JTP15BW1BB General Electric Wall Oven - Instructions

I removed three screws to take the face plate off the oven to expose the electronic clock controller. I removed clock controller from the face plate and I then pulled one wire at a time off the old controller and plugged it into the new controller. A new latch assembly comes with the kit, the old latch assembly had three screws to remove it and the new one required only two to replace it. Again I pulled one wire at a time off the controller leading to the old latch assembly and plugged in the new latch assembly. I then replaced the face plate and I was finished. Start to finish approximately 30 minutes.

slid the old ones out and slid the new ones in. done

Alls well that ends well. General Electric changed the configuration of our Light bulb socket on our 1996 oven. It did not have a flange with two screws as the original. The new one, you will just connect it and twist it into place. It worked and we are very happy. Such wonderful people to deal with at this site. Our sincere thanks,
Richard and Shirley

Three things: 1) the instructions were faded and blurey. We ended up going to an internet blog to get more instructions 2) It was very difficult to get the connectors apart. You just had to tug with pliers. Had to be careful not to bend the wiring. 3) Needed to be warned to mark down well where all the conectors came from to get them back in the same place. You are unconnecting 10 different connectors.

thought I'd unplugged the oven, turns out I disconnected the stove top, which is gas and a separate unit. This cautionary tale is here to remind all to look at the clock of the appliance on which you are working to see if there is still power flowing to it.I failed to notice until I was working at disconnecting the old element to prepare the unit for my husband to repaire after returning home. Thought I'd clean things up a bit before he had to get in there. One bright, big and loud pow! and electric fearsomeness set in but caused little damage to me but my ego. I think I got a scorched knuckle-but not burned. Stuff like this is what keeps the repair techs in business. I set the screw driver down and noted the clock was still lit up. D'oh! Shut off the breaker to the oven, cleaned it up, and left the repair to my husband, who made short work of the replacement. Also, we were sorry not to have bothered to remove the door while working on the element connections at the back of the oven. It would have been easier on his back-especially considering we had difficulty grabbing the wires to plug into the new unit due to my precipitous approach. We used an old hemostat(the pincher like grabber things mentioned in a different post) acquired from his years in the ER, and the oven works fine, is clean(er) and I am all through eating my humble pie. Bake on!

Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.

Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.

Removed all mounting screws with ease. Had some trouble deciding how much pressure to use to get wire connections off old unit. Had to pull pretty good with needlenose pliers, a bit concerned at first that I might break connector. It took a good solid tug. Then since there were a high number of connections I made sure to do them only one at a time and make the conntection to the new unit rather than getting confused with more than one wire loose at a time. New part works great and saved a bundle on a repairman.

I attached the end caps to my existing handle, but had to squeeze the parts together very hard to get them to mesh to the correct distance of the holes. I removed the screws holding outside frame of the oven door. I then opened the door fully, propping it up on my knee and removed the inside end cap screws. Placing the handle in position underneath the propped door, I attached the screws. Lastly I reassembled the door.

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

Pull the range out from the wall to access the rear of the unit. Turn off power to the range by unplugging from the wall or turning off the breaker.
Remove the large back cover from the oven portion of the range. Locate the two small wires and connector which is located between the two connections for the broiler heating element. Unplug the small connector.
Open the oven door and remove the screw that holds the temperature sensor in place between the broiler heating elements on the inside of the oven. Gently pull the sensor and the wire connector through the hole and discard.
Feed the new connector and wire through the hole from the inside of the oven. Attach the sensor to the oven wall with the screw.
Go to the back of the unit and make sure that no insulation has gotten into the oven space. Re-route the new wire being careful not to let it touch the contacts for the broiler heating element. Reconnect the wires to the connector and replace the back cover of the oven.
Plug in the range or turn on the circuit breaker. Slide the range back into place and re-level the unit. Test the oven to make sure the temperature is accurate and will maintain temperature.

ordered over the phone a new temp sensor. Un plug the oven, take off the back, open oven and unscrew the temp sensor, pull the sensor until the elec connector clip comes through so you can unclip the old sensor, clip on the new then pull the line back and re attach the sensor to the ovn. Plug in the oven.
Pretty simple, just hard to work inside the oven. I unclipped the sensor line outside the oven to make sure it would come apart first before I was working inside the oven.

just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.

1-SHUT OFF POWER. You can just unplug if possible, but it may be easier to flip the breaker to kill all power to the unit. 2-Use 1/4 in socket to loosen the two brass screws that hold the bake element into the back of the unit. 3-Gently pull out the wires, and pull the bake element from the wires. 4-Replace bake element and put back together. In all it took me longer to walk to the garage to get/replace my tools than it did to repair the unit. Don't be afraid to do it yourself...especailly cause it'll save you at least 50% on the job. :)

We had to buy washers and screws to hold the handle on.
Then all we did was undo the screws that were on the side of the door. place handle on door screw the new screws and washers that we had to buy and replace the side screws and it was fixed.

The only problem that I found was that the handle kit did not come with screws or some kind of attachment to hold the handle on the door. We had to buy extras at the hardware store for that.