JTP15BW1BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

We had to buy washers and screws to hold the handle on.
Then all we did was undo the screws that were on the side of the door. place handle on door screw the new screws and washers that we had to buy and replace the side screws and it was fixed.

The only problem that I found was that the handle kit did not come with screws or some kind of attachment to hold the handle on the door. We had to buy extras at the hardware store for that.

remove the screws, replaced the element, replaced the screws.

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

#1) Found electrical control breaker and moved to "off" position

#2) Removed two (2) screws with a nut driver, that were holding the bake element in position against the back wall of the oven. Gently pulled the original bake element out toward the door to expose the wire connectors from oven to element, then disengaged the connections.

#3) Removed the damaged element, replaced with the new element, reconnected the wires to the element, and returned same into the back wall opening and reinserted the two (2) screws with nut driver.

Repair was complete. Electrical breaker returned to on. Procedure Done!

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

Initially replaced thermostat sensor but unsuccessful. With some help from internet repair, the removal and replacement of the electronic board was easy given the labelling on the new board was essentailly identical to older model.

The first task is to turn off the breaker so there is no power coming to the oven. I learned in the hard way that even though the oven is turned off, there is still a hot wire connected to the bake element. Next,I removed the oven door and shelves. Then I used a nutdriver to remove the two screws holding the element in place. I expected to find a plug, however the element is connected to two wires buried in the insulation. I pulled the wires off of the bake element, connected them to the new element and put everything back together. This is not a difficult task.

First I unplugged unit. Theni removed the two screws that hold the element in place . Then went to pull the element out to disconnect the two wires,but was having alittle trouble. There for I removed the large plate(cover) on the back of range,and removed the wires from this location. Put the new element in place,reattached wires,screwed back plate back on ,and pluged back in.

I found that some of the wires were hard to remove, so I had to use a pliers. When it came time to install the new part, I found it easier to mark the wires by color on a piece of paper and their location from right to left as I was looking at it. To me it was to hard to try to hang on the panel and try to plug the wires into the new part.

Feedback on site warned me that broiler element is only connected to oven wiring with press-on spade lugs rather than screws. Even with care I managed to 'lose' a wire and had to retrieve it with section of stiff coat-hanger wire bent into a hook. Coming off that experience, I soldered the spade terminals together before reassembly to avoid a repeat. New element, however, failed to rectify problem. Professional technician found main control unit defective -- a $300 part including installation, but at least GE still has it available. My advice to others in this situation is to remove old element before ordering a replacement, and test with meter to see if it's defective. It may or may not be worth going beyond an element replacement to you.

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

After turning off the electricity, remove the inside rear panel over the fan by removing 4 screws, remove the 2 screws holding in the old heat element. Unscrew the unit from the cabinet by removing 4 wood screws on the front sides. Pull the unit out of the cabinet, I slid it onto 2) 4 x4 pieces of wood to make the reinstall easier. Remove the lower black panel on the outside back, it should have 2 screws and it slides into 2 notches on the back. The back of the element electrical tabs are exposed, pull off the 2 electrical connectors. From the inside carefully pull out the old element, slide the new one in the same space and secure with the 2 screws removed earlier. Attach the 2 electrical clips to the electrical tabs exposed in back and replace the metal cover. Slide the oven back into the cabinet, replace the interior back panel as it was removed and secure the front screws back into the cabinet. Turn on the power and test !

I carefully opened the oven door and slid the rack into the groove taking great care not to dislodge the heating element nor to burn myself on the cold oven door. I then pulled open the drawer on the oven and, again, with great care placed the broiler pan into the drawer and slid the drawer closed, again taking great pains to make sure I did not burn myself on the cold over. The reason for the length of repair time is I did not open the box for 2 days. Thanks for the laugh!!!!!!!!!!

Removed oven from cabinet and replaced oven control board, door lock was included in package,installed it also, installed new limit sensors. removing the connections from the old control and putting them on the new one was a little difficult, just have to be gental,plyers worked well, the new control had revised selonids that had 4 terminals and I only had 2 wires, one for bake and one for broil, the selonids had paint dots to show you which ternimal to hook the wires to, yellow on bake and violet on the broil, Lb1 had a stamp on the circuit board next to the side ternimal, the other two ternimals were blank for me. It would be real nice if a diagram was included, even after contacting GE answer center and requesting a diagram, they only had the orginal print that came with the stove, revised the board and not the blueprints, see how that works, call a tech to hook up 2 wires. Put oven back in cabinet and no more error codes.