CWE4200ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

I installed the new racks

First, I left the new part on the kitchen counter for a couple of days. To my surprise, NOT, my husband didn't take the bait.

With no other options I took control. First I turned off the power to the wall oven, unscrewed the bracket at the back of the oven which holds the broiler in place. Then I unscrewed the brace on the top of the the oven, pulled the element out, unhooked the connectors for the old, connected the new, and slid broiler into the brace. Screwed that down then pushed wires and connectors back and screwed bracket in place. Turned power back on and tested - works great.

Still don't think my husband's noticed a thing. Somethings are just better left unsaid.

Shut off electricity to oven. Remove existing screws attaching element to back wall of oven. Use pliers to pull off wire connectors. To install the new element, reverse these steps. It's that simple.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Followed example your provided- excellent guidance.

unplugged oven. removed 2 screws that hold the sensor in place, then removed the dozen or so screws that hold on the rear panel, unplugged sensor and fed wire through insulation. identified and installed correct harness adapter then fed new wire and connecter through insulation and connected to adapter. installed sensor retaining screws.plugged oven back in and tested function.no dice. unplugged oven once again. removed oven control panel and upon inspection of printed circuit board discovered 3 solder joints had failed. dang. resoldered failed joints and also sweetened up a few others that looked suspect. reinstalled controller, replaced all retaining hardware, and plugged in the oven. tah-dah!! works like a charm now. moral of the story is check the pc board first and save $50 for unneeded pats!!! or buy the controller from parts direct for $260ish. btw a roll of solder and soldering iron from an auto parts store cost around $10, learned to solder on you-tube $0. amazing all the home appliances yo can fix if you're not afraid to take a few screws out and poke around a bit. CHEERS!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Turn off the electricity for the oven from the switch box. Unsure the damaged element from the unit. Pull it forward and unplug connections. Then plug the new element and use the new screws to screw it back to the unit. That's all

First I called a repairman and left a message. That was 3 weeks ago. So, I 'googled' the error message and determined what part I thought I needed. Ordered the part on Wednesday evening and it was there when I got home from work on Friday. I unpacked the part, got a phillips screwdriver and then watched the repair video on your website. About 20 minutes later I pushed my stove back in place and the flashing said 'set time'. Then I checked both ovens, and have since used both, and everything works!!

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

It was very simple. First thing I did was to go online to youtube and type in the kind of repair I intended to do. There were several short videos showing you how to do the replacement.It was easy and took about 30 to 45 minutes. First thing is shut off the power to the oven. ( Very important). You then need to take out two screws that hold the element in place. At this point, just pull the element toward the front of the oven. You will see some insulation at the hole where the wires come out. Slowly work the element forward until you see the fasteners on the wires ( two wires).Disconnect the fasteners and throw the old element out and put the new one in the oven.Connect the element, push everything back into the hole and screw the element to the back wall. You're done ! I had two wall ovens to fix.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

The trickiest part was making sure that the correct part was ordered. The first attempt was a failure. The seal was too long and the clips were too big.
After finding the correct part it was a breeze.