LSE7806ADQ Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I took off the front of the dryer with the screws at the bottom. I removed what wires would easily come off and took a picture to remember where they go. Then I took of the front panel and had to take off the cover for the blower wheel. Some screws were difficult to reach because they were in a very tight space. I used a combination of needle nose pliers and a hex screw bit to loose hared to reach hex screws.
For the felt seal on the front panel, I used a flathead screwdriver to remove the old seal and replace the new seal. The most tricky thing was making sure the seal was laying right along the drum when putting the front panel back on. Once back together, the skidding sound disappeared.
Replacing the blower wheel is pretty easy once I got past the difficult screws holding the cover down. I used snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring then put the new blower wheel on and put it all back together. I found that the tip diameter of the snap ring pliers needed to be less than 0.05'' to fit into the snap ring holes of both the snap rings for the roller wheels and the blower wheel.

Remove front panel. Then remove top of washer, two bolts at front of top. Then remove two bolts that hold switch assembly to top on right side of top. Switch gets pried out. It just sits in with small pins holding it in place. Wire connectors hold very tight. Install is reverse.

I used two vise grip wrenches in place of specialized tool that is no longer available. I put the vice grip wrenches on the brake assembly and hit them alternately with a hammer. I also used penetrating oil.

Note, the parts package stated made in USA but the bearings had China stamped on them.

took off front of washer , took off hose clamp removed old hose . replaced with new hose clamped back on put on front cover ran washer check for any leakes. done and done

I inserted the clip

Unscrew the hoses. Remove access panel. Unclip the 4 electrical wires. Undo the hose clamp on the top of valve and remove hose. Unscrew the one screw holding the valve in place. Remove valve. Reverse for installation.

I followed Dan from Mason OHIO instructions.They were perfect. I have a different series washer so I did not need the washer and retaining ring. I used 2 lengths of 4x4 to support the tub when smacking the bearing with the narrow side of a 2x4 to drive it out. You hit it from the inside of the tub. When installing the new one, use the wide side of the 2x4 to drive it flush.

Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well

The instructions were clear. Did every step. Did 2 loads so far and everything works like new.

My washer is apparently 37 years old. I bought it used in the 90’s and have had to do little or nothing to it repair wise. It started to make a loud squeal/squeak when the spin cycle stopped. I watched a couple videos showing the brake assembly, bearings and belt replacement and was able to find parts. However, one bearing appears to no longer be made (just repacked with heavy duty grease) and the special tool is nonexistent. I read others using a chain clamp vise to remove the brake assembly and bought a 20 inch chain clamp vise and a 3 set variety of vise grip pliers for about $20. They make an 18 inch chain vise but glad I got the 20 inch. I used two vise grip pliers to clamp chain around notch two notches that the specialty tool would normally grab. It was a cumbersome getting in there to whack the pliers with a small sledge hammer so I got a approx 18 inch 2x4 and cut a notch at the end to keep chain vise from digging into bottom of washer and whacked the end of the 2x4. Seemed to work ok and did the same to tighten back after replacing break assembly. Got it out back together and no more squeal.

I didn’t have special tool for brake but punch and hammer worked. Seal was easy to replace. Several videos online to show you how. It wasn’t worth it to tear apart the transmission and buy more parts/seals (if they were even available). But I didn’t know how much oil was in it. I drilled a hole in the side to somewhat check level and added 80-90 gear oil. It was almost empty and added almost a quart. Used a self taping screw/bolt with gasket sealer to plug the hole. I got 34 yrs out of this washer. If it fails, oh well. Just hate to buy a new one that only last 10yrs if im lucky.

First I removed the four screws that hold the back cover of the control panel. I then disconnected the two wires from the buzzer and removed two screws holding the buzzer. Install the new buzzer.

All I had to do is tilt the machine to expose the bottom and replace the belts. It was fast, easy and the machine works fine now.

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.