GCWL1069CS3 LG Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine.
Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal.
Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting.
I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal.
I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing.
This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.

Pretty straight forward video located on YouTube. Video is about 30 min long. Watched it for an overview and did it myself being mechanically inclined.

When to utube typed in my problem, very easy fix

I tipped the right side of the washer up 9.5 inches using two 2x4s and I was able to remove and replace the old hose with the tools described.

Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.

Remove old one and replace. Just make sure it is all the way on and secure or you will have a huge mess on your hands.

Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.

Pull the washer away from the wall to get behind it. Unplug the electrical power cord from the wall. I removed the top cover by unscrewing the 2 screws on the back of the washer. Slide the cover back about 1-2 inches towards the back of the washer and then lift the cover up and remove. It might be a little tight to slide back, you may need to wiggle the cover side to side or give it a good smack. The water inlet valve is directly at the top inside of the washer. I saw a slow leak dripping from the hot water inlet valve onto the back side of the drum. Turn off the water supply valve at the wall and then unscrew the supply water hose from the water inlet valve at the back of the washer. Disconnect the electrical connector and water hose from the inlet valve inside the washer. From the outside of the washer on the back, remove the screws holding the water valve and lift out the valve. Install in reverse order.

Unplugged the washer,removed the rear cover, removed the old rotor assembly & installed the new rotor with thread lock on the retaining bolt.

pulled off top of washer to get at the inlet valve disconnect two hoses take two screws out and then you put it back together the way you took apart and your done

Unplug Washing machine first. Then remove 2 screws at the back of the top cover. Slide the top cover back then lift and remove. Unplug electrical connector @ inlet valve and remove water lines 1 going in and 1 out of valve. Remove 2 screws holding assembly in place then install new valve assembly and all other components in reverse order.

I removed the top off the washer, unplugged from the electrical, removed the three hoses and wiring plugs, removed the two screws holding the valve assembly in place, and replaced the part with the new. It was a very simple swap, and I even found a video on YouTube on how to replace it.

removed top, removed 2 screws, replace part. did not fix problem, the real problem was the water inlet valve, works great, easy fix. thanks

Super easy to find the part thanks to their diagrams. This fix was easy but I would definitely use this site again.

I ran the spin & drain cycle to empty the drum,I waited to be see how long it took to see a noticeable level of water in the drum (1-2hrs).decided to check the cold water valve first.Found that there was rust forming around the solnoid piston,making it hang up,most of the time it tryed to open, or close. cleaned with light sand paper(piston), and ordered part with parts select. Which was real easy,because of the knowledgeable staff,parts came in as promised,and in good shape,and most important of all it was the exact replacement part. My wife is HAPPY,which makes my life good too! THANKS Parts select..