WLXG42RED1 Westinghouse Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

This is a stacker washer/dryer combination. Took off the back panel of the dryer, but found out the front needed to come off instead,to replace the blower wheel. This took more time than replacing the wheel. Was pretty easy to get to the wheel and replace. The center part had broken so replaced wheel and clamp. The push in fastner was broke, which held in the lint screen part. Was easy to install this. Dryer sounds as good as it did when it was new. It was very easy to find the correct part and shipping was overnight! Great service.

followed the instructions on a blog

White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

Removed dryer front, unscrewed 3 screws in center hub, replaced bearing assembly. Removed old basket seal with razor scraper, cleaned surface with mineral spirits, applied new basket seal. Replaced dryer front and project was done. Dryer has no more sqeaks.

Unplug dryer (gotta say it). Remove the two screws that hold in the lint catch. Remove top of dryer (two screws in back hold brackets, the front snaps on). remove two screws along the front edge to take front panel off the dryer (there are also clips). Unhook the two electrical connectors that control the door shut off. Once the front is off, remove the old glide and felt and install the new parts. Be sure not to step on the tube of contact cement, making it explode inside the bag. That sucked. Reassemble.

Lifted top
removed adgetator
removed tub top
removed inside tub
removed inside tub holder bracket
repaced seal
replaced,replaced.....

Make sure you order a new belt and a new drum glide with the rear drum bearing assembly. If your bearing is worn out, so are the belt and drum glide!

1) Use a flat screw driver or putty knife to release the blind clips that hold the front side of the top of the dryer cabinet down
2) Swing dryer top up and remove two screws that hold the face of the cabinet.
3) Unplug the wiring harness and remove the cabinet face.
4) Remove the 3 screws that hold the drum to the bearing assembly (accessed from inside the drum. This makes it easier to remove the drum as the bearing assembly can be difficult to remove before you see how it snaps together
5) Reach under the drum and take the belt off the motor pulley, then remove the drum
6) Remove the old bearing assembly from the socket (slide up then out)
7) Remove the two screws that hold the bearing socket to the dryer
8) Fasten the new socket to the dryer (you'll need help doing this unless you have REALLY long arms because you have to reach inside the driver and the back of the dryer at the same time)
9) Grease the socket with the supplied high temp grease
10) Bolt the new bearing assembly to the drum and put the new belt around the drum
11) Put the drum back in and snap the bearing socket in and down
12) Guide the new belt around the motor pulley & tensioner
13) Glue the new drum glide / felt piece to the front cabinet
14) Put the cabinet back together

First I read the manual on how to replaced the dryer drum belt. Second I took off the front panel. This would involving taken all screws from the top of the dryer face and the front panel. Thirdly I removed the exhaust attachment. Then I saw that the belt broke. Really it looked torned apart. I believe too heavy of a load in dryer. I then installed the new belt and reversed everyhing I did to start. The dryer runs great. This is not that bad of a job. If you can do it yourself, why pay hunreds on a service man to do the job.

removed the two 'lock down flanges' from the back of the machine, lifted the top from the front and slid it forward to access the valve. Removed the two electrical connections then the compression ring from the hose on the output side. Removed two screws holding the valve in place, then reversed the process.

I wish this valve was made of metal rather than plastic. I had to replace it because the threads were stripped. Here's the heads up. Make sure the fittings on your supply hoses are 'clean' or you'll mess up the plastic threads and not get a good seal.

After the new replacement part arrived, I took off the complete back panel (after unplugging the electrical and shutting off the hot & cold water supply). I disconnected both hot & cold water hoses, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the water valve, unplugged the 2 electrical wires for the water valve sending unit, unclamped the outlet water hose. Then I reversed order with new water valve. Put everthing back together in about 20 minutes overall. I did also replace the hot & cold water supply hoses with a better quality hose. Works like new! Thank you very much.

S/O Water , Removed front panel, removed screws from side panel water valve accessible. Removed screws that hold water valve, installed new valve reassembled washing machine.

I removed the front panel to see the belt was snapped in two. The front roller is sping loaded, so I gave it a little tention, slid the belt back on and viola! it was that easy. If your washer starts to vibrate more and sounds louder than normal, get a belt as soon as possible because that may be the problem. Once I put on the new belt, the machine ran as quiet as it did when I first bought it.

I installed this part on a stackable washer-dryer unit. First, I removed the hoses (one had broken off already, damaging the cold water coupling). Using a nut driver I removed the screws on both L-brackets in back that help secure the dryer unit to the washer base. Then, I located 2 other screws securing the dryer to the washer base. These were fairly accessible in the recess where the dryer exhaust vent is located, directly above the water inlet valve. I removed both with a nut driver. I thought I would have to also unscrew 2 more screws on the other side of the dryer, but these were not accessible. So I lifted the side of the dryer I had unbolted to get to the water inlet valve. And voila! It lifted up. I placed a 2x4 on edge to keep the dryer tilted open. The inlet valve is attached to the back inside of the washer by a single screw on the Kenmore, which I removed with a phillips screw driver. Reaching inside the back of the washer, I disconnected the water hose by pinching the retaining clip with pliers. Then I pulled the electrical connections off the the hot and cold solenoids and the unit came out. The replacement unit was installed in reverse.