KEBS277DBS7 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Instructions

First we watched a YouTube on how to replace the thermostat. It was easy to turn off the circuit breaker. It was a little tricky to pull the range away from the wall and then we were able to unplug. Because our range is a dual fuel model, the back had a lot more screws to remove to get to the thermostat because there were covers over a lot of wires and the gas line I presume. However, we did get off the 12 or so screws with a regular screw driver. We easily located the thermostat and quickly realized that the two screws holding the thermostat in place were neither flat head nor phillips. We were able to remove one of them and merely twisted it sideways, installed the new thermostat with one screw and attached the wires. When we flipped the circuit breaker and plugged in the over, Voila, it worked. The hardest part was getting all the covers off the back. I hope it doesn't happen again because this was an expensive replacement part.

Installed a new thermostat and noticed the convection heating element wire had burned in two. Ordered new element and installed. Oven is currently working properly again.

This is a microwave/ Oven slide in unit. You DO NOT need to slide out the unit, the repair can be done from inside the oven. Just be careful on pulling the wires from the unit so they do not break. I used shrink wrap over the joints but you can use tape as long as it can take the temperatures

Simple - Removed oven door attached retainer with screw.Re attached door.

Whirlpool wanted three time the cost of the same parts The only shipping option was Fedex Overnight which was very costly.

Your prices are great "Parts Select".

Jan

My story isn't so much about the repair but the fine service from part select. My 1st order was lost at delivery at our house. Part select quickly corrected the mishap with no issues. This kind of service is much appreciated.

Unplug power cord, remove wires from block. take 2 screws out. replace with new block about 15 mins. Done

Unwrapped the package, plugged the probe into the oven, stuck the other end into the chicken.

I first removed the door from the front of the oven according to instructions that I found on the Internet from others that have had similar problems. I then removed a total of 8 screws - 4 that were holding the door together, and 2 each for the two hinges that I replaced. After replacing the hinges, I re-installed the 4 screws and then guided the oven door back into place. It took probably about 20 minutes from start to finish, and the news hinges that I purchased solved the problem perfectly.

Remove oven from wall, remove top and back covers.Remove old fan assembly. The new assembly fit right in and works great.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

turned breaker switch off. unscrewed the oven from the cabinet. lifted the oven out of the cabinet (heavy & awkward, needed an extra pair of hands). removed back panel. replaced fuse. reassembled everything. this is the second time i've had to replace the thermo fuse (oven blows the fuse when set to clean). first time i replaced the fuse it took about two hours. second time it about an hour.

I found the problem quickly at the Partselect web site but because the over door was still locked I called for a repairman. He used a large Allen wrench to force the latch open. But with this type of double oven I really only needed access to the lower over to remave the 2 screws on the side rail to get the oven out. The repairman found the in-line fuse that shut off the control panel but after looking at the schematics decided that the circuit board was blown and that part was no longer available. I was told to buy a new oven ($2000). But because of looking at this web site I decided to also check the shutdown thermal fuse in the back of the oven and found it to be blown (I guess the repairman did not see this in the schematics and decided this oven did not have one). The repairman charged me $89 for the service call, the 2 parts from Partselect cost me $81, so much better than $2000 for a new oven. The instructions given for replacing the parts were spot on, just needed help from my neighbor lifting the the oven in and out of the wall.

The repair was very simple. First, turned off the power to the electric oven by turning off the circuit breaker. Removed the side moldings (one screw on the bottom of each), and removed the bottom molding (two screws, one on each side). Removed two screws that held the oven in place (one on each side toward the top). With the help of another person, we pulled the oven out and set it on a two wheel dolly that was laying flat on the floor. I thought I was going to have to remove the power from the wired junction box, but found that the cord was long enough and I could turn the oven on the dolly to get access to the back cover. There are approximately 12 screws that hold on the back most cover. I removed the cover and the thermal shut off was located in the upper left/center part of the back of the oven. I removed the two wires and two screws holding the part to the oven and replaced. I then worked in reverse and put everything back together. The new part fixed the issue and the oven works fine.

Did not want to remove the pin from the new hinges, so found a proper rod and cut off two half inch pins to use in removing the door. followed the manual instructions. Took all of the screws out but did not notice that the four inside face screws were machine screws while all others were sheet metal screws. Had a little difficulty in getting the four machine screws to engage the bottom holes of the new hinges. Reinstalled the door and all works fine. It is too bad that we could not purchase just a new hinge spring instead of the entire unit. It is kind of a waste. I suspect that self cleaning ovens generate a very high heat which eventually weakens the hinge. The upper oven will likely fail in the future, but at least I know how to repair it.

By reversing the way I removed the door hinges from the frame, per the reinstall instructions. I called the 800# and they emailed me a diagram, but the hinges depicted were different than mine. When my back feels better, I'll keep trying.