KEBS177DBT6 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

cut power off and placed sturdy table same height as bottom of oven in front of oven. removed trim screws. pulled oven out onto table. removed top cover and panel on left side . tested transformer to be sure it was bad. then replaced transforner

First I cut off power ! 2 screws for oven trim,4 more to disconnect from cabinet. Hardest part was pulling oven out and pushing back in. I found a big box of correct size to rest it on so I didn't need to disconnect the powerline. 8 more screws to remove the back panel. 2 screws to remove the thermostat.Then put it back together. New part had arrived sooner than expected, cost of the part was less than a minimum service call would have been! I absolutly will use your site again.PS Wife was amazed and now thinks I'm a genious.

I first did a search with my issue, found out there were many others with the same issue. That then led me to see the part, a fuse / thermostat, was the culprit and easy to replace it seemed. But first called a service co. who confirmed my findings, and quoted a fix of a $2-300! So I bought the part; worse case I'd have someone else install. The web site noted the few screws to remove and a key suggestion to find a box of same height to easily slide out oven; I used a porter cable nail gun case which worked great. Took my time removing trim, mounting screws etc., slid out oven easy. Removed back plate and there was the older one. Removed and installed new in a minute. Spent more time cleaning around trim than actual install. What a great day it was. Wife was happy too!

Shut off power at breaker and removed oven door to lessen weight. Removed oven trim and retaining screws and tried pulling out of cabinet. Stuck on power cable, so had to remove Mircrowave oven above to get to power cable plug. Removed oven back cover panel to access thermostat. Easy to unplug and replace with new thermostat. Reassembled and turned on power. Cooked dinner in oven.

I removed the two stainless trim pieces (2 screws) and then two screws which hold the oven frame to the cabinet. Be careful to put a pad on your floor before you pull the oven out of the cabinet as there are sharp edges on the bottom of the oven. I removed apprximately 12 screws holding the back panel in place. The fixed set point thermostat is in middle toward the top of the oven cavity after removing the rear panel. Just remove two screws and slide the terminal connectors onto the new thermostat. Very easy job for someone who is not too handy.

Once we figured out to use small allen wrenches in the small holes of the hinge to enable us to lift the door off everything went smoothly. Took out six screws, lifted out the hinges - inserted new ones, replaced screws and replaced door. Yipee

Thanks for the excellent service. Parts cheaper than local stores, arrived on time, with NO PROBLEMS.
Installation, probably 30-minutes. Took the opportunity to clean glass, door panels, etc while disassembled, so used about an hour. Oven cleaner was a big help in the cleanup.
Very rewarding project and it saves changing the unit and and refitting the countertop.

Repair was fairly simple, unscrewed oven from cabinet and pulled it out. Then remove screws on back panel to access the thermostat location. Unscrew old thermostat, unplug it from connectors and plug in new thermostat. Then screw back in place, replace cover and pop oven back in place. Now fire it up, worked for me! Thanks to part-select. Good luck everyone. Probably saved $200 service call.

After 22 years the oven stopped heating in the middle of a meal prep. The fault code was F3 oven temperature problem. I googled the codes and found PartSelect described the problem and the repair and part needed. I received the oven sensor part, then turned off the power, used a screwdriver to remove 2 screws (had to find the right size flat head screwdriver to fit the square holed screws and they were pretty baked on after 22 years of use), gently pulled the sensor and wiring through the back of the oven. I used a needle-nose plier to pull the plastic connector through the insulation, then unsnapped the connector, snapped in the new sensor connector and pushed it back through the oven wall. Pretty simple repair, took me longer to find the screw driver than the actual repair.
Thank you PartSelect for making it easy and saving me a repairman visit!

This oven probably was manufactured in the '60s when the house was built. The door doesn't just pull off like the newer models. These pins fit into small holes on the oven hinges. I inserted the pins and lifted the door to a 45 degree angle, before pulling the door completely off. Now that turned out to be the easy part. I then proceeded to completely dismantle the door. It actually has 4 glass layers which had to be cleaned individually. The hardest part of all was actually remembering how to put it back together again. I put the door back on just as I had removed it, then took out the pins, and I was finally done! This was not an easy project, BUT the results look great.

Remove the left/right outside trim on the double oven. To do this you will need a phillip screw driver. There is only one screw holding each side located at the bottom of the trim (on the inside between the trim and the door). Remove the trim by pulling out and down. Remove the bottom trim by removing the screws located on the outside of the trim. Remove the trim by pulling down and out. Replace the new trim by reversing the process making sure to replace bottom trim first because the outside trim goes over bottom trim to cover up the screws on the bottom trim

removed double wall oven light lens install bulb replace lens fini

After turning of the breaker for the oven, I pulled out the oven, removed the back panel. The High-Temp thermal cutoff was attached to 2 wires, which I unplugged, and then removed the cutoff by removing two screws. I then replaced the part in reverse order, pushed the oven back into the cabinet, and turned the breaker back on.

First remove the side trimmings by opening the oven door and taking out the two screws near the bottom. Remove the bottom trim by removing the two screws now exposed. Here's the hard part .. The outer glass is held by 4 screws 2 at the top and 2 through U brackets at the bottom. You must remove the 2 bottom ones first and then VERY carefully, whilst supporting the glass remove the 2 top ones and then gently pull from the bottom to release the glass at the top and pull away. The rest is straightforward. There are 4 glass pieces to remove, make sure you clean the finger marks off as you replace them. I would suggest 2 people to replace the final outer glass 'to be safe"

we live in Venzuela the ordered windows come to us via a forwarder in the US, one glass (the outer glass) still has to arrive. Very pleased with the service of PartSelect, one glass was in stock, the inner glass had to be ordered with the manufacturer. This glass is on its way and will arrive here in Venezuela by the end of May. As I have to travel to Europe next week, I will install both glasses upon my return somewhere in August next. I will sure inform you about the repair which will be done by myself.
regards,
Titus