SG9900 Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

My 11 year old grandson and I did the repair together. He had a blast and I did too. First we removed a bunch of screws that got us no closer to getting the machine apart than when we started. Then I remembered from the last time I had the machine apart that there are two screws just below the door, angled as not to be visable unless you know where to look. Once we removed those the from came off. We removed the wires for the door light and heat sensor, remembering the order of the wires for later reinstallation. Then we undid the bolts holding down the top. Once the top was removed we took off the belt and removed the drum. We used the retainer pliers to remove the retainer ring from the first roller. We removed the roller and also the shaft as this roller was the noise maker and the shaft was not in reusable condition. We installed a new shaft, roller washer, roller, another roller washer and then the retainer ring. We repeated the same process on the other roller, although we did not replace the shaft as it was in good condition. It turned out I did not need to order the shaft washers as the rollers came with washers. Oh well, its not a good job unless you have parts left over when you are done. Once we replaced the rollers we commenced reinstallation. But first we had to google for diagram of the proper belt installation, which we found and that got the drum and belt installed properly. Thankd god for the internet. Once we had the drum installed we put the machine back together in the opposite order we took it apart. An operational test showed we did the job right, no more squeaking. The only injury was my grandson cut his thumb right after I gave him the speech about watching where your hand is going to end up when that bolt breaks free. It broke loose and into the metal bracket went his thumb. Oh well it was a good lesson and it was not a bad cut. All in all a good repair.

I looked up the procedure to remove the switch in a repair book, removed the broken switch. Then I reconnected the wire leads, put the part in and closed everything up. The part arrived so quickly and there were even instructions with the part which made the repair go so easily.

Wish there was a video. I am above average handy but this one- I might just pay someone next time...The tape on the threads was a great tip but took a while to understand what they meant by putting tape on the threads. Scraping off the old pads is easy for the front one but the back pad and a half is so hard to reach to really get it cleaned. Bruised and cut knuckles on that one. Then not having the glue for the pads was a surprise and you have to get a good contact type cement that sets in 10-15 minutes or you will be waiting hours to put it back together. It was easy to put the first spring on, then the second and third got harder and harder.

First I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I determined that the belt for the pump had fallen off because the drive belt was worn (and inverted) and a piece was hanging off and causing the pump belt to slip off the motor. I replaced the belt for the pump (Temporarily) to allow the tub to drain.

I replaced both belts with new belts and returned the front panel. The process took 15 minutes due to the necessity of explaining the proper use of tools to a neighbor child and allowing him to assist (required for the completion of one of his Cub Scout requirements).

I went to a major appliance part outlet in my area...they told me that they didn't make the parts in the USA anymore. I found your website, ordered the parts, installed them in less than 15 minutes and now the washer works great. I would recommend your website to anyone... thank you

The ignitor is easy to determine if it is defective. When you start the dryer and the ignitor does not glow , it is bad.
The replacement involves unpluging the dryer, opening the control access door ,the removal of one screw, unplug the bad ignitor, plug in the new ignitor, reinstall the one retaining screw, plug the dryer back in, check for proper opperation of the ignitor, and close the close the control access door.
Very easy

Piece of cake. Used flat screwdriver to pry out female part on cabinet side, same with the male part on door. Every new replacement part was tight and operated like new. Thanks Part Select, you'll be forever on my list of online parts buying.

1st We pulled the washing machine from the wall and unplugged it. 2nd We tilted the maching back against the wall so that we could see all the pullies. 3rd. We removed the two screws that afix the front panel on the lower part of the washing machine and removed the panel. 4th We removed both belts and put new belts on. 5th We put all parts back in place and plugged maching back in, slide it back in place. 6th It worked like a charm and I proceeded to wash 3 loads of laundry that evening. The only tool we needed was the phillips head screw drive to take off the front panel. It took us 5 minutes to fix the machine.

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off of the washer. Once that was done, the pump came off easy.... 3 screws attached it to the bottom panel and 2 hose had to be disconnected. Putting the new one in was easy.

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

I removed 2 screws holding the front of the cabinet and set the front panel aside. Next I removed the screw securing the relay and water level switch to the front of the cabinet, and removed 4 screws holding the top of the washer to the cabinet. I removed the hose, then removed the 4 screws securing the siphon break to the rear panel and pulled it inside the cabinet. I removed the elbow and gasket, installed the new elbow and gasket, and reassembled all parts previously removed. I reconnected the hose and fastened it to the drain, and I was back in business. It took about 35 minutes.

Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.