and remove drive belt off tub pulley which is the largest in the center - the takeup is in the drive motor mount but it seems easier to turn the larger pulley and wind the belt off. There are three 3/8 hex mount screws fastening the pump to the washer base and two hose spring clamps attaching the tub drain hose and outlet drain hose to the pump. Follow the directions in the utube video which is the best (most others don't give detailed directions and best method). The only caution I would give is that there is some water in the drain hoses so be prepared to mop it up with sponge and bucket or have some towels available. Install new pump (loose assemble two visible screws to locate pump and then loose assemble far side blind screw and tighten all 3),replace hoses snug to stops and assemble clamps, replace access panel and replace drive belt and plug washer back in.

Unlike most videos, mine had a solid frame, no access panels. Following, is my disassembly & repair: I disconnected the water supply lines and drain hose. I slid the washer out into the center of the garage & removed the 9 base screws from the base plate. I slid the frame away from the base, leaving the working parts exposed. After pulling the working mechanisms from the outer frame, I turned it (drum, transmission & base) upside down. I used a pair of vise grips, pinched them onto each spring & removed them, using a downward motion it was a lot easier. I placed the base plate aside, removed 3 opposing screws holding the snubber ring & put 3 longer 8-32 screws in to hold the brake assembly. Then I removed the 3 remaining screws, lifted the plate & replaced the ring. Then I reversed the process, replacing the old springs with new ones & finished the job in about 2 hours.

Turned off the water supply. Removed clothing and bailed out water fro tub. Removed back access panel. Turned washer over to access the bottom and removed drive belt by turning the large pulley attached the drum while pulling the belt over the pulley. Next remove the two hoses attached to the pump, remove the screws holding the pump on and remove the pump. Replace the pump by reversing the procedure, as for replacing the drive belt, place the belt on the motor and pump first and start it on the larger pulley and hold it on while you turn the pulley, it will pull the motor adjustment as you turn and when fully in the pulley it will be properly adjusted. Then replace the access panel, turn the washer upright, push back in place, turn on the water supply and replace the drain hose. Back in business. For me, while I was waiting for the new pump to arrive, I took the time to remove the agitator and tub and give it a good cleaning inside and out, but that's me.

Remove back compartment, remove belt disconnect two water rubber tubes from the drain pump, unscrew three screws securing the drain pump from the frame. Replace with a new drain pump, secure to frame with thee screws, reconnect rubber tubes, and replace belt.

Hving read some of the tips in regards to this repair I set out with equal parts of confidence & apprehension. The advice of shifting the tub toward the hinge to be removed is in itself the key to the whole procedure. After having done so & wedging a dust pan handle between the tub & frame to first one side & then the other, I removed the entire lid with the hinge & hinge pin assys. attached as ther is not sufficient clearance to slide a servicable hinge pin from a hinge when only one hinge has beeen removed. With the lid completely removed access to the hinge pin(s) is straight forward. I suggest screwing & unscrewing the fastening screw into a new hinge assy before mounting the hinge onto the machine & also using an offset philips screwdriver or ,as I did, a 1/4" drv. ratchet with a #2 philips apex bit which allows for a better feel & more control over the upside down blind operation of removing & replacing the fastening screw into the hinge assy. Hope this helps. Tom

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect

used video provided on repair procedure.

As described in video; however, the video does not match the model I repaired. Most stuff is the same. Hardest thing to do was installing the new springs on the back of the tub (2 of them).

Brought unit out to garage so I would have room to work on it. Popped the top off, removed two screws to remove the front panel, removed back panel also, since there was no way I was going to the trouble of dis-assembly to get to the snubber without changing those 6 springs also - and you HAVE to remove the back cover to access all 6 springs.Removed belt and level and drain hoses- tub came right out. Loosened those 6 screws without removing them and pulled old snubber out- very straight-forward. Spent 10 minutes just comparing the old and new snubbers- I saw that there's a "ridge" around the inside of the new part that is gone on the old snubber. Sprinkled some corn starch at base of unit where the new snubber will fit (Great Idea someone had!) After everything was re-assmbled, I noticed the tub was now nice and tight when I grabbed it to move it. Before, it took no effort AT ALL to move it all around. Did a test load with some laundry the wife had stacked on the drier. Imagine my disappointment when I heard loud knocking inside when it started to agitate, but not while it spun!
Got all my tools back out and took the wet laundry out to take it all apart again- found the wife's heavy glass vase had been hidden in one of the towels. Re-tested- everything works GREAT!So far I've changed the drum seal (hardest) and the waterpump (easiest)- thi springs and snubber was alsmost as easy as the pump.
Above average shipping from Parts Select also- very helpful and efficient people on the phones.

The repair was easy. I had to unscrew on bolt, place the agitator assemply on and screw the bolt back down. Simple , Sear was gonna charge 175.00 just to ship the part. I got the part for $57.00.

After taking the motor off (it looked loose to me!) and stripping out the bolts on it, then finding that the bolts holding the motor were permanently affixed to the motor (and they were an odd size not available at the hardware store), I drilled the bolts out and put in new ones (on the motor) and re-affixed the same. I still had a problem. I then went online and found that most people had problems with the water pump. I looked at the pulley on the water pump and found that the inner shims had slipped out on a permanent part (and could not be put back in with the basic tools I had on hand). I ordered the pump online, and replaced the same. Took about 30 minutes after I found the real problem and got the parts in. My pump had a permanent metal disc on the bottom which did not come with the new pump, but the new pump fit without it. Machine works fine now.

First I raised the top and took out the two screws that held the front on. Then I removed the back panel which were held by 4 screws. Then I turned the machine on it side and removed the belt. I then pulled the hose off from the tub to the water pump and the small hose on the back of the tub. I then removed the 6 springs that held the tube to the base and then I picked the tub up and turned it over on the floor. Then I backed off on the screws that held the snubber in place. I pulled the old snubber out, retighten the screws that held the snubber tight. Then I reversed my steps.

Took off the back plate. Looked to see where it was leaking. Squeezed the clamps on top and bottom to remove from hose and pull hose out.

Removing and installing the pump is theoretically easy, as everyone on this site has said so far. Just remove three hex-shaped screws, loosen drive belt and remove pump, then install new one using the same steps in reverse order. The trick is getting the screws off and on--they do not have slots for a screwdriver and there is not room around them for a socket wrench or pliers. I probable spent over an hour just on removing/replacing these screws and have many bruises to show for it. I ended up attaching a vice grips on the tips of the screws underneath the washing machine and screwing them out that way. And replacing the drive belt was horrifically difficult--that's where the other hour went. The devil was definitely in the details! If anyone had told me what I would have to go through to make this repair, I would have called a repairman. And I am an extremely handy person--I do stuff like repairs all the time, so it is unusual for me to say this. The good news is that the new pump works and the washer is back in commission.

Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos