CGT9000GQ0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

the ignitor did not glow red checked thermal fuse by exhaust duct. fuse open replaced thermal fuse

Removed old filter and put in new one.

somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme

Turn of the electrical power to the machine. I took off the cover on the machine below the door. You had to use phillips screwdriver to get the three screws out. In order to replace the pump I had to lift the washing machine about three inches up slightly over to one side (needed a strong person to lift as there was a dryer on top of it). The old pump has to be removed with a nutdriver as there are two nuts holding the pump in place under the machine ( I had to run out to the hardware store to buy a smaller one to fit under the machine as the big wrench was to big to fit under the machine). I unplugged the electrical connection to the pump. I unclamped the hoses attached to the pump using a plier, make sure you have something to hold water that will drain from the hose. I then push/pull the old pump to the right out of its place, it is attached to the metal at the bottom of the machine. I put in the new pump and tighten the screws on the bottom (this is the tricky part as you cannot see - a mirror may help). I also reattached the hoses and electrical connection. I turned on the machine to rinse to make sure there were no leaks before putting back the cover. Before throwing out the old pump, you can shake it and look in the opening of the old pump for any valuables left in pockets that may have washed out. I found a 18k bracelet, 25 cents and a small screw which may have caused the hole in the pump . Good luck :)

I searched the internet for parts because we had just had a repairman out to fix the knocking noise in the washer drum. He found an underwire from a bra there and removed it. That cost about $100.

My husband took apart the bottom panel and showed me what the part looked like and I was able to find it on your website. I was able to order the parts and have my husband repair the washer so I was only without a washer for a week and a half. Thank you.

I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

the problem was not the igniter its was the thermal fuse I broke the igniter during inspection of the problem be careful its a very easy thing to break repairs complete thank you parts select for the quick shipping and low prices

Replaced

First, I opened up the front of the dryer and then unscrewed the entire back piece. I assembled the new exhaust piece from the kit. Next, I took out the old straight rear exhaust and then replaced it with the elbow shaped left eshaust from the kit. Lastly, reattache the back and front pieces of the dryer.

Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

Our dryer would not heat and it seemed that no gas was coming from the regulator. The igniter was working fine but the burner never turned on. To check the problem, i followed the instructions to remove all body panels until I had access to the burner assembly. I dismantled both gas valve coils and tested each one for open or closed circuit using my multi-tester. I found that the three terminal gas valve coil was an open circuit and was not functioning so I ordered a new one from PartSelect and within just a couple days, had the drier back up and functioning. I also replaced the igniter due to a malfunctioning igniter that has been changed by the manufacture. I must say that PartSelect has the fastest shipping I have ever seen. One part I ordered was at my door in less than 24 hours and I only paid standard shipping...un real! OUTSTANDING....5 STAR SERVICE

First some background. The door locked up the first time when appliance was less than one year old. The "Maytag Repairman" finally succeeded in getting the door open after propping up the front of the machine and fumbling around underneath for a period of time and then assured me the problem was solved. The problem recurred less than a year later, and I called another repairman who seemed to have an easier time of it, and charged $293.42 to replace the water level switch. About six months later the same problem recurred and I took the cover off the top of the machine and found there a booklet "For Service Technician's Use Only". VERY HELPFUL. Told how extremely easy it was to unlock door - took about five seconds. Replacing the switch itself involved pulling one tubing off and disconnecting one elec connection from old switch and replacing on new switch. Total cost $50 plus a few dollars for shipping.

The dryer wouldn’t turn on at all. It was like it was unplugged from the wall. However, fixing it couldn't be easier. I simply removed the back panel, found the fuse, tested it with an Ohmmeter (to determine that this was the part that didn't work), ordered the part from this website, and replaced the part. The part arrived in about two days. The shipping was a little pricey, but overall the whole thing cost me $20 vs. whatever it would cost me to get someone else to repair it. The website helps to identify the problem, and it is helpful to read how other people fixed their problems. It was so easy and the service was so good, I will definitely use this website again and recommend it to others.

I tried to follow directions followed by others on this site after diagnosing the problem via suggestions provided by users. I have a Whirlpool Duet dryer from 2002. We've had problems since moving about 3 years ago. I removed the front panel (lower) by unscrewing the two bottom screws (1/4" sheet metal screws). Then I took out the lint screen and the metal tube/contraption immediately beneath to get access to the area where thermistor is located. See the drawing/chart to help you locate this. It's really easier than it seems. Make sure you have the chart/drawing for your model - it makes difference! The thermistor came out pretty easily with a nutdriver that has a swivel offset shaft. Ask your hardware store tool dept. about that one. Put everything back in reverse order of course and test either with/without the front panel re-attached. In my case it fixed at least part of the problem. I was able to get clothes almost dry with most settings but I have yet to install the moisture sensor to see if that helps in addition to the internal-bias thermistor. I am the kind of person that does one thing at a time so at least I now know the thermistor was bad. Good luck and hang in there with your own repair. It's a lot cheaper even if it takes you longer to do than a pro.

The water pump housing was leaking due to some pre-existing damage and leaking on the floor. The repairman wanted 60.00 just to show up. I purchased a replacement pump from PartsSelect.com and installed it myself by taking off the bottom front panel (two screws on the bottom and unclamping the two hoses from the pump and the two screws holding the pump to the frame and then unsnapping the wiring coupler from the old pump. I pulled the old pump out through the front of the machine. I then installed the new pump and replaced the front cover. I saved myself a lot of money and everything went smoothly! The machine works great.