UE8031 Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

Too simple to describe.

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

im a car mecanic it was easy

replaced idler puller and washers

noticed that male half was in good working order, so I just snapped in the new female half; without any tools. easy repair!

Researched the common problem with "dryer not turning on", and tested the top three problems. Removed the dryer front casing and door, unbolted front dryer plate. Used a volt meter on two of the temp gauges, which were fine. Removed the upper back plate of the dryer to the wiring for the knobs and buttons. Used the volt meter on the dryer start button, which was also fine. Went back around to the front and removed the door switch. Tested it with the volt meter and bingo. Replaced that part, dryer works like normal.

When the dryer stopped working, I checked the two switches to see if they were good. The start button checked out OK but the switch on the door read bad. Ordered the part with the part number and put on when it arrived. Just a matter of disconnecting and reconnecting three wires. Very simple

Ordered part ( door latch ) flowed instructions easily fixed same.

Turned off water & unpluged ac power. Removed 2 screws on front panel. Removed panel. Found peices of V belt. Removed 4 screws from electric motor which allowed the belt to come out. Ordered new belt on line. Received the item in one day. Reversed the above sequence above. Now the washer is running as good as new.

Really easy popped the lid with a flat head screwdriver, then marked wires for door light and switch, took 2 5/16 bolts to remove front door, then 4 bolts also 5/16 to remove front panel but be care ful and remove drum belt then take panel and drum out. Then took a set of ring pliers to remove wheel slapped new one on.then reverse sreps to assemble.

Removed front of dryer, first the lower then the upper front covers. Removed front drum support, front blower housing cover. Removed belt, and then motor with housing and blower wheel attached. Broke wheel and cover off motor, placed motor in vise to remove threaded nut from motor drive shaft (nut was seized). Reinstalled motor and belt. Installed new housing and blower wheel. Reassembled dryer. Note if old blower wheel had come off repair would have taken half the time and been significantly easier to perform.

removed front, top cabinet, drum, belt and motor. replaced idler pulley on motor. replaced motor, belt, drum and cabinet parts. test ran fine.

First, I replaced the male end which was just two screws and simple replacement of pushing the fastener into the door frame. When finished I noticed the female end was damaged as well. Glad the female part came as well. This required taken off the front trim around the door (four screws - 2 each side) and then the door. The installing of the female end was easy with a little push. The damaged female end was already hanging out so easy to grab and remove. Otherwise I would have had to remove the front panel. Note You need to put the door trim back on before reattaching the door.