11080754003 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place and the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story

First I unscrewed two screws holding the back panel. Unscrewed the screws holding the water valve onto the back panel. With a screwdriver, pried the panel out far enough to pull the old water inlet valve out. Remove the connections on the old valve and replace with the new one. Screw everything back together. Fairly easy repair. Cold water flows like new and the noise is gone. Hope to get another few years out of the washer for this $25 fix.

Followed the instructions. Removed two screws on front panel, flipped it up and popped up the retainer clips. Tipped the washer body forward. Unscrewed the old valve and replaced with the new. Reversed the previous procedures and put the whole thing back together. I had put up with this low flowing water for a couple years. Now it fills like new!

Take out softener dispenser. Then take off sealing cam that sits over the cams. Removed center bolt for the agitator and pulled assembly out. Installation was in reverse order.

I popped the dispenser cap off, pulled off the plastic cover that sits on top of the agitator directional cogs assembly, and used a socket wrench with 2 extensions on it to unscrew the nut holding the assembly in place. I misplaced my socket screwdriver and rather than try to buy a nutdriver that matched the size, I just bought a little 3/8" socket extension kit (I needed about 8" of length to be able to use a normal socket wrench). My hands are pretty big so I just had to use pliers to pull the agitator cogs assembly out. Next I just turned the assembly upside down, slipped the plastic ring off that holds the cogs in place, and put the new cogs in place of the old ones. Reassembly was just as easy. The job took about 15 minutes, and once everything was back together the agitator worked like it was brand new.

Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off.

That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in order

The replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.

Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.

My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.

I removed the top cap of the agitator which is actually the fabric softener dispenser.It comes off by hand.Under that was some type of a cap or a seal like piece of plastic.Also removed by hand.Under that I saw a 9/16 bolt head.I took that out with a socket set and a couple of extentions.Now I was able to remove the cup shapped part called the AGITATOR CAM ASSEMBLY. In this part are three comma shapped pieces of plastic.Sorta looked just like a big cashew nut.On these pieces there are little teeth which when working properly will swing out just a bit and lock into the agitator itself and this is what makes it move back and forth(or agitate). Well the teeth on mine were rounded off and would not grab the agitator.So I go to this stores web site by doing a GOOGLE search for my machines model number and this GREAT web site had an exploded view of my machine showing the exact parts by name and number that I needed.Great price ,supper fast delivery.Really I had these parts within 5 days of placing the order.I put them in and it went back together just as easy as it came apart.I called it a bit difficult because I had no idea how to take apart a washing machine and I didn't know what I was looking for when I got in there.I got lucky.

There are 4 tabs that come from the main agitator body through the center & lock into the centerpiece that holds the directional cogs. They have a tab similar to a cable tie that can only be put on once. They need to be clipped before it will dissassemble & reassembly is difficult because they need to be timed to reattach the round center cog plate. Maybe cut off 2 of them & taper the other 2 them for easier reassembly.

Stopped by a friend who is an appliance repair person. He walked me through the Roper repair.
Removed the two screws, pulled the control panel up and back, disconnected the two wires. Sprung the two clips with a large screwdriver. That gave me the room I needed to do the repair. The hardest part was lining up the cover to go back on level. Part worked perfect, everyone was happy.

After the wife held the phone to the washer so I could hear the horrendous noise it was making. And I screaming at her "shut it off, shut it off!' I came home and took the agitator apart, and found the directional dogs worn out. Went to the computer and easily ordered new parts, which came very quickly. I took off the agitator with a long extension and socket, put in the new dogs and reversed for installation. Told the wife get back to doing the laundry!

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

Just watched the video. Take from a 63 year old. Who never fixed a washer. Thx a lot for the video it saved me a lot of money being on a fix income. and it was less than $ 10 that was included shipping.

Unplugged it. Removed the two screws holding the panel on. This model had the screws on the front. Unplugged the wire harness and tipped the control panel back. I popped off the clips for the cabinet and slid it off the frame. On the back of the washing machine, I unscrewed two screws that held the water inlet valve in place. I unhooked the two wire harnesses on the inlet valve. Slid the clamp on the small hose back and pulled the hose off the inlet valve. Once I had the old part off, it was just a matter of doing it all in reverse. I did have to screw the metal plate that came with the part onto the part before I installed it. I put the small hose onto the new inlet valve and slid the clamp back in place on the hose. Put the new valve through the holes on the back of the machine, and replaced the two screws. Click the two wire harnesses back on, making sure to put the RED harness on the HOT valve (the holes have the stamp H and C on the back of the machine itself. Slid the cabinet back into place. Put the wire harness back on. Replaced the cabinet retainer clips. Slid the control panel back into the slots and replaced the two screws for it. That was it. All told it took me 15 minutes total. This was an extremely easy repair.