WETLV27FW0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

First unplug your dryer. Then, I removed the two screws on the lint trap leaving the lint trap in place--do not pull out the lint trap--only remove the two screws. Next, slide the top of the dryer slightly forward in order to release the top of the dryer. I did this with my hands. Once the top of the dryer is released, raise the top of the dryer and unplug the door switch assembly. Then, remove the two screws that hold the switch. These two screws were located on the front panel of my dryer and are visible when you open the dryer door. Remove the old switch and install the new switch by putting the two screws you previously took out from the old switch back in place and plug in the new switch. Lower the dryer top. Push the top back to lock in place. Line up the lint trap holes for the two screws that hold it in place and replace those screws. Plug your dryer back in and it should work properly. Very easy repair. We ordered our part one morning before noon, and it was here the next afternoon with regular shipping. GREAT SERVICE.

Turned off water supply, disconnected hoses so I could lay on its back.( drain hose also ) have something to catch all the water in. There will be some residual water so have something to wipe it up. Removed agitater, then I removed the spanner nut with hammer and punch. layed it on its back, removed the three mounting bolts that hold the gearcase to the tub support. Removed wire harness and ground wire , pulled gearcase and shaft out . Removed spin tube thrust washer, removed support ring from groove in shaft , removed retaining ring , slid clutch off shaft ,installed new clutch. Take care to watch how parts are removed so that they are installed in proper orientation. Since I had it this far apart I decided I should replace the coupling. I removed the two motor retainers , seperated coupling , pulled both halves off shafts , installed new halves , they go on a lttle tight , newer couplings have metal inserts , aligned coupling halves , inserted together , put motor retainers back on , tightened small screws,done.

I took the two screws for the control panel out and tilted it up and back. Then remove the two metal clips which held the outer panel to the back panel. After disconnecting the power and water I tipped the washer on its back. I had to remove two clips to take the water pump off of the motor, then removed the two screws and clips which held in the motor. After removing the motor, I found the coupler was bad. To remove the gearcase, I took out the softener dispenser and removed one bolt to take out the agitator. Under the agitator was a clip. Three bolts held the gearcase to the frame. After removing them, the gearcase pulled straight out the bottom. Replacement was just a reverse process, with the addition of a light coat of grease to the gearcase shaft.

I replaced the clutch and coupler. The clutch was well worn. My wife had washed three or four loads of heavy rugs and we think that was the cause of the premature wear. We now take the rugs to a commercial laundry. The coupler was OK but the new coupler has metal instead of plastic inserts so I decided to replace it while I had it torn apart. The machine is now running like it was new.

0.Disconnect supply hoses and electrical. Refer to the parts breakdown pictures on the PartSelect website. I refer to only the numbers so you may have to match the part to a particular diagram.
1. Remove the agitator by pulling up on the fabric softener dispenser #1. Clean out the excess liquid and "residual gunk". Grab one off the tabs of the plastic cap #23 and pull gently. The plastic cap (~ 3" in dia) is held in place by a rubber O-ring #24. The cap comes out easily exposing the bolt that holds the agitator to the drive shaft. Remove the bolt. and the agitator comes right out.
2. Turn the machine over on its front. You do not need to remove the back panel.
3. Get plenty of rags to soak up the water before you remove the hoses from the water pump #22 on the end of the motor. A quart or more remains in the pump and hoses. Remove the two hoses.
4. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor#29. There is a small plastic "catch" on the bottom of the connector that must be lifted to remove the connector. It's kind of hard to see but it's there and it's part of the connector.
5. Remove the three bolts #10 that hold the gearcase #9 to the bottom of the tub assembly.
6. Remove the gearcase, the drive shaft, the motor, and the water pump as one unit. You will need to lift them a little to get clearance because the tub has settled down. Just lift the tub and all and pull the assembly out. Get them out to a spot where you have room to work on them. The water pump may still have bit of water.
7. Replacing the clutch. Remove the clutch parts from the bag and lay them out where you can see everything. Refer to the instructions in the bag to select the correct spring and to see how the keeper spring is installed. Remove the washer, keeper ring, and clutch assembly, and plastic clip#15 remembering the order and the orientation. Install the new clutch in reverse order.
8. You will have one plastic part #15 left over. It goes on the bottom of the tub after you remove a key ring.
9. Replacing the coupler. note the orientation of the water pump#22 and remove it by removing the two retainers #21. set it aside.
10. Remove the screws#23 and retainer clips#17. Separate the motor#20 from the gearcase#9 to expose the coupler. Replace the coupler, reattach the motor to the gearcase, and the water pump to the motor.
11. The reassembly is pretty much a reverse of the assembly.

Unplug from the wall ,remove upper back panel ( watch out for the grounding wire screwed to the panel), pulled off front knob, then twist and pull the switch out. Unplug the burned out switch, plugged in the new one. Re-assembled what I took apart, plugged her up and dried the load that was in the washer. Note: if yours is burned out due to house power surge make sure the timer is working after you replace the switch, you might need one of thoes too.

Tilted washer onto its back and removed the "cardboard" bottom sound absorption cover (2 sheet metal screws). This provides access to the pump that is located on top of the motor. Slid off each of the 2 clamps that secure the two drain hoses using slip joint pliers. Then popped loose the 2 metal holddown bracket clamps that secure the pump housing to the motor.
The next step gave me a real fit... the pump housing is supposed to just lift off the motor shaft with little effort but mine was a bear. No matter how much I pulled and tugged, it didn't want to budge. Because the motor assembly is mounted on a semi-moveable suspension, when I grabbed the pump and pulled, the whole motor assembly tended to move too. I eventually had to resort to using 2 large flat blade screwdrivers to pry the pump off ... CAUTION!!! Be careful not to put too much force because you can dent the motor shaft grease housing (which I did). Fortunately, I didn't dent it enough to poke a hole in it but it was deformed...
And the reason it didn't want to come off easily was - the shaft had been getting wet which caused some rusting/pitting of the shaft. Although the pump housing is all plastic, the shaft was rusted tight on it. It did come off after much tugging and prying. Otherwise this would be a very easy repair.
Put the new pump in place but it wouldn't go on the shaft until I took some sandpaper and removed as much of the rust as I could. I put a little grease (vaseline) on the motor shaft and pump housing connection to make it easier to slip on. Aligned the motor shaft and pump housing - it is keyed (meaning it only goes on one way due to the shape of the motor shaft). Once keyed on properly, it slid down easily. Reattached the 2 metal holdown brackets and reattached the 2 drain hoses. Replaced the bottom cover.
I did not encounter very much water in the hoses but be advised there can be enough water to get things wet (motor, floor) so you may want to have a small container to get as much water out of the hoses. Also having towels to catch any water remaining in the pump housing so it doesn't end up spilling onto the motor (a bad thing). Of course one has to UNPLUG the electrical cord BEFORE beginning this repair! Also you will most certainly need to shut off the incoming water lines and disconnect the hoses to allow you to move the washer to a position that makes it easy to get to bottom.
That's all I can think of... a simple repair that should go quick if the motor shaft isn't rusted on!
Good Luck...

P.S. I figured the drain pump was leaking AFTER I removed the bottom cover and looked for water evidence here and there. Suspected the pump but couldn't be sure until I set the washer back up normally and ran a cycle. Using a mirror I checked to see where the drips were coming from.

Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

First, I removed two screws holding the bottom fiberboard panel in place, and the panel, to gain access to the motor, transmission, and pump. Unfortunately, I had the machine tilted to the front, and didn't have room to release the pump. I had to set the machine back up, and get manuvered around so I could lay it on it's back (I was working in the confines of a small laundry room). Once on it's back, I released the two clips holding the pump with a flat head screwdriver, lifted it up and out of the way without having to disconnect any of the piping, then I released the two clips holding the motor, again with a flathead screwdriver, disconnected the wiring plugs, and capacitor wires, then lifted the motor up and out of the machine. I then removed the two bolts holding the motor mounting plate to the transmission. Then, again using a large flat head screwdriver, I pried the transmission coupling half off the transmission shaft, I had to work it up, while turning the shaft, and then the same for the motor half. I then wiped off both shafts, and gently tapped both coupling halves back onto the shafts,
( this is easier using a socket that is just large enough to go over the shafts). Then I reinstalled the motor mounting plate, slipped the rubber coupling onto the transmission coupling half, lifted the motor into place, and rotated from the pump end to line up with the remaining holes on the rubber coupling. I then reinstalled the clips used to hold the motor in place, reinstallation only took thumb pressure to snap back into place, then, I reinstalled the pump, using the same method, and reconnected the wiring plugs and copacitor leads. Lastly, I reinstalled the fiberboard panel into the bottom, and set the machine upright, slid back into place, and reconnected the hoses and electrical, and tested the machine. Worked perfectly.
In actually took longer to disconnect the machine, and get it out and back in, than it did to replace the coupling.

1) Disconnected power cord from wall. 2) Disconnected vent hose from back of dryer. 3)Removed dryer rear panel. 4)Disengaged tension spring on idle wheel arm. 5) Removed worn idle wheel. 6)Installed new Idler wheel assembly. 7) Vacuumed dust from rear of dryer (optional, recommended). 8) Reinstalled rear cover, vent hose and power cord. Easy repair 15-30

I have to admit that before attempting to replace the clutch, I had no clue how to do it. With the help of the diagram of the parts, I was able to access from the internet at PartSelect.com. I felt comfortable enough to attempt the repair because the diagram was easy to read and accurate.

Everything had to be accessed from the bottom of the machine. I tipped the machine backwards enough get under it. To replace the clutch, I had to remove the motor drive. To do so, I disconnected the electrial to the drive motor by simply unconnecting the quick connect harness. I then removed two screws from the two retainer brackets located one on top and one on the bottom. Once this was done the motor drive simply dropped down. I then removed the three bolts holding the gear case to the tub. I had to remove one bolt from inside the tub underneath the fabric softner dispenser. Once this was done the gear case slid out. The clutch sit on top of the gear case. I then simply removed the old clutch and installed the new clutch by reversing the process. The only real difficulty that I had was with the retainer ring. Once done, I reinstalled the gear case and motor drive. I would suggest replacing the direct-drive coupling at this time. I had earlier replaced the coupling hoping to solve the problem. The coupling was redesigned and is more likely to last longer than the orginal coupling.

I read a fix-it article from another contributor and followed those instructions to the T. Pull out lint trap, remove the two screws. Slide the top cover towards the front and prop it up with a mop handle.
Unscrew two screws in the door switch (with the door open) - Oh, to keep from killing yourself unplug the dryer just in case. Take pliers and pull the plug apart. It will be right in front of you in the right corner at the top. Plug new switch into that plug, reinstall the switch by reinstalling the two screws you removed. Snap top back into place and reinstall the two screws at the lint trap. Oh, don't forget to clean the trap and slide it back into the unit. Now you have earned that beer.
Put tools away and proudly show your job off to the wife telling her how difficult it was.

Remove the washing machine cabinet. Use a large flat head screwdriver to pry/wedge the tub suspension apart and gain access to the pad locations one at a time. My old pads were completely gone, so there was no need to remove them. Clip the new pads into place and re-install the cabinet.

This completely solved the violent chaking problem. There was no need to replace springs.

This was my first dryer repair, and it was so easy. Simply pull out the lint trap and unscrew the two screws that are exposed. They attach the top deck of the dryer to the drum.

Once it's unscrewed, pull forward while lifting the top of the dryer. The top is attached to the control assembly. They should both lift up, but you'll need something to prop it up like you would the hood of your car.

Next, use the pliers to pinch the connector so that you can separate the two parts of the connector.

Open the dryer door to gain access to the screws that hold the switch in place. Use your screwdriver to unscrew the switch.

Plug the new switch connector in, and close up the dryer.

Word of caution; there are sharp edges inside the dryer so be careful.

I first watched the youTube vidio on yhe PartSelect web site. After getting a visual of the repair, I decided to tackle the job with a better understanding and knew the repair was easy to purform. First I took the two screws out of the contrl panel on top of the washer, rolled the panel back to expose the clips that hold the metal cabinet to the back panel of the washer. After removing the cabinet I was ready to lay the washer on it's back and had a clear view of the pump, motor and clutch... I was able to easly identify these parts because I took time to watch the video. Using a flat head screwdriver I removed the clips that hold the pump to the motor... Without disconnecting the hoses connected to the pump I pushed the pump to the side and out of the way. This further exposed the motor. Using the flat head screwdriver, I removed the clips holding the motor to the transmission (they just snap off like they did on the pump). The motor was now ready to be removed from the transmission ( it just lifts off) before removing it I disconnected the power suply wire from the motor... Now the motor can be completely removed. I identified the drive couupler 1/2 was on the motor shaft the other 1/2 was on the transmission shaft.. On both halfs the splines were broken. I removed the old broken drive coupler. Since I already had the machine so far apart i figured i would replace the clutch also. Using a deep socket ratchet wit an extention I removed the agator... I then unbolted the transmission (only three bolts) I gentely pulled the transmission and shaft out of the bottom of the washer. This exposed the clutc assembly, I removed the clutc ( which wasn't bad or wore by the way) and replaced it.... I figured I had it and I was this far into the repair why not. After relpasingvthe clutch, I slid the shaft and transmission back into place tightened the bolts and that was done. I then slid/replaced the drive coupler... Placing one half on the motor shaft the other on the transmission shaft, placed the rubber bushing on the oneside of the plastic drive coupler. And mounted the motor back on the transmission utilizing the clips I took off earlier. Once the motor was in place I installed the waterpump fastened by the clips. Flipped yhe washer up, replaced the cabinet... Tightened down the the control panel and was ready to do some wash..: the washer runs perfect now and I saved myself about $700.00. It was allot easier than I thought it would be... Watching the youTube video is the secret to success. The washer is running like the day I bought it new... All for only 53.00. Hats off to everyone at PartsSelect for going above and beyond. Regards, ~ Michael

Disconnected the bracket screws that held the suspension springs in place - fed new springs into bracket and reattached. Local repairman told me that springs dont wear out, they break - wrong, they do lose their tension and thereby lose the ability to counterbalance the spinning load. Washing machine now spins like new - no wobble or shake.