CWE4200ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Turn off the electricity for the oven from the switch box. Unsure the damaged element from the unit. Pull it forward and unplug connections. Then plug the new element and use the new screws to screw it back to the unit. That's all

Turned breaker off to oven, removed two screws disconnected two wires. Reversed order to install. Piece of cake. Stuart,in va.

I TURNED THE POWER OFF !!! removed the two screws holding the element in place, disconnected the two power wires, installed the new element. Done, in less than five minutes.

Unscrewed old element from back of oven, disconnected and reinserted new element and screwed back into place. Voila! So glad to have saved the cost of a repairman. Where I live this would have been a $200 repair(part and service call) easily. This repair took no time at all. Very please as to how fast Parts service got the part to me. I use my oven a lot, so I was lost without it.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

The instructions reviewed in the Maytag Parts web site provided very good information that told me how to remove and replace the heating element. It took me about 15 minutes to complete the replacement. The oven then began to function properly.

I am impressed with the rate I was sent the replacement. I received the replacement within 24 hours after I submitted the request for the product.

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

I made the mistake of thinking that, if the oven was off, there would be no voltage to the heating element. Wrong! I removed the element, wearing rubber gloves just for safety, and had no problem. But when I put the wiring back on the new element and tried to slide it into the hole at the back of the oven, one of the wires brushed the metal, sparks flew, and melted one of the wires. Even though the oven was off, this wire was hot. The solution was, of course, just to turn off the circuit breaker, reconnect the wire, and slide the element back in. It works fine now.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

Removed broiler element and replaced it with new element.
Part I received from partselect was a perfect match which made for a easy installation.