S176B Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

The job was easier than I thought it would be. Turned off power at breaker first! Used phillips screwdriver to remove 2 fairly tight screws located on the vent side of the switch mounting plate. Flipped over plate and wrote down the 4 spade tip wire colors and location on switch. Removed the wires from the switch and removed the switch by prying off the locking washer with a sharpened/filed thin putty knife to get under it and then a flat blade screwdriver to finish removing it. Put the new switch in, hooked up the spade tip wires, mounted the plate back on and turned on the power. Worked great and I even impressed my Wife!

Cut power!
Removed old switch.Only problem was new switch had shifted the four 'spade' connectiors on back so when I was done fan and light switch was crossed.

Everything PartSelect had on their site was perfectly correct.

REALLY appreciated the way PartsSelect handled everything, I will be back for further help on other things.

After accessing the switch and removing the wires(four wires as the rocker switch operates both fan and oven light) I attached the wires to the new switch. However , I was unable to mount the switch in place as I could not get the spring - clip type of fasteners to slip on.
Fortunately, there was space to drill a hole on each side of the switch and I used brass machine screws
and nuts to hold the switch. The round-head screw
tops show on top of the stove, but at least the new switch is in place and operating.

Unplugged and removed the old grill element by hand and installed the replacement element by plugging it into the socket. Tools were not required for this and it took less than five minutes. The new element is great and heats much better than the original did before it broke.

needed hammer to help loose screws .pulled out and replaced leement

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

Took parts off from under the range, and replaced the motor. Then put the unit back under the stove and connected the vent.

Everything went fine. No trouble.

The sensor is mounted in the top right side of the oven.An extra long screw driver helps to avoid damage to the sensor when replacing it.The connectors were the opposite to the old sensor and I did not see that there were adapter cables included. It might help to connect or tie these together as I only expected the sensor and did not look for adapters.I had cut the wires and used wire nuts when I found the adapters.The repairs works fine.
Mike

removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..

Removed top plate, disconnected old switch... Had to go to hardware store to get different push washers - the ones supplied with the part were too small. connected switch... tested connections and replaced top plate.

First checked to see if there was power to the heating element. There was , so I knew the element was bad. I ordered a new heating element and it came in 3 days! I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Reversed the procedure with new element. Turned on oven and my wife cooked a delicious meatloaf.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Important: 1) ALWAYS REMOVE ALL POWER FROM THE STOVE. 2) Do not "preassemble" the ceramic recepticle and wire kit. The wires are nearly impossible to remove from the receptacle once inserted. The wire colors have changed and are not the same color as your old wiring. 3) All the fasteners are sheet metal screws, different sizes (note where they are used) and are easly stripped if tighted too hard. Either unplug the stove or open the main circuit breaker to the stove. Take out the right-hand burner cartridge and place it aside. remove the center screw and metal strip from the old receptacle (you will reuse this item). Loosen the control panel from the front of the stove by opening the oven door and remove the four screws holding the control panel in place (Screws are located on the underside of the control panel). The panel slides down about 1/4 inch and tilts forward exposing all the control wiring. Ues a hex-headed driver or large screw driver and remove the drain plug from the drain pan. Use care as there is a small gasket under the drain plug. Remove the four screws holding the burner's pan to the stainless steel stove top. Move the wire bundles aside and GENTLY pull the burner pan half-way out of the stove (it is a tight fit but do not use force. Remove the screws and strap holding the old receptacle from the pan. Withdraw the pan from the stove. (good time to clean the pan and drain plug) With the old receptacle now exposed, assemple the new receptacle and wire harness wire for wire carfully replacing each lead. The new wire harness is inserted into the new receptacle thru the top of the receptacle and will lock in place within the new receptacle. The blades on the end of the wires must point toward the slots in the receptacle. The receptacle wires will be pointing down. Trace each wire and be certain the correct wire is switched out with the proper lug on the control knobs within the stove (needle nose plyers will help but do not force the connections). Gently push the pan halfway back into the stove and attach the new receptacle to the pan with the small metal strap across the back of the receptacle with screws. Push the pan all the way back into the stove and re-attach the pan to the underside of the stove top with sheet metal screws. Re-install the drain plug and drain tube. Tilt the control panel, slide the panel back up into the front of the stove and reattach the control panel with sheet metal screws. Re-install the small metal clip into the front of the receptacle (one end of the clip slides under the stove's stainless top frame). Reenergize. Reset the clock. You're done.

Just replaced old with new, it plugs in same as old.

removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.