41797802790 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Got the washer used. Agitation was okay, but the screw part of the agitator was very weak and kept slipping, so bought a replacement agitator. This DID NOT fix the problem, it remained the same. Watched a video on this site about the part under the agitator, whereupon we saw there was supposed to be a washer on top of the spike-thing where you screw the agitator down. THAT was the problem. That washer was missing, and when we replaced it, the agitation was fixed! Very much appreciate this site.

Removed top cover.
Lowered control assembly.
Removed front door assembly.
Removed drum.
Removed heater assembly.
Removed support bearing and bracket using existing bonding ball.
Re-assembled in reverse order.

Unplugged unit. Proceeded to remove front and back covers. Took drum unit out after loosening belt, unplugged wire plug from motor. Removed belt tightening unit. Removed screws holding motor to plate. Took lint catcher unit out of front then removed motor and fan unit combination through front. Reversed procedure. Mounted fan combo motor unit. Put drum in place at front and suspended back part of drum with homemade wire hook. Put belt around drum, then put back cover back in place, removed wire hook and secured back panel. Installed belt tightened. Put lint catcher unit in. Replaced front covers. Procedure was challenging since dryer was part of stack unit. Probably could have left lint catcher unit in and just removed motor fan unit from back.

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap

Very easy to install. Unscrew 2 screws and I was done in minutes. Thanks for the fast part delivery!

I read the last three peoples experiences when I ordered the part on your on line page. I had already made all the wrong mistakes taking the machine apart, and couldn't beleive how simplified it was on your web site. I had called a local repair shop only to be advised the part would take 4 days shipping and the price of it plus shipping was twice what I paid you. Your part arrived the day after I ordered it on line, Thanks again for being there!!!!!

Tensioner (pulley spring) replacement.

The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.

First, I unplugged the washer then removed the front panel to the washing machine, then the pump cover, then the two hoses connected to the pump, draining them into a small bowl. I removed the ground wire and electrical connections.

Then I removed the two bolts holding down the pump and removed it. I had to pivot the hose connections on the pump to match the old one. Once I did this, I removed the hold-down bracket from the old pump and installed it on the replacement pump.

Getting the hoses clamped back on the new pump was a challenge, and I finally used an automotive clamp on the rear hose. Once the hoses were connected, I bolted the pump back in, reconnected the power and ground connections and replaced the cover.

Overall, it was a fairly straightforward installation and the only challenging part was the hose clamps.

With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain hose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.

Removed drum replaced bearing with kit, replaced both front drum seals and drive belt. The only problem was when replacing the rear drum ball the three screw holes were poorly tapped and took several tries to get them in. The manufacturers could easily fix this problem. They could provide self tapping hex head screws instead of the Phillips head screws. Everything else went very smoothly.

Don’t do like I did and undo the drummer from the back of that thing pulled off the bearing

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.

First of all, the folks at Part Select have been terrific. I balled up my address and they were great in correcting my error and getting the parts promptly to me. They provide directions with the parts. And You Tube, is a wealth of information too. The process is to remove the drum and replace the nylon busihing that supports the drum at the back of the machine. Getting it out was no sweat. Getting the drum back in was a bit more challenging single handed. If I was going to make any suggestion it would be this is a good project for two sets of hands with the second set needed for about ten minutes. The You Tube video I watched said putting the front cover with the drum attached to the back of the unit would be the challenge and they were right. Otherwise, super easy and the results are it's back to "new" condition. Thanks again to Part Select!

The disassembly was very easy and it appeared that this would be a very quick repair. But the removal of the old felt was difficult and once it was removed it took a lot of effort to remove the bits still stuck on. The tool of choice to remove the stuck on felt was a small torch. After that use a coarse sand paper to remove the remnants. Glue on the new felt and reinstall the front panel.