LTSA9AQN1180 Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Unscrewed the front and ran the dryer. The heating coil DID get red hot but the gas DID NOT blow out. Unscrewed the cover over the top of the two coils. Disconected the wire. Replaced coil and cover. SUPER EASY. Its the starting and holding coil which lets the gas shoot out onto the heating filament. $75.00 just for the repair man to come out plus parts, plus labor. Probably saved $200+. All the prints of the parts are on the website so you can see what your changing. TRUST ME....DO IT YOURSELF. You'll be glad you did!!

The first thing to do is to check to be sure the vent is clear. The easiest way to see if this is the problem is to pull the dryed away from the vent and let it vent into the room. Once you have determined that the vent is not the issue, take the front cover off and see what is going on on the inside. To remove the front cover first remove the 4 screws on the inside of the upper cabinet to take off the control panel, I was able to gain access to the screws under the front of the control panel that hold the front cover in place. A couple of electrical connectors later the cover is removed. The coils are easily accessed from in front of the burner by removing the 2 screws that hold the small silver cover over the coil. Once the cover is removed, the coils slide off a short shaft and you can replace the coil by swapping the apporpriate electrical connector for the coil being replaced. The coils are alligned with a small white pin so you can't get it wrong. Replace the covers and fire away.

This repair is easy and saves you a lot of money. This is a great web site, easy to identify the parts you need and the delivery is very fast. Nice Job!!!

The diagrams listed online gave me a the information needed to trouble-shoot which part could be broken. It only took two tries to see which part was out but was significantly cheaper than a repairman. The expediant delivery on parts made down-time a minimal. Very pleased with results.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

First of all, Parts Select is a great service. By giving us an idea of what parts we needed we were able to buy them without a lot of expense. My son and I did this repair together, and it took us a long time. We found an excellent video for repair on the web, and then lost it and couldn't find it again. We had trouble even getting the dryer opened up. That is where a putty knife comes in handy. Be sure to find out how to open it; it will save you a lot of grief. It is supposed to be easy, but it wasn't. Still,it was great to get it fixed so inexpensively. I'll leave the "how I did it" part up to people who had an easier time, but no regrets that we did it. Parts select sent the parts right away.We ended up only using the coil kit.

tested all limit switches with electrical meter to see if they were bad. All switches tested and ohmed out fine. then looked in and saw a hot serfice ignitor and went right to the problem. I have been a furnace man for some time which would give an advantage over the average do it yourselfer. Once I found the bad part and checked resistance across the element, I instantly went on line and ordered the part.the part came in one day and it was the exact part nothing generic, put the part in and was drying clothes again in only two days. Thankyou so much and I hope to get another 5 yrs of drying clothes out of this appliance. Jim P.

I started by taking the front of my dryer off and cleaned it out. Next i ran the dryer and watched the flame starter circut. The starter circut would work once and then not for a long time but i could see it was tring to light because the iginiter would glow white hot. I then searched online for my model number and found the part select web site. In a few minutes I found a dryer fault description that best fit what my dryer was doing. The part select site should me three parts it might be. I read about what the three parts did on the parts select site. Then by using the process of elimination, with the knowledge I had just learned, I narrowed my suspect parts down to one. The coil for the gas valve must be the problem. So I got my ohm meter and measured the coil resistance and I found that when the coil was room temp it had resistance. But it would get hot after one heat cycle and it would open up therefore causing the gas valve not to open......no heat! I ordered the part and it came in two days!!!! All fixed!

This repair is very simple. (1) remove the lint screen bracket on top - two phillips head screws. (2) Gently pry open the top of the dryer with a large flat head screwdriver. It hinges backward. (3) Remove the top two nuts on the front panel. Lift the panel upward off the lower brackets. The door wiring is still connected, so I just rotated the front panel to the side. The interior is now exposed. (4) Take the drum belt off the tensioner assembly and pull the drum out. (5) Remove the coil retention plate - two phillips screws. (6) Disconnect the old coils, install new coils. I started the dryer up while disassembled to ensure the new coils worked and the burner fired. But a word of caution ... don't run the burner long with the dryer apart, as it could overheat. After all of this, reverse the process. YouTube also has a couple good videos showing all of this visually. I have very average mechanical skills, and this was an easy job. Another word of caution: most of the metal surfaces inside the dryer have nice sharp edges. Invest in a good pair of gloves to avoid mincing your hands up.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

when I see its no gas flame, i deduct the flame sensor and the electric coils not fuction, I order tru partselect and that take me like 30 min. to remplaced those parts.

Opened the top, removed the front panel. Supported the drum with my foot while I replaced the coils. I used a very short screwdriver so I would not have to remove the drum.

Unplug appliance from power source. Started by simply using screwdriver or steel putty knife to snap up the top corners of the top section of the dryer. It swings open like the hood of a auto. Looked on the back side of the front panel and found small 5/16" bolts on either side. Removed these bolts and lifted up on the front panel to remove the panel. Slide panel out of the way far enough to access the coil kit on the lower front section of the dryer. (The wires going to the door control switch will allow this without unplugging.) May need a helper to hold the dryer drum up out of the way or prop it up as I did with a block of wood so you can easily unplug/re attach the coil wiring. There are two Phillips head screws that hold the coil keeper in place. Remove these two screws, unplug the two coils (front coil has a three connector plug and the one behind it has a two wore plug). the front coil has a small sleeve that I needed to transfer to the new coil in front. Inserted sleeve as it came out of the old coil, slid both coils back in place, replaced coil retainer being careful to line tabs on top of coils so that they lined up in the coil keeper. Replaced screws in coil keeper. Placed front panel back on being careful not to damage the felt liner that the drum spins on. Replaced the two bolts on the inner side of each corner of the front panel. Lowered the top panel and firmly pushed it back down so that the holders went in place. Plugged it up and it worked perfectly.

Igniter would glow and flame would burn for about 30 seconds then a rattling noise would start and the flame would go out. Replaced the coil and all is well. Very simple and inexpensive. One of the easiest repairs I've ever done. Video was very helpful.

All went very easily

Checked to see if heating element was warming up by checking through access hole on front of dryer,it was, you know because it glows,so replaced coils and it fixed the problem. Important note, buy the coils as a packet, almost half the price than buying seperately. Thx everybody who sends in info, this is a great site to save people money on fixing appliances