W30400PC Jenn-Air Wall Oven - Instructions

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

Thanks to JP in customer service.

TURN THE POWER OFF TO THE STOVE at the breaker box!
I had to pull all the burner knobs off (4ea) and remove the screw under each one. Then open the oven door and remove the screws holding a trim piece on and the hex head screws holding the "touch pad panel" on (was also held on by the screws I had already removed from behind the knobs) 1 smaller screw at each end (total of 2) under there hold the plastic trim on that needs to be moved slightly to let the panel come out. (DON'T OVER TIGHTEN WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE) You hang the panel in the 2 slots provided and remove the old display unit. Gently unplug the 2 wire harnesses and ribbon that actually connect the touch panel to the display PC board. Look for the 2 small holes in the ribbon that will line up with the female part on the board. A piece on the board where the ribbon plugs in will slide up a little and allow you to plug the ribbon in and then push it gently back down. Finish putting it back together and turn power back on at the breaker box. Works perfectly.

Remove burner knobs, Removed 7 screws from bottom of face plate. Removed screws from 2 alluminum or steel spacers I guess you could call them. I let the Op Panel hang carefully not to stress wires. I marked all wires of the Latch asm. Removed the four screws holding it in and carefully removed the wires. Replaced in opposite manner and self cleaning works. The oven tried to start the cycle but I noticed the latch never triggered. When the function first stopped working I was able to apply slight force to the door and the latch fired. So after replacing the door switch it still failed to work. So latch asm was the official fix. So I have had to replace the latch asm and the Op Panel for being dim. I don't think this model is very good. But Partselect.com is great easy to find parts and good prices. Very pleased with my experience.

When I removed the bottom bake element and tested it with an ohm meter, it was an open circuit. Once the new one arrived, I simply had to hook up the two leads, screw the cover back on the back of the oven and the job was done.

Removed Door- Removed outer stainless cover(6 screws) Removed the 1st 2 glass pieces. realized that there were 4 pcs of glass, not 2 as I thought. Found 2nd assembly of 2 pcs, of glass. The piece i ordered that was called inner actually only fit on the inside of the the two outer pcs, too small to replace what was the outer piece on the inside of the door. Called, returned 1st piece, got the correct one and reassembled.
Would have been easier if parts had more understandable labels such as inner door outside glass etc
beware when you order!

The repair for the glass on the inner door of the oven was very straight forward and easy. All I did was remove the door from the oven and then systematically took apart the door. I did not have any schematics, but if you just look at it you can figure out what you need to do. Once apart I had to use pliers to bend the metal that was holding the glass in place and then I simply installed the new one and put everything back together. The whole process took maybe 20-45 minutes from start to finish. Now I can bake a Turkey for Thanksgiving...YEAH!!

Remove the screws from bottom of door to gain access to the hinge screws. Remove the bottom hinge screws and then open the door to gain access to the top hinge screws. CAUTION after removing the top screws close the door as far as possible while still griping the sides of the door. Pull up on the sides to remove the door from the stove. The springs are fully loaded if you have the door open all the way and try to lift up (like I did) the hinge will spring back and get your finger. Install the new hinge, put the door back into the oven, install all the screws and then remove the temporary rivet that comes installed in the new hinge.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

Took longer to turn off the power than replace the element ,, crazy the appliance company would charge $180.00 for a 3 minute job.

We operated the oven without the display panel for three years and finally discided to get it repaired. The cost of the repair was going to be over 330.00. I went online to PartSelect and had the part in a few days. I removed the 4 front screws behind each of the knobs, next I removed the 4 screws and 4 hex bolts under the front panel. The two side panels needed to be removed by taking out the screw from under each panel. Remove the front control panel and release the ribbon cable by pressing in on the two side tabs allowing the locking connector to be rasie up relaseing the ribbon cable. The other two power cable can be gently removed. Two hex bolts hold the disply panel to the front panel. Installation is the reverse of the removal process. The process took less then 20 minutes. PartSelect customer service was very professional and I will use them again without a second thought.

After turning off the circuit to the oven, I first removed the 6 exterior screws holding the upper unit that houses the clock element, then I disconnected the three wiring connectors. The difficult one is the ribbon connector. You must push in the two clips on the end and then raise one side of the connector in order to have it release the ribbon. then I removed the 4 screws that hold the element. You then just put the new one on in reverse of removing the old one. It works great. This could be made easier if each new unit came with visual picture instructions for removing the ribbon cable connector. I read all 14 previous customer reviews or stories, before I found one nice guy that described the proper method of removing this ribbon. Thanks

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

The door seal was an exact fit for the factory one. There are little clips that hold the seal to the door. The clips are already installed in the seal. To remove just grasp the seal at each clip and pull up. The seal comes off easily. The ends of the seal are tucked into holes at the bottom of the door so you can just pull them out. For the installation of the new seal grasp the seal at each clip and push them into the littles holes. I used a flat blade screwdriver to tuck the seal ends into the two larger holes at the door bottom. The whole process took about 10 minutes.

I wouldn't have changed the seal but the hot lasagna made the seal sort of hard after it cooled off.

Shut off electricity to stove. Took out bolts, removed old element. Slide tabs out of connectors. Put new heating element in. Put bolts back in and turned electricity back on.