79046103300 Kenmore Wall Oven - Instructions

Just "locked" the hinges, pulled the door off. Removed the broken glass for the door. Switched the handle from the old door to the new one. thPut it back on e hinges.....viola!! new oven door glass!

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

Easy as 1-2-3

Really a no brainer, but I do have to say that PartSelect customer service is excellent. My part was located and on it's way within a day and arrived a couple of days later.

Moved the stove away from the wall, unhooked the electric cord and the gas pipe. In the oven, undid the two screws holding the probe. Removed two screws and removed the electrical cover panel from the stove back, disconnected the quick connect to the probe and pulled the probe from the oven. Reversding the proceedures, put the new probe into the oven, hooked up the quick connect and replaced the electrical panel cover. From the front, reinstalled the probe with the two screws, reconnected the gas and the power cord and put the stove back into position. It works just fine now!

Started with three screws on outer edge of door, which separated inner and outer door parts exposing the first set of screws on first piece of glass. There are four panes including inner and outer with two between. Keep track of the screws, be careful removing and replacing glass panes (i put mat down to rest glass on)and with nothing more than a screwdriver and windex to remove fingerprints etc from replaced glass, it was a breeze. Good luck! - FK, Bahamas

Removed 2 screws holding old temperature sensor inside the oven and gently pulled out the wire till the connector came through the hole. Disconnected old probe and attached new one. Fished the wire back in the hole and replaced the two screws. Then followed the operating instructions for calibrating the oven. Ended up setting it +5 degrees. So far, works great.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

Our neighbor, who is an electrician, watched the video on how to install. Since this switch was substituted, he paused the video several times to see how the wires should be attached. It worked.

used two flat bladed screw drivers to get under edge of switch.. pried one side up and unit popped loose... removed electric connection (three prong recep) and plugged in new switch ..pushed into hole and was done... approximately 3 minutes..

After trying to unscrew a plate on the side, I found that would NOT work at all, the side panel of the stove was behind it. I found a tab that cut-out on 3 sides just above the location of the recepticle, and simply bent that tab out, pulled out the old recepticle, slid in the new recipticle, and put in the screws and then bent back the tab. It was sooo easy once I found that. I repeated in on the other side.

Pull range unit from wall. Disconnect power cord. Remove back panel on range(10 Phillips head screws). Pull knob from surface burner switch and remove two screws. Remove and re-connect wires from switch by number on switch. Replace switch and back range panel. Re-connect power cord and re-position range to original spot.