RBS305PVB04 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!

Had no problem replacing the glass it took my Husband and I less than 30 min. It took only a screw driver and that's it. Very easy

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

screwed in the new oven light

Removed the over door and set aside on the countertop. Removed the screws from the frame, pulled the oven out and set it on a small bench. Removed the burned out Thermal Overload Safety Thermostat. Replace it with the new TOST. Put the oven in place and secured the oven with the screws to the frame. Put the door on. Made sure it was set right. Turned on the oven heating element and it worked. Then Turned on the broiler heating element and it worked. And that was that. All done and working right.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

Removed oven from the wall. Take off back panel. Removed thermal overload thermostat. Replaced with new part and works great.

First thing you must do is remove door from oven, to do this there are locks on the hinges, lift them up. Next put door into an upright position with door opened about two inches, lift up and pull away from oven. Lay door on flat surface with inside of door facing up. there are two screws at to of door and two screws at bottom of door remove them place to side. next there are four more screws on each corner of the inside of door, they also need to be removed. this will cause the inside and outside of door to come apart. Hold door together and flip over, be careful. remove outside of door put to side. there is a bracket at the bottom with two screws remove, and remove bracket. There is a bracket at top with one screw remove. there are two pieces of glass be careful remove the two pieces of glass to get to the broken piece. Clean broken glass be careful not to cut yourself. Remember how you removed everything to put back together, do everything in reverse. Good luck, it's not that bad.

Removed the door from the unit. Set the door face down on a work surface. Remove the screws and put them in a separate place from the rest of the screws (They are a different style of screw). Turn the door back over. Remove the two clips at the bottom on the door. The door front will slide down. Set the door front off to the side with the two clips and the screws. Remove the screws securing the brackets for the next level of glass (Mark which it the top and which is the bottom bracket. Place the glass, brackets and screws together. Remove the next glass/bracket assembly and set it aside with the screws. Lift the inside metal glass retainer and set it aside. Remove the old glass and install the new glass and reverse the order of the disassembly process.

Hardest part was getting the oven door off. Since I bought this house with oven already in place, I had no owner's manual. Tried to get it off with tips found on this site, no go. Went online and found the manual which said to insert allen wrench in holes in hinge, then lift up FROM THE BOTTOM. That is the key. Got door off, then found that replacing the inner glass is a multi step process that starts with the outside door, then multiple brackets to the next inside glass, then more braces to next glass, then finally you are at the broken (inside) glass.My advice would be to take pictures on cell phone or whatever of each level, so you know what goes where when you put it all back. I figured it out but would be faster with a picture. Anyway, got all together and the oven works fine, door looks great!.