970-C90862-00 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Took the drum out, saw that the top part, drum guide was wore and three plastic guides were wore plus broken. Called Partselect to order part and they recommended the replacement of Lower basket seal. Which made sense once we looked at it.

The parts arrived with regular shipping in two days.

Had to remove the worn parts. Make sure the old glue is removed and the service is clean before installing new guide and seal. They include glue with the packet.

We put the new parts on and using finger pressure made sure the guide and seal fit firmly to the drum. We let it sit over night and put the drum back in the next day.

While we were at it the dryer received a thorough cleaning around the parts you cannot get to when the drum is installed.

The dryer now works fine.

First, I would like to thank PartSelect for the great video. It gave me courage to see how simple it was to do a dryer repair. Also, all the repair stories helped tremendously. Thanks to all of you for sharing your story!

I could tell the top glide and lower basket seal were worn because I could wiggle the door end of the basket up and down.

The repair was simple. I raised the top by inserting a putty knife between the top and front to release the retaining clips. Then, I unplugged the two wires from the front. I removed the two screws from the upper-inside of the front to loosen it. I inserted a flat screwdriver between the side and the front to release the side retaining clips. The front came right off.

I put the top on a raised stand to make it convenient to work on. With a pencil, I marked the two points where the upper glide/seal and the lower seal met. Then I pulled off the seals and scraped the remaining seal residue with a small putty knife. A screwdriver or chisel would work well also. I also used a little lacquer to remove the remaining glue. I applied the glue to the front panel and installed one seal at a time (there's plenty of glue in the tube for both seals) I clamped the seals to the front panel with some clothes pins and let them dry for 30 minutes. This gave me time to vacuum the inside of the dryer. Installation of the front took just a few minutes.

The dryer works GREAT ! It took me a little under 2 hours to do the repair but I really took my time to make sure everything was done right and fitted properly. Easy repair.

Removed the door, Then panel underneath. Then removed the dryer front panel. Cleaned old felt seal from entire surface, then glued new parts on. Supplied tube of glue was enough to do top and bottom. Afte reassembling, plugged back in and tried it. Worked just like new again

Followed video instructions that were emailed by you.

The online descriptions were very helpful. I used a wooden kitchen fork to pry open the top of the dryer from the front, about 3 inches in from each side. Two metal springs hold the lid. The wire harness was on the right and two disconnects were easy to separate. Remember to disconnect power before you start. On the inside on the left and right sides are two screws which hold the front on. Remove these screws and the front panel will lean forward. Remember to support the drum as you pull the front off. Remove both top and bottom felt seals. I used a putty knife to aid in the removal of seals. Scrap the residue with the putty knife to remove. Run a bead of glue all around and let set for two minutes. Place top drum guide on first, and center on top. Put lower felt seal on next and tie a rope all around on top of felt, to hold in place while glue dries. Let dry for 30 minutes and remove the rope. Reassembly dryer. Test on low heat. It really is easy to do. Celebrate.

First I have to say that the video on the Parts Select website was invaluable, it truly made the replacement a no brainer. The kit came with everything I need and was a great price.

Unplug the dryer, mine is a stackable so we had to remove the dry from the top of the washer. I then followed the instructions from the video. The only real difference was that my dryer is that is has dual direction tumbling, so there were 2 idler arms instead of one to move in order to un hook the belt. was pretty easy.

I only needed my husband's help a couple of times because 1. To get the dryer off of the washer. And 2. I didn’t have the reach to install the new bearing on the back of the drum.

We followed the video exactly. The video itself was simple and straight forward. Our model was a bit different than the video's example. The video's example had their spring action for the belt configured differently. When we finally figured out the difference, we were able to finish the job within minutes. The dryer now runs like new. We aren't mechanically inclined. That's why it took us so long. I still would recommend this company to anyone because it saved us time and money. The video really helps!

I popped the dryer top off by lifting up on the front edge, then removed two screws that held the from pannel on, then pulled out on the top of the front pannel, and lifted the front pannel off the machine. the toughest part was scrapping the old felt glue residue off the rim. I used a single edged razor blade tool, and a 3/4 inch chissel. After that it's just applying the glue that came with the top slide, sticking on the felt, and clamping it for a few minutes. Reassemble and done. I will say that the instructions on the felt say that the painted surface on the dryer drum should be intact, and the paint on mine was worn off, and a bit rusted. I initially thought that the dryer was burning the tip of cloths, but I think the marks were rust marks. My hope is that the new felt will stop the cloths from getting into the drum slide: time will tell.

I have a frigidaire dryer about 5 years old.

I first removed the top cover being careful to watch how the wires to the controls are connected. It is best to snap photos with your digital camera so you can remember how to reconnect the wires.

Pulling up on the drum, I lifted it out of the rear sleeve. Once out, you could easily see why it squealed. The metal bearing had groves on it where is made contact with the holder.

The difficult part of this was getting the 3 screws that hold the bearing to the drum off. The phillips screw head was easily marred if you don't have the proper screw driver bit. I think a better screw head would make the job easier.

After removal, the replacement was a snap. When everything was back together, the dryer sounded like new. The job took me about 2 hrs due to the hard part of removing the screws.

Removed top panel - disconnected harness from front panel- removed front panel- removed access door to belt tensioner on back panel - took belt off tensioner- removed drum removed upper felt with worn glide pads from front panel - removed most of old glue from panel (small file) and glued on new felt strip with glide pads - let sit to cure removed three phillips screws holding rear brg to the drum and removed brg - removed two phillips screws from rear panel holding plastic bracket, supporting bracket and back clip to the rear panel and replaced with new (use a drop of grease to hold the little ball brg in place during installation, make sure you don't loose it) install new brg to the drum (since they are self cutting screw difficult to install throught he drum, I "pre-cut" one of the threads then installed the rear brg to the drum, screw driver was of ratched type with a long extension - filled the plastic bracket with the grease - installed drum and front panel - tensioned the belt - installed top panel and access rear panel - done - I used the opprtunity to vaccum the interior of the dryer, lot of lint ----------------------------------------------------------------- there is a plastic guide on top of the heating elements which is burnt and should have been replaced but I could not find it in a catalogue. Anybody any idea? Also instructions for glide say to check the paint on the drum, what if it is damaged or gone?

The part arrived just in the nick of time as my wife and daughter had strung up rope all over the family room to dry clothes. My son helped me lower the dryer to floor level ( this is a stackable washer/dryer set) Removed the top and front of cabinet. Removed the belt and popped out the drum. Took this opportunity to clean the amazing amount of lint from the blower housing and discharge hose ( it is my opinion that the accumulation of lint and the subsequent rise in operating temperature is the main cause of this bearing failure) Removed and replaced the rear bearing and greased it. Reassembled the drum,installed the belt and reassembled the cabinet. the only tools used were a screwdriver and a nut driver....and of course a vacuum cleaner. The rebuild kit is very complete and is the only way to go. Thanks for your fast delivery time, one more clothes line in the family room and I wouldn't be able to watch T.V.

Followed online video. All went smooth. Runs great!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This was for my Daughter's dryer. A helper really makes this quick and easy. First of all-UNPLUG the unit from the wall. I pried the top up with flat screwdriver. Laid the top back against wall. Removed the two wires from the door cut-off switch. Then removed the two screw attaching the front to the cabinet. Removed the small access panel on back of cabinet. Depressed the belt tensioner to release pressure on the leather drive belt. Went back to front, pushed the belt to the rear of cabinet, then lifted the back of drum to pop the bearing up and out of the plastic cup. I then tilted the drum forward and down and removed through front of cabinet. Reached inside the drum with Phillips screwdriver, removing the two screws to realease the bearing and BB bracket from back of drum. I attached the new bearing cup with BB to the back of cabinet, filling the cup with the high temp grease provided in the cup. Before installing the new bearing on the drum, I ran the new screws into and back out of the new bearing to cut the threads, making it easier to attach on the drum. I then put the drum back into the cabinet popping the bearing into the top of the plastic cup. Next I went to the back, put a bit of grease on the shaft that the tensioner bearing rides on. I re-set the belt on the tensioner, making sure the belt was back in the original position around the drum. I then re-attached the front cabinet centering the front of the drum on the felt. This felt supports the front of the drum. I manually gave the drum a few turns to make sure the drum was centered properly, and belt was mounted correctly. I then re-attached the two wires to the door switch. Slid the dryer into position, inserted the plug back into the outlet. Turmed it on, and now the dryer runs like new again. My Daughter is happy again. You will want to have a vac handy because it is unbelievable how much lint and dust are in the cabinet. I also took the filter bracket apart and cleaned it too.

Taking it apart was no problem other than having to remove solidified grease in order to remove bearing. Also I found it easier to remove belt by removing screws holding drum in place first. Putting it back together was more involved. Taping metal strip to back with scotch tape made putting in new bracket a breeze. Tipping dryer on its' back was the only way I could get the screw holes to line up when installing the drum. Removing the vent cover, and installing from the back, made re-installing the belt tensioner much easier.

Removed two screws from back of dryer, and then I used a screw driver to release clips in fron and removed top. Removed two screws from front and disconnected wiring harness. Removed old drum glide and basket seal, used a chisel to scrape sleal off. Installed new glide and seal and put it back together. I wish I would have replaced belt, bearing, and Idler wheel right away.