CTS99AWN Speed Queen Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

check the coils first. parts shipped to house within 24 hours. 29 bucks with shipping!

UNPLUG Drier
Remove bottom panel 2 screw
Remove 2 connector to coil
remove 2 screws
lift off cover
lift coil s
reverse steps

Unscrewed the front and ran the dryer. The heating coil DID get red hot but the gas DID NOT blow out. Unscrewed the cover over the top of the two coils. Disconected the wire. Replaced coil and cover. SUPER EASY. Its the starting and holding coil which lets the gas shoot out onto the heating filament. $75.00 just for the repair man to come out plus parts, plus labor. Probably saved $200+. All the prints of the parts are on the website so you can see what your changing. TRUST ME....DO IT YOURSELF. You'll be glad you did!!

MY issue was the heat would cycle up on a fully cold dryer, but if the Dryer stopped for whatever reason or started a sucessive new load, you'd get no heat. I could leave the dryer unplugged for 30 minutes and it would fire back up with heat but would go out shortly, or if lucky might finsh the load.

Most of the repair avenues point towards the cycling thermostat or the flame sensor.

But It was the gas Coils.

It's Been perfect for couple weeks.

Great Site

I took the front dryer panel off by removing 4 screws. I the removed 2 screws from the bracker that secured the 2 valve coils. I unplugged the 2 coils the placed new ones in the exact same position. Fastened the valve coil bracket and replaced the front dryer panel. The dryer worked like new. Thanks!!!

removed cover removed old coils installed
new coils ,test dryer running great .
thanks partselect.

I took the front of the dryer off. The two gas valve coils were right in front. Replaced the two terminal gas valve coil and the secondary coil valve three terminal. Cleaned the inside with shop vac and re-installed the front dryer panel.

The first thing to do is to check to be sure the vent is clear. The easiest way to see if this is the problem is to pull the dryed away from the vent and let it vent into the room. Once you have determined that the vent is not the issue, take the front cover off and see what is going on on the inside. To remove the front cover first remove the 4 screws on the inside of the upper cabinet to take off the control panel, I was able to gain access to the screws under the front of the control panel that hold the front cover in place. A couple of electrical connectors later the cover is removed. The coils are easily accessed from in front of the burner by removing the 2 screws that hold the small silver cover over the coil. Once the cover is removed, the coils slide off a short shaft and you can replace the coil by swapping the apporpriate electrical connector for the coil being replaced. The coils are alligned with a small white pin so you can't get it wrong. Replace the covers and fire away.

This repair is easy and saves you a lot of money. This is a great web site, easy to identify the parts you need and the delivery is very fast. Nice Job!!!

The diagrams listed online gave me a the information needed to trouble-shoot which part could be broken. It only took two tries to see which part was out but was significantly cheaper than a repairman. The expediant delivery on parts made down-time a minimal. Very pleased with results.

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.

Unplug electric, open top, take off front, with a small Phillips screw driver remove two screws securing the coils, remove one coil at a time, unplug and replace with new coil, secure with metal bracket and reinstall front and top and your done.

Opened the top, removed the front panel. Supported the drum with my foot while I replaced the coils. I used a very short screwdriver so I would not have to remove the drum.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.

Undo 2 screws take units out, clean a little, install new parts and screw down, done, great site !!!!!