FLSG72GCS6 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

removed top and front panel on stackable dyer unit. 3 screws at back of the inside of the drum, and the drum was out. installed new bearing and belt and all was good.

i left my washer on its back till my belt came in and when it did all i had to do is slip the front off and go at it. it was really fast. then i put the front back on screwed in two screws and hooked up hoses and started washing everything went smooth till i was about to wash wash-n-wear and was like where is my other houseshoe and i remember my dog was bugging me while fixing my washer and dropped my house shoe and i already closed up front soi had to unhook everything and get that out, did not want it to catch on that belt i just bought and fixed lol thanks kristal cumpton

remove top cover, remove front of dryer, unscrew two #2 screws from gas valve coil hol down bracket. replace coils. reassemble dryer.. works great.. had already replaced the thermostate and flame sensor.. didn't change anything.. the coil set did the trick..

1 Unplug the dryer and Raise top up by releasing the clips and fold back to expose the drum. 2. Take Phillips head screw driver and remove two screws inside the front dryer panel and then take flathead screwdriver to pop out both sides and set aside. 3. Lay on your stomach and reach inside to the belt pulley and push right so the belt will release then stand to either side of dryer and grab the belt and lift the drum up out of its bracket. 4. Go to the front and pull the drum out and replace the Rear Drum Bearing Kit . 5. Grab the front panel and remove the Top dryer guide and replace to match evenly with the bottom dryer guide by cutting at least 1/8 -1/4" from felt and use High temp adhesive to glue down. 6. Replace everything in order that was taken apart and reconnect electrical plug and start dryer.

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

This repair is realy very easy
As discribed by the others

Customer responses / directions were great nothing to add - except no where does anyone mention "high temperature grease" for the Drum Support Bearing - only on the video is it mentioned numerous times. I honestly think it took longer to vacuum out all the lint then it did to do the repairs.

Unplugged unit. Proceeded to remove front and back covers. Took drum unit out after loosening belt, unplugged wire plug from motor. Removed belt tightening unit. Removed screws holding motor to plate. Took lint catcher unit out of front then removed motor and fan unit combination through front. Reversed procedure. Mounted fan combo motor unit. Put drum in place at front and suspended back part of drum with homemade wire hook. Put belt around drum, then put back cover back in place, removed wire hook and secured back panel. Installed belt tightened. Put lint catcher unit in. Replaced front covers. Procedure was challenging since dryer was part of stack unit. Probably could have left lint catcher unit in and just removed motor fan unit from back.

I read the last three peoples experiences when I ordered the part on your on line page. I had already made all the wrong mistakes taking the machine apart, and couldn't beleive how simplified it was on your web site. I had called a local repair shop only to be advised the part would take 4 days shipping and the price of it plus shipping was twice what I paid you. Your part arrived the day after I ordered it on line, Thanks again for being there!!!!!

Very easy to install. Unscrew 2 screws and I was done in minutes. Thanks for the fast part delivery!

Tensioner (pulley spring) replacement.

The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.

Determined that the coil on the gas valve wasn't pulling in to ignite. Using an ohmmeter, I determined the coil was open. The coil was removed by pulling off the wire connecter and removing the two phillips screws holding the bracket over the two coils. The coil then slides out. I slid the new coil into place, replaced the bracket and two screws and reconnected the wire connector. It worked immediately. The actual repair only took 15 minutes. The bulk of the time was spent tracking down which part had failed.

I first thought I needed to purchase a new washer/dryer and in fact, I ordered new appliances. But then I tried using pliers to set the timing on the dryer and was able to get the dryer to work and thought I'd try to buy a new knob. I cancelled the order for the new washer/dryer and in several days I received the replacement part. The new part worked perfectly and instead of spending $1,800 for a new washer/dryer, my 15 year old appliance worked perfectly. All I had to do was put the new knob in place (no tools required!) and I was all set. Very happy with my purchase. The knob, including shipping, handling & tax cost close to $50, but it was much better than spending $1,800!

With prep work mentioned below and a good flashlight it takes about 15 to 30 minutes if you're a good handy-man. If you're not, get a neighbor or friend who is. This repair isn't rocket science, but does take a some mechanical aptitude. This unit is a washer/dryer combo unit. Unplug power cord and remove water supply hoses, the drain hose and dryer vent if required to obtain easy access to front panel. There is water in all the lines, so have some towels and a small gallon bucket to help drain the lines if disconnected. Remove two screws on bottom of front panel. Be sure there is about 2 inches from washer/dryer to floor in front to allow front panel to drop directly down, then pull panel out lightly. Wood spacers or similar are recommended under front feet to prop-up front of washer. (There are two tabs on each side of the front panel. The panel must be pulled straight down to clear tabs). Another option is tilt back the washer/dryer about 60 to 75 degrees unit to make the front panel more accessible if all is disconnected in back and you have the room to do so. Once the front panel srews are removed, you may have to place an object (thin pry bar or screw driver) between the top of the washer unit and the front panel for release (be careful not to dent or scratch the top metal or front panel. Remove front panel and set aside. Locate belt near bottom and tensioner pulley (it moves back and forth laterally), push in tensioner pulley to relieve pressure on belt and remove belt from small pully wheel at motor, then the large drum pulley wheel. Place new belt on large pulley first, then small pulley. Push in tensioner pulley and move middle of belt to the inside of the tension pulley to take up the slack. This process is somewhat hard. It takes good hand strength. Be sure the belt is aligned in pulley grooves. Place washer/dryer back in level position, re-attach water supply hoses, drain hose, dryer vent line and power cord, if removed for repair. Check for leaks in water supply lines and be certain the drain hose is well attached to the drain pipe. (This is a good time to clean or replace the dryer vent line to prevent possible lint fires.) Plug in washer/dryer unit and test as if washing a small load. Re-install front panel after successful test in run operation. The part came quickly and fit perfectly.

Raise the top and remove the front panel assembly. One philips screw, 24mm gas line coupler and 3 electrical connectors frees the burner assembly. Slid the old igniter out and the new one in.2 philips screws to remove the coil retainer and replace the coils.