GUD27ESPM1DG General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

unplugged old switch and installed new one. it took 5 minutes to do. 20.00 saved me 400.00 on a new washer.

Switch off the circuit breaker supplying power to the dishwasher.

Remove the 6 screws that hold the plastic face of the inside of the dishwasher door, and lift out the inside liner. This may be a good time to wash it down, as it is probably a little messy. It may also be a good idea to put something a little heavy onto the door to keep it laying in the open position as the springs will keep lifting it back up.

Remove the screw holding the spring device down over the interlock switches and the thin plastic cover and put aside ready for re-installing again later. The spring may have flattened a bit and it may be a good idea to bend the end open, just a little, to give it back some tension. This is the spring that activates the interlock switches when you latch the door.

Unclip the faulty Interlock Switch by pushing (with your fingers) the little plastic clip holding it in and lifting it out of its cradle. If the switch to be replaced is the one furthest from the machine (or nearest the top of the door) you will have to take the bottom one out first so that the clip can be released.

Using small pliers pull the electric connectors off the faulty switch and reconnect to the new switch in the same way that the faulty one was wired.

Snap the switch (or switches) back into place in the cradle.

Replace the spring activator along with the plastic sheeting and screw that back in.

Put the inside of the now clean door back down into place, making sure the on/off lever is inserted through the slot in the front of the door, and that the piece of Styrofoam is inserted back into position.

Screw the screws back in, starting with the one at the top center nearest the on/off lever and then work your way down the sides from top to bottom.

Switch the circuit breaker back on and give it a whirl. Enjoy!

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.

Turned off gas and unplugged power. Removed gas line and vent tube. Removed the light bulb. Took the door off. Removed two screws from the top, inside part of the door jamb and removed the top, but not the control panel. Removed the front panel. I took a picture of the wiring that leads to the light to ensure proper reconnection. Unhooked the belt from the tension bar and removed the belt, then pulled the drum out. The cycling thermostat is held in place by 2 "wings" and pressure. Removed connections from old and installed on the new. Snapped the new cycling thermostat in place. Then reversed the order to reinstall everything. Drum, belt around drum then tensioner, connected light wiring, installed the front panel, ensuring proper alignment on the felt in the lower bearing. Installed the top and screwed it back on the front panel. Reinstalled door. Reinstalled the light bulb. Using NEW gas line plumbers tape, installed the gas hose. Installed the vent tube. Have done at least 10 loads of laundry with no problems.

very easy

Your site offered a video tutorial that removed any anxiety about doing the repair correctly. Removed front of dryer, disconnected wire assembly going to the front, replaced seal in seconds, returned dryer to original set up. simple. luckily. very easy to use website.

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Wife was out of town, visiting family. I broke the door strike by wedging the dryer door between the laundry room door, closed the laundry room door and it snapped the door strike breaking it. I ordered the part, and it shipped fast using the standard shipping, nothing fancy. Grabbed a pair of pliers and pushed the new door strike into place. It snapped right in, fits and works perfect like nothing ever happened. The wife will never know :)

Watch the video on how to replace the belt on PartSelct site belt installation page.

The repair was easy. First I took out 2 screws. Then I lifted off the top. Next I unscrewed 2 to take off front. I leaned off the front and reached in got out old gasket. Replacing new gasket went right around top front panel under the clips. Putting front on and returning 2 screws. Then Same for top. Dryer runs and sounds like new. Thank You for your quick mail and easy help?

Removing the top and then the front of the dryer went fairly easily after finding the screws. The drum came out with just a little coaxing, does not gets screwed in place. To me the trickiest maneuver was getting my hand under the drum to place the belt over motor pulley and around the tensioner pulley. You must look up an image of the belt routing. It took me forever to figure that out. If not for that, this in a half hr fix. Ps don't forget to unplug the dryer.

replaced felt on inside door that drum rides on

inserted the latch into the opening in the front face of the dryer