WET4027HW2 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

Replaced the suspension rods not an easy task but very rewarding to hear it running quiet again when spinning.

Pushed the new one into place. No tools, no fuss and very little swearing involved. Clogg was caused by erroneously pouring the liquid detergent into the very handy opening reserved for fabric softener. I'd love to say my wife did that, but.... no, it was me. NOW, the real story. I ordered the part via the web at 10:00 a.m. It was delivered to me at 9:30 a.m. the next morning via Fed Ex. Wow! Great job at PartSelect.

Removed the liquid softener cartridge.
Removed the plastic seal inside the upper agitator using a pliers.
Removed the bolt holding the agitator in place using a 7/16 socket wrench with a 6 inch extension.
Lifted the agitator out.
Separated the upper and lower agitator into two pieces.
Replaced the cam assembly inside the upper agitator.
Reversed the whole process.

First I pulled the liquid softener dispenser from the top of the agitator. Then I pulled (also by hand) the cover that was beneath it. That revealed the bolt holding the agitator in place. I loosened this with a socket set and removed it. The old Cam-Agit, which was stripped, popped out and the new one popped in. I then reassembled everything in reverse order and was done in approximately 5 minutes. The agitator works great now and we are no longer getting clumps of powder detergent in the clothes from lack of agitation.

I removed the softener cup, unscrewed the bolt and replaced the cam kit. Super easy just like everyone else said. Parts were here very quickly and at a great price!

i took off the back of the drier and with a screw driver removed the 2 screws and put the new part on

Hi I took off the old one and put on the new one quick and easy

Used the maintenance kit....followed the movie tutorial. I also used an empty gallon plastic container to support the front of the drum while stretching the belt over the motor pulley. For the rear drum rollers, before sliding them on the shaft, I put a light grease film on the shaft. After the repair, the dryer runs quieter.

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

Turned off my circuit breaker first. Removed back panel with a 1/4 nut driver. Replaced the dryer fuse first. Very easy but did not fix the problem. Watched how to videos to narrow down the parts I might need. Purchased the thermal cut off kit. Installed the High limit thermostat first. Tested the dryer, no dice. Finally installed the Thermal cutoff. BAM!! I have heat. Since this is an older dryer I did need to use some WD40 to loosen some of the connections. Total cost of parts including tax and quick delivery was $48.30. Fantastic. My old man told me it was unfixable. He was wrong. I WIN. This site is a great teaching site. Thank you!

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.