GCWL1069CS1 LG Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

new pump was a little different ,but mounted properly. Tipped washer on its side, changed pump by working trough bottom and back access. It went pretty smoothly, works fine.

Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.

The difficult part was finding the leak since it was very small and the washer was completely wet around the frame at the bottom. After completely drying everything off and waiting an hour-nothing.I had assumed the leak was in the bottom area around the hoses when actually the leak was the cold water valve[top rear] seeping,then dripping on the drum and dripping onto the frame 8 inches away.I ordered the valve about 10:30am online, the next day at 1pm it arrived. Very easy to install in 15 minutes.

Hot water valve was leaking when washer was not in use and flooded floor. Advised owner to replace hit and cold water valve same time since only hot valve was bad. Hot water was easy but cold was difficult because it has the bleach and softener valve attached in one unto with three hoses and three wire connections. The opening at back of machine was small and you must have small hands to replace them. If not, then you have to remove top cover to get to it which is extensive.

First I turned off the hot and cold water supply and removed the water lines from the back of the machine. I then unscrewed the 2 phillips head screws on the back of the washer for the cover. I slid the cover back and lifted it off the machine. Next, I unscrewed the mounting screws from each inlet valve assemble located on the back of the machine by the hose connections. I used pliers to pull the hose clamps back from the inlet valve, 1 at a time, then reconnected each hose and clamp on the new inlet valve. Once each hose was connected to the new inlet valve, I discarded the old inlet valves. I then re-attached each inlet valve. I placed the cover back on the machine and secured with the 2 screws, re-attached the water supply hoses to the hot and cold side and turned the hot and cold water supply back on. Everything successful, no leaks, and washing laundry again..........leak free!

Extremely easy--remove two screws in the back of washer connect elec. connections one at a time connect cold water lines one at a time and replace the two screws ion the back and you are done. Took longer to pull washer out from wall and push back than it did to replace part. Saved me $75.

The bellows hose on the bottom of the tube had worn through where it flexed. This was an easy job except for the long reach you had to make under the washer to reach the hose clamps that held the part in place. These were spring loaded clamps which were easy to remove with pliers. I replaced them with ones that could be tightened with a socket wrench since it was hard to replace the sprung clamps.

Disconnect electric and remove top cover and remove connectors and hoses then the valves

This was very easy to instal. The aplaiance repair co. wanted $240 my LG is six years old and would rather buy a new one if I had to spend that much, so I gave it a shot and it took me 20 min to install the part. Told my wife she owed me $ 180 for my labor.

It was so easy. i searched my model it brought up this site and the most common problem popped up without my even asking and recommended the part. i got it one week later and it was so simple to fix. a repair man wanted three times the part price to come to my home twice and would have had to wait longer. you guys were very helpful

took out the drain pump and replace with a new one

Our washer and dryer was stacked, and had to remove the dryer to access top of washer. This took 2 people and was not difficult due to the 168 lb weight of the dryer. Turned of water, pulled washer away from wall and disconnected the supply hoses. Removed the 2 screws holding the top, slipped it back and removed. Removed the 2 screws holding the inlet valve assembly, unplugged the wiring harness from the 3 solenoids, disconnected the 3 hoses from the hose bibs on the valves. Mounted new valve assembly, connected hoses making sure that clamps did not touch any other hoses, reconnected wiring harness, turned on water to check for any leaks, put top back on and tried washer out. Changing the valve assembly took a total of 15 minutes. Really simple. The You tube video very helpful in determining how to do the job.

Hardest part was getting the correct part. Due to some glitch somewhere there was a mix up in the database for the correct pump number. This unit has two pumps mounted to the same housing. One is a recirculating pump and one is discharge pump. I ordered the discharge pump and kept receiving the recirculating pump. Discharge pump is LG PART#4681EA2001T and recirculating pump is LG PART #4681EA2002H Once in hand the install went fairly smoothly. Removed top - two screws on back of unit. Removed control panel with one screw on upper right inside corner, associated plugs and snap clips. Removed soap tray and drained water through filter tube. Removed screws in front of filter. Using Vise grips stretched spring from around front seal. Removed screws holding front of washer to top frame (2?)[accessed after soap tray removal]. Pump assembly located in bottom left, removed associated hoses, Marked wired colors on pump housings and removed. Removed assembly. Unscrewed pump, installed new pump and reversed procedure to reassemble. Struggled mostly with replacing spring around front seal. Stretch it as far apart as you can as you "roll" the spring in and then massage the seal to get the spring into correct position. Definitely a doable repair. Good Luck.

Did the repair entirely from the back.- 4 screws back cover comes off. Once you see the Bellows it is obvious what needs to come off and there are other videos on the net showing this. The main things I did differently were 1) Leaned the washer forward and placed 3 2x4 blocks of wood under each back leg. This allowed me to reach under the washer with one hand, and through the back with the other. You need both hands in there ! 2) Uninstalling is easy with just pliers. But on the way back in, I used a pair of Locking Pliers to keep the circular clamp squeezed as much as possible. That seemed the only way to get the bellows back in. Another option would be to switch to screw on Pipe clamps instead of the spring clamps.

Took dryer from stack to floor removed top of washer and front . replaced water valve at top rear @ motor on bottom front left . It was pretty darn easy ..