LSE9900ADL Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

First removed the two lower screws from the front panel. I then unscrewed two screws holding the top(lid) of washing machine. I then lifted the lid and let it rest on its rear hinges. The syphon is removed by unscrewing four screws from the rear of the washer. I then cut the original clamp holding the syphon to the hose. New syphon was installed. Enclosed hose clamp was used to tighten around hose. Syphon was then then screwed back to the rear wall of the machine. Easy fix. Water leak solved.

Found error code list on internet. stated that the 7E code was a faulty Thermistor or a few other possibilities. also found instructions to test Thermistor and clear error code. unplugged dryer plug to reset error. removed panel to access thermistor on blower duct, started dryer and ran until 7E error reappeared. removed one wire from thermister and using a volt/ohm meter. checked the resistence through the two post of thermister.
should read between 100-50 ohm. 100ohm=room temp and 50ohm=180 degree F (approx) replaced with new Thermister and problem solved.

Removed two screws from bottom of front cover. Raised front cover to disingage clips and remove. Removed two screws to release top cover. Propped top cover up with mop to allow access to injector site. Removed two clamps to free injector sleeve, nozzle and valve from inlet hose. Installed new clamps, sleeve, nozzle and bracket. Lowered top cover and tested for leaks. None found. Reinstalled top cover. Reinstalled front cover. Washer back in service.

The repair went better then I thought it would go.
the seals went on just fine

I thought it was going to be next to impossible to find a replacement part for an older washer. So my first attempt was to try to epoxy the original part, but the epoxy didn't hold up to the stress. I began thinking about what I might need to make a replacement part which was possible but not very practical. Although I dreaded trying to find this part online, I was very surprised and elated to happen upon PartSelect! Oh, by the way, this washer belongs to my daughter and I nave tossed the paper I wrote the model number on, so the model number was entered as the part number, sorry. At any rate, the the part was reasonable priced, and shipping about standard, but I still saved a lot by doing it myself rather than having a repair person for something this simple. Partselect online lookup made it easy to find the model and drawings to help me find the correct part nomenclature. AND, the part was in stock! So I am pleased with how this venture worked out.

First I shut off the power at the breaker. I removed the two screws on top holding the front panel in place I removed the wires carfully marking so they would go back in the correct places. I removed the tub and then removed the old motor and switching the wires to the new one. Mounted the new motor, replaced the tub with the belt, attached the belt to the motor. connected the marked wires and put the front cover back in place with the two screws on top of machine. Turned the power back on and started it up it works perfect The motor only cost $119.00 and a little of my time much better than getting a new machine as it is a stack washer dryer.

I watched the video

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

I went to the Internet and saw how to pry the front panel off the washer. This gave me access to the two belts and four pulleys underneath the washer; a pair for the Drive and a pair for the Pump. There was enough slack in the original belts that they came off with minimal effort. The new belts were easy enough to install. It took a mere seconds to install the new Spacers on the Front panel of the cabinet. The most time consuming portion of the project was getting the washer turned out of its tight corner to get access to the clips on the bottom of the front panel.

Frist remover the two screws from washer front. The ones that are about 5 inches from the floor. Pulled front cover toward me and removed. The hose was right in the front that was cracked. It was held on by two hose clamps. I just removed the old and put in the new. No more water on the floor. Shipping was fast for the hose too. They said that if they recieved the order by 3pm it would be shipped the same day. I order at 3:01pm Sat. recieved Tuesday.

Removed the front panel. Then blocked up the front of the machine. Removed the pump belt. Removed the 3 5/16" screws from the bottom of the old one and tilted it slightly to remove. Put the new one in and reinstalled the 3 screws. Put the belt back on and slid new pump all the way to the right and tightened 1 screw. Loosened the screw until there was about 1/4" of gap when squeezed the belt together. Tightened the one screw, then the other 2. Put the front panel back on and lowered the machine. New pump works great.

Press in the new female latch part with thumbs. Took about two seconds!

I used a flat screw driver to pop out the old female portion and snapped in the new one. Dryer stays shut. That's it!

It was as simple as leaning the machine back far enough so I could get to the belts - which were on the bottom. The diagrams that came with the ordered parts were right on. This is the first time I have attempted this myself - my repairman has retired - I'm sure I will do it again.