MLG2000AWW Maytag Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

This kit came with instructions. I followed them closely. The only thing I could add is clean the tub spindle with steelwool to remove any debris or rust. then wipe down spindle to remove all steelwool particles and follow instructions to reassamble.

I used the trouble shooting part of this site and bought the radiant flame sensor and the high limit thermostat. Installation was very easy. The original problem still persisted and then purchased the temp. control thermostat, cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. These parts installed easily as well and the problem still existed.

While using the Multimeter to determine if the gas valve coils were getting voltage during the lighting process I moved the contacts on the two wire coil and noticed that the coil would activate sporadically. As it turned out the coil had a loose connection which would contact while cool and then lose contact when the coil warmed up.

This was a tricky issue to diagnose and am now waiting for a new coil to finish the repair.

I now have an almost complete set of spare parts for electrical issues and got them at a nice price. I will keep them in the event that I might need some of them in the future.

The repair would have been easy and very straight forward thanks to this website if the actual problem hadn't been the crazy heat related bad connection in the coil. Since the flame would light during startup the coils seemed to me to be good. Actually finding a weird issue is the sort of thing I find to be the fun part of repairing things.

Thanks Parts Select ! !

Gregg heagney

This is a Washer/Dryer stack unit. Had trouble with the power light not going off automatically. Had to press the power on/off switch to get it to turn off and allow the door to open. While this was going on, the washer would rotate every few seconds and would continue this until the off switch was pressed. Tried replacing the door lock enabler switches and the timer. This did not help. Finally smelled an electrical odor and found that the mother board (located in the upper right front part of the dryer) had a burned resistor (R-11) When this happens, it requires replacing the wax motor and the mother board. This corrected the problem. If you do have problems with the door lock, I would suggest replacing the wax motor as soon as possible. If the wax motor isn't replaced it may burn the new mother board. If I had replaced the wax motor initially, I doubt if the mother board resistor would have burned. Works fine now.

The best way to access the water value was through the rear of the stackable washer/dryer by removing the back access panel (3 screws with nut driver). It was also necessary to remove the large back panel where you access the drive belt to get you hands up to the valve. It was a little tight accessing the valve unit from the back but definitely better then removing alot more to access through the front.

Once the back access panels are off you will see the blue water valve. it has (3) water hose connections and (5) electrical connections. Make sure to label each of the water hoses and electrical connections before removing them. The hoses simply are held on by hose clamps (use a screw driver) and the electrical connections just slide off the contact conductors. Real simple but again it is a bit tight working from the small access panel.

I marked all of the hose and electrical connections prior to removing anything. The removed all connections and slipped out the water valve. Simple reconnected water hoses and electrical connections replaced both access panels and all systems were a go.

Definitely a relatively easy fix for a do it yourself project. Part was only $70 (included shipping). Repair cost for the Maytag man was quoted at $450 for visit labor and parts.

Removed front of dryer, unplugged each coil to determine where buzzing was coming from.....determined it was the boosting coil....ordered part and replaced. Dryer works great....we think it had be going bad over time because drying times have noticeable decreased.

I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

take 2 phillips screws out where door meets drier. remove door, set aside. take 2 phillips screws out on other side, set screws aside. remove front of drier by pulling on top left and right sides, front of drier will fall twards front of drier. when it touches the floor lift up on bottom. set aside for later. put new baffels in (you can see where the old ones went) put screws in from bottom 5/16nutdriver. tighten. put drier front back on . start at bottom , snap top back in on both sides. put two screws back on left side, put door back on and replace 2 screws ( door will not go on wrong) test and your done...

To be more precise, the clothes weren't getting dry and there was some sort of vibration sound coming out of the dryer. I removed the front panel (by removing the 4 front screws (2 in the door and 2 on the opposite side). I then ran the dryer while inspecting the innards. I notice that the igniter was lighting but was failing to start the gas flame. I could smell a little gas during this period so I know that gas was available but was not getting released in the correct amount. This told me that the gas valve we malfunctioning. I remove the gas valve and broke the igniter (it's fragile so be careful). Some other contributer did the same thing :(
I replace both the igniter and gas valve and presto... it was fixed. My wife was impressed and I looked good. I guess that's all that matters :)

I remove the front control panel and to get to the bottom front dryer door off. Using my volt meter i checked all the sensors and thermal. I surf the internet for hint and some one mention to replace the coil since some time you could have one goes out and the other working still. After i replaced the coil kit it works like a champ.

The repair was easy, based on the comments from this website. I used a 6-in-1 screwdriver, and that was the only tool. I removed the two screws holding the hinges, removed the door, then the two screws on the opposite side of the opening. This allowed the front panel to come off. I spun the dryer tumbler until the baffle that was loose was at approximately 5 o'clock. I unscrewed the remaining screw and found the missing screw in the bottom of the dryer. I put those two screws into the new baffle, and popped the front back in place. I reinstalled the four screws (two opposite the hinge, then the two that hold the hinges)...all done in about 20 minutes (including vacuuming the lint out from that lower area).

I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

This is a stack unit. The service manual describes the repair by going in from the front of the washer. I found it much quicker by the back. Take the large panel off the rear of washer. Take 2 screws out of the H/C connection panel and work it to the inside of the washer. Next you will be able to turn it enough to get to a single screw on the right side that holds the valve assembly to the support panel. Take it out and now you can slide the valve assembly to the right and release it from the support panel. Drop the panel down and out of the washer. Next mark electrical connections and unplug all. Start on the left and take off all 3 hoses careful not to mix them up and re-attach to new valve assembly. Hook up electrical plugs, re-attach to support panel and work the panel through the opening and re-attach to the outside of washer. It is a little tight working in close quarters, but will save lots of time. This was much less involved that trying to get to the valve assembly from the front!

Let me give a little background first for those trying to diagnose their dryer issue. My dryer was turning on and running but the clothes were not drying. From everything i read I thought it was going to just be the IGNITER (part# 304970 [Partselect# PS373025]), but when I opened the dryer and watched it worked I saw that the igniter was working fine and the gas was coming on. This made me think that it is was the HIGH LIMIT THERMOSTAT (# 3033950 [Partselect# PS2029366]). I replaced this and got no real change other than the gas would stay on a bit longer at the start. So I replaced the other TEMPERATURE CONTROL THERMISTOR (# 3072080 [Partselect# PS2030068]) but this had no effect. I then went back to my original thought of the igniter and replaced it with no improvement. My dryer was still running and only occasionally lighting the gas to heat up the drum, the clothes would eventually dry after a much longer than normal time. After reading some other stories I decided to try the GAS VALVE WITH COILS. I ordered the part and was surprised when it arrived at my house the next day. I took out the four screws in the front panel which are accessed by opening the door to the dryer. I shut off the gas and removed the igniter to avoid any accidents with it. Unscrew the gas line from the old valve, remove two screws in bottom of unit to remove it from the dryer. Turn it over and remove two small screws to remove old valve from housing. Now take your new valve and do the opposite. Set in the housing, screw in the two small screws, place in dryer and replace two screws to hold in place. Screw gas line onto new valve and replace igniter. Turn on the gas and give it a test run. My dryer fired right and for the first time in a long time the whole dryer actually got warm.

I followed the other instructions provided by your toher users. Basically I reomved the 4 face screws secruing the front pannel assembley and the door hinges as described with a philips head screw driver. Removal of the door was easily accomplished once you played witht he hinges to slide them upward slightly to clear the lips. The soap dispenser was then loosened by removing the 4 corner screws. Take care not to completely remove the soap dish. It simply needs to be moved aside with the flexible hoses still attached. This is accomplished once the top lid is hinged upward out of the way. The face panel can then be removed and set asside ater removing the screws holding it in place. Remove the damaged boot with the anterior face (door side)first. It simply gets pulled away from the sealing flanges. With the top lid removed you should have direct visualization and access to the retaining cable and the spring tensioner. I found that neither of the previously described methods of taking the tension with pliers or having an assistant were particularly helpful. Under the soap dispenser you will notice a hole in the top lip of the side frame. I attached a piece of rope to this hole using a small snap link. The other end of the rope had an "s" link set into the middle of the rope and the other end hooked over the spring hook. Now puliing back on the loose end of the rope back towards the attachment point creates a mechanical advantage easing the spring open and then using pliers you can easily remove the retaining cable. Ease off the spring and then set aside. The posterior portion of the door boot can now be removed and the old piece discarded. Take care to disconnect the drain plug at the bottom first. Replacing the boot was fairly straighforward. I attached the posterio portion first taking care to align the indentions were appropriate. Once is was attached and aligned, use the rope assembly once again to draw tension on the spring in a controlled fashion. Hold the other end of the cable with some needle nose pliers and slip over the spring hook once enough tension is applied. This method only took me one try and the mechanical advantage created was very effective. I then turned my attention to the anterior portion of the boot and pushed it into the flanges. I also found the the required pressure was a bit stiff and your fingers will get tired quickly. Use a smooth stick or a spatula particularly underneath the door latch assembly since space is tight and you will not be able to get your fingers underneath it. Put the face palte back in place and reattach the screws. Put the soap dispenser assembly back in place and hinge the lip back into place. Reattach the screws for the soap dispenser and lid. Reattach the door and test everything for any leaks. It was not very diificult at all and it took roughly 30-45 minutes. Read all of the other stories as well to help get an overal flavor for the job beforehand.