UE8031 Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Determined no air flow or heat through system even though dryer spun and timer worked. Ouside vent dispelled no air. Opened dryer panel.
Blower wheel/fan broken off from shaft. Googled appliance parts ... found ... Partselect .... keyed in mfg, model number ... schematics available ... found part ... ordered ... received in two days ... installed ... reassembled. Working fine ! $ 30.00 compared to buying new dryer ! This was a refreshing and rewarding repair. If it could always be this smooth !!! Great resource ... PARTSELECT !

The old door catch broke and fell into the unit. Ordered the new part which arrived fast and snapped it into place. Perfect fit and the door now closes/latches correctly - like new again. Would recommend your web site to all do-it-yourselfers. Loved browsing your site, especially seeing all of the schematics and parts list for my unit.

I used a screwdriver to pry out the broken door latch and inserted the new one in the same slot. Perfect fit. The picture of the part in the order page was a big help to identify the correct part.

Fairly easy to repair once I figured out how to get it apart. The amazing part of this was searching the web for the part. I found PartSelect, ordered it at about 2pm Eastern time and the part arrived the next day! I will definitely use this service again.

Just snapped the new plastic latch into the hole (the hole was there because in trying to extract the old latch, it fell into the inside of the door). Took two seconds. Order to arrival of the part took only 22 hours!

First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. Pryed up the top of the dryer at the front corners to free the front panel. Removed the two screws at the bottom front of the front panel. Then disconnected the three electrical connections for the door button. Put the front panel to the side. Then took out lint tray and then removed four screws that hold the lint blower piece and put it aside. Then I could see the motor and the idler assembly is on the back of it. If you have a camera take a picture of how the belt is on the pulley. If not you can draw a general idea of the direction. I reached back and slipped the belt off the idler pulley. Removed two screws from the front bottom of motor fork .Removed two screws from a small electrical hook up thats on the front of the motor and removed it. At this point I could just slide the motor out. With a rachet and a regular wrench I removed the small bolt holding the arm on. Put on the new arm. Slid the motor back in and reconnected the belt. Put everything back together in the same way. Yeah it works. I am a 58 year old woman and this job required no brute strength. Don't be intimidated its really not that difficult to fix it yourself.

We did not have instructions on how to remove broken agitator. Looking online, we found easy instructions but found it difficult to remove the agitator even though it was supposed to be an easy task.
Our particular model was supposed to "pop" off with little resistance. Not so!
It took some stong muscle and will power to remove the part but putting the new agitator on was simple.

Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.
I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.
Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

replaced idler puller and washers

Pushed in the Door Catch, and it was fixed.

Installing the new switch was a snap. With the dryer unplugged, open the top using a putty knife to release the 2 clips - one on each side. Lift the top and support it to stay open. Next, note the wire color and location for each of the 3 wires. Remove each wire from its prong on the bad switch by gripping the connector with pliers and pulling off. Next remove the bad switch by squeezing the tabs on the sides of the switch to release it. The switch removes to the front of the dryer. Install the new switch in the same method and reconnect the wires as before making sure the colors go back on the same prongs. I had to replace one of the connectors with a larger one (that came with the switch) since one of the prongs on the new switch was larger than the orginal (bad) switch. To do this, I cut the old connector off, stripped the end of the wire, and crimpted on the new connector. I had to be careful not to waste too much wire since there was very little slack to work with.

Too simple to describe.

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.