JJW9530BAW Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Followed the very clear instructions written by others who also had a combination microwave/oven. Complication encountered because my oven is built into the cabinetry right next to a built-in refrigerator that protrudes by several inches. No room to get a screwdriver in to loosen the screws for the faceplate of the microwave on one side in order to remove the oven's display panel. Luckily had just the tip of a Phillips head and used pliers to carefully turn it just a bit with each turn until screw came out. Also didn't have the right tool to loosen the clock display little hex screws and used pliers for that as well. It was tough to get two of the electrical connections out--had to be careful wiggling them free so as not to break the wires. Finally used a tiny little flathead screwdriver to gently work each side up a bit until the whole connection could be pulled out. Took longer than it needed to.

installed part,turned unit on-temp still cold. reset digital control, up 35 degrees, still cold. un-plugged unit,re-connect after 10 min. still cold.

First I had to remove the cover for the oven because my appliance is an oven/microwave combination. Then I just followed the directions of the people on site and it worked like a charm!!!

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.

I removed the two mounting screws and pulled the harness through the opening unsnapped the sensor from the harness and installed the new sensor i didn't have to used the adapters the new sensor fitted

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

Spoke to your very helpful staff, who advised me that a likely problem was the oven sensor. I took a chance and ordered the part, which came promptly. Your service video for the part was most helpful in my decision to try the part. Installation was a breeze, but it was the oven controller board that had failed and not the oven sensor. That called for a service professional, who ultimately fixed the problem. Your service though, was excellent and I would highly recommend you to others.

Open oven, Remove the 4 screws located on top leading edge of the oven. Pull the plugs from the pannel and then using the nut driver remove screws. Reattach plugs- note do not force. Two people- one to hold the pannel while you do change out.

Removed 4 screws from the front panel. Disconnected the wiring harness at three locations. The printed circuit popped out of the framework. Exhanged with a new one, and reversed procedure to reinstall.

Removed the four screws that hold the oven assembly in the cabinet, slid it part way out and let the front edge rest on the kitchen stool (these puppies are heavy!)

Removed bezel from around the microwave, removed screws that hold the microwave in, and slid it out.

removed the microwave tracks, and removed the top panel from the oven.

remove four screws that hold the timer to the front panel, unplugged three connectors, and remove timer.

Plug the three connectors back in; watch out, the pins bend easily!

Re-install the four screws; the top two are hard to see. A magnet on the nutdriver helps.

Re-install top panel, microwave tracks.

slide the microwave in, re-install bezel.

Heave the whole thing back into the cabinet, and shim to level; important step! otherwise the door won't close right.

Re-install the four screws that keep it in the cabinet. Not needed for strength, just in case gravity decides to stop operating.

Important; don't forget to cut off power before removing, don't forget to plug the microwave back in (ask me how I know) or you'll be pulling it out again.

Easy job except for two invisible screws, heavy components, and sharp-edged sheet metal. Probably saved more than $200 on service charges, between saving on parts and labor.

After reading how the others did this repair, I told Nancy, no sweat, you can do it. We removed the four screws from under the panal, removed the panal, unpluged the wire leads and laid the unit on a towel. We then removed the four nuts that held the clock assembly and exchanged the old for the new. Reversed the proceedure and it worked. Don't forget to turn the power off before the repair.

First I removed the four screws from the control panel. This was done by opening the oven door. Lifted up on the control panel and removed it. Then unplulged the three conecters to the control board. Removed the four screws holding the board in place. Put the new board in, connected three plugs, put the control panel back on and attached it with the four screws from under neath.Simple!!!!!!!

Number one: trip the breaker on the oven. Next, I removed four screws from the bottom of the front display panel. Then, unhooked the panel and gently placed it on the counter next to it. Then I un-plugged each of the three inputs and plugged them into the new component. I then unscrewed the four hex screws from assembly and removed the old unit. I reversed the process and screwed it back in, and when I turned on the circuit breaker, everything worked as advertised. Total time: less than 15 minutes.

Remove 4 screws above oven door. Lift glass clock display from oven. Remove four nuts, unplug 3 connectors, lift module out. Install new module, reverse removal procedure. Shazam! Like new.