KEBS277DBS7 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

I found the problem quickly at the Partselect web site but because the over door was still locked I called for a repairman. He used a large Allen wrench to force the latch open. But with this type of double oven I really only needed access to the lower over to remave the 2 screws on the side rail to get the oven out. The repairman found the in-line fuse that shut off the control panel but after looking at the schematics decided that the circuit board was blown and that part was no longer available. I was told to buy a new oven ($2000). But because of looking at this web site I decided to also check the shutdown thermal fuse in the back of the oven and found it to be blown (I guess the repairman did not see this in the schematics and decided this oven did not have one). The repairman charged me $89 for the service call, the 2 parts from Partselect cost me $81, so much better than $2000 for a new oven. The instructions given for replacing the parts were spot on, just needed help from my neighbor lifting the the oven in and out of the wall.

The repair was very simple. First, turned off the power to the electric oven by turning off the circuit breaker. Removed the side moldings (one screw on the bottom of each), and removed the bottom molding (two screws, one on each side). Removed two screws that held the oven in place (one on each side toward the top). With the help of another person, we pulled the oven out and set it on a two wheel dolly that was laying flat on the floor. I thought I was going to have to remove the power from the wired junction box, but found that the cord was long enough and I could turn the oven on the dolly to get access to the back cover. There are approximately 12 screws that hold on the back most cover. I removed the cover and the thermal shut off was located in the upper left/center part of the back of the oven. I removed the two wires and two screws holding the part to the oven and replaced. I then worked in reverse and put everything back together. The new part fixed the issue and the oven works fine.

I turned off the power from the circuit breaker. I then removed the doors and the trim package from around the oven. I slid out the oven and had my husband help me lower it to the floor. I removed the back covering and then removed the wires connected to the old thermostat. I unscrewed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new thermostat. Did everything in reverse and it seems to be working very well. It took about 30 minutes total. Some sites suggested that a fuse needed to be adjusted/replaced. In this kitchen-aid double oven and I'm assuming whirlpools as well, the thermostat/fuse is one piece located on the back of the unit. It was very simple. The piece cost $47. Such a great investment of time and money. I had the piece in 2 days, without paying extra postage.

Removed wall oven from wall. Removed back cover. Unscrewed thermastat and removed old thermastat. Screwed in new thermastat and put back together.

Getting to the wiring harness behind keypad discovered a blown in line thermal fuse. Replaced and turned the main breaker back on. Clock & controls back on.

Like others said, the trick was getting the oven door off. If you don't have the instructions, here's how: Open the door all the way. Shine a flashlight on the hinge, and you will see an open hole about 3/16" diameter below the hingepin and toward the oven. With the door open, put a 5/32" allen wrench or any other comparably-sized metal pin into the hole in each hinge. With the pins in place, close the door as far as it will go, which is almost but not quite fully closed. Put one hand under the door handle, the other hand under the bottom of the door, and pull the bottom of the door down and out. With maybe a little wiggling, it will come right out. That's really all there is to it! Taking out all the glass layers is straightforward; you don't need any instructions to see how to do it.

Removed double oven from cabinet after removing the doors, placing it on a milk crate, needs two people, turned it slightly to access the rear panels, removed panels and lower of the 2 motors and installed new motor, replaced all panels. I now have to check to make sure it is turned on it is so quiet! We lived with this noise so long because the appliance repair people said it was very expensive, about $400.00 to replace the motor, we did it for under $100.00 !!

Removing the door was the first challenge but once the door was off it was a matter of disassembling the door to get access to the interior door. If you remove all pieces and line them up in the order that they are removed you have a good chance for success.

The only difficult part of this repair was figuring out how to get the oven door off. Most instructions advise you to flip the hinge locking clips, then lift off the door. But this oven does not have hinge locking clips. What it has is holes in the hinges, just behind the hinge pins. To get the door off, you need to open the door and insert some 3/16' pins in those holes, then close the door and lift it off. I almost got this right the first time, but I used 1/8" pins, and they didn't work, too small. It took me a long time to figure out to use bigger pins. Once the door is off, it's just a few Philips screws to work your way down to the glass. There are 4 layers of glass in this door.

parts arrived in 3 days along with easy to follow instructions. could not have been easier...made kitchen aid look like a class of clowns...

First, I'll say this website made it easy to find and order the part, it arrived quickly and reading others' reviews helped with installation. My Dad and I did the repair together, which really helped - my Dad is an fantastic handyman! We removed the door by lifting it up out of the hinges - a little difficult to get the right angle, but we succeeded with a little wiggling. We disassembled each later of glass/door, keeping each layer in order with screws so we could retrace our steps. I cleaned each layer thoroughly, which added to the time. Unfortunately, just as we were putting the last part on (exterior door with glass), the glass shattered as I tightened the screw! Ack! My Dad said it's because the glass was old and easy to shatter. Maybe I tightened the screw too much? So, back to the website I go to order the next part. We expect it to arrive soon. The bad news: another Christmas without an oven. The good news: my oven is now clean as new (I even removed the back fan cover to clean the fan - couldn't have done that without removing the door) and the parts added up to a fraction of the cost of a new oven.

There are hinges on the door that need to be lifted up to take the entire oven door off the appliance. The screws are taken off of the door to get to the interior glass. The cracked oven door was simply taken off and replaced by the new one and the screws were put back and the door was placed by hooking it onto the appliance and the hinges were dropped down. Simple as that!

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Took off the covers and replaced the little bulbs. Took a long time to figure out how to get the covers off. Bulbs were $26 apiece!

Lower the oven door. Insert the locking hinge pins. Pull the door away from the oven. Remove the 4 screws, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom, to remove the front panel. Remove the 4 screws that secure each left and right spring. Remove the old springs and install the replacements by reversing the procedure. Remember to purchase 2 springs.