JJW8530BCW Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Took screws out of the back on the side the sensor was on, unplugged it & took out the two screws on the inside of the oven to release the sensor. Put new sensor in place with the two screws & used one of the adapters to plug in the new sensor. Put screws back in the back panel & turned on the oven which unfortunately is still 50 degrees low. Need a new clock with computer which is out of stock & unavailable. I was an electrician for 25 years so didn't experience any problems. It was a cheap thing to try.

Turned off breakers to oven. Removed two screws that held oven in cabinet. Removed oven door by opening slightly and pulling up on door. Pulled oven out 1/3 of way. Took out four screws on top of control panel. Took oven light switch off by unscrewing holding ring. Removed temp knob on right by pulling. Removed start / stop knob same way.Removed glass straight out. Removed four screws that held elecrtonic clock conrtol board. Unpluged three wire plug from right side and the nine wire plug from the left side. Worked board out at and angle. Went backwards to connect and replace board, screws and door.Slid oven back in and tested oven after turning breakers back on, worked like new.

First tried the Oven Temp. Sensor, no difference. Next replaced the Electronic Relay Control Board. Successful repair. Total cost: $290.00. I removed spade connectors and molex connectors one at a time, placing them on the new board.

My wife help take the door off. It was a little heavy . The door came apart very easy and went back the same way.We save over $300 by doing it our selfs.

Replaced the thermostat according to existing videos and had to adjust the thermostat using instuctions in the user manual for model CWE4800ACB.

Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!

Removed 4 screws from the front panel. Disconnected the wiring harness at three locations. The printed circuit popped out of the framework. Exhanged with a new one, and reversed procedure to reinstall.

Followed the very clear instructions written by others who also had a combination microwave/oven. Complication encountered because my oven is built into the cabinetry right next to a built-in refrigerator that protrudes by several inches. No room to get a screwdriver in to loosen the screws for the faceplate of the microwave on one side in order to remove the oven's display panel. Luckily had just the tip of a Phillips head and used pliers to carefully turn it just a bit with each turn until screw came out. Also didn't have the right tool to loosen the clock display little hex screws and used pliers for that as well. It was tough to get two of the electrical connections out--had to be careful wiggling them free so as not to break the wires. Finally used a tiny little flathead screwdriver to gently work each side up a bit until the whole connection could be pulled out. Took longer than it needed to.

Removed the four screws that hold the oven assembly in the cabinet, slid it part way out and let the front edge rest on the kitchen stool (these puppies are heavy!)

Removed bezel from around the microwave, removed screws that hold the microwave in, and slid it out.

removed the microwave tracks, and removed the top panel from the oven.

remove four screws that hold the timer to the front panel, unplugged three connectors, and remove timer.

Plug the three connectors back in; watch out, the pins bend easily!

Re-install the four screws; the top two are hard to see. A magnet on the nutdriver helps.

Re-install top panel, microwave tracks.

slide the microwave in, re-install bezel.

Heave the whole thing back into the cabinet, and shim to level; important step! otherwise the door won't close right.

Re-install the four screws that keep it in the cabinet. Not needed for strength, just in case gravity decides to stop operating.

Important; don't forget to cut off power before removing, don't forget to plug the microwave back in (ask me how I know) or you'll be pulling it out again.

Easy job except for two invisible screws, heavy components, and sharp-edged sheet metal. Probably saved more than $200 on service charges, between saving on parts and labor.

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

First I had to remove the cover for the oven because my appliance is an oven/microwave combination. Then I just followed the directions of the people on site and it worked like a charm!!!

I replaced the heating element but that didn’t help. So then I replaced the oven sensor and that didn’t work either. Both were pretty easy to do but I’ve now spend $170 and my oven still isn’t working. I called number listed and got a recording that all agents were busy and there was a high call volume so I can’t get any help.

I removed the front cover piece and looked at what I was going to replace and then put it back in place. I went on line and got the part from the manufacture, not returnable if I screw up and get the wrong part. Ordered and recieved-right one. I removed the front cover snaped in the electrical tested to make sure it worked, it did. 4 screws back together and it is working fine.

After reading how the others did this repair, I told Nancy, no sweat, you can do it. We removed the four screws from under the panal, removed the panal, unpluged the wire leads and laid the unit on a towel. We then removed the four nuts that held the clock assembly and exchanged the old for the new. Reversed the proceedure and it worked. Don't forget to turn the power off before the repair.

First I removed the four screws from the control panel. This was done by opening the oven door. Lifted up on the control panel and removed it. Then unplulged the three conecters to the control board. Removed the four screws holding the board in place. Put the new board in, connected three plugs, put the control panel back on and attached it with the four screws from under neath.Simple!!!!!!!