GB2026REKS5 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed the crisper drawers and glass shelf and set them aside. Used a nut driver (maybe 5/16") to unbolt the old endcap as well as the back piece which it was attached to. I had to study the damper system a bit so I could figure out how to put it back together, took some quick snaps with the digital camera to be sure I wouldn't flub it. I transferred all of the misc plastic bits which make up the damper system into the new endcap and bolted it back in.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

First remove the snack drawer, glass shelf above it and other plastic pieces which just sit in place. Remove the three 1/4" screws that hold the end cap to the refrigerator liner. Lift up on the endcap and then out as there is a blind slot it slides into. Tilt the endcap out from the back and remove it. Remove the drawer glide from the endcap and transfer it to the new part. Reinstall the endcap by engaging the two plastic ends into the rear corner of the cabinet and then sliding it down on over the blind support. Install the three 1/4" head screws to secure the endcap to the liner. Reinstall the glass shelf and pantry drawer.

Opened package. Washed divider. Dropped in place (where indicated by marks) in drawer. Took a nap.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

First, turn off the refrigerator so the open door alarm doesn't drive you crazy while you are working with the refrigerator doors open! Then, remove both crisper drawers, remove deli drawer, remove deli cover from two pins (one was already broken), remove the bottom glass shelf and the plastic glass support. None of this requires any tools, all just slide or lift out. Then, using a nut driver remove the two screws holding the drawer slide from the pantry end cap. You access one of the screws from an opening while the slide is all the way in. This is where I needed needle nose pliers to remove the screw from the opening after it was unscrewed - if your nut driver is magnetic you won't need the pliers. To access the second screw, pull the slide all of the way out. Then you remove the broken end cap by unscrewing 3 screws with the nut driver. Once the screws are removed, you lift up on the front of the end cap to loosen it from a catch on the inside and then pull the end cap out. Install the new end cap by sliding the two tabs into the back of the refrigerator and then pushing down on the end cap to set it in the catch. Now replace the screws, re-attach the slide with the two screws, reinstall the glass and the drawers and then reinstall the drawer cover by slipping it into the pins on each side (be careful when depressing the pins, do it gently or they may break off). Turn the refrigerator back on. You are done These instructions make it sound much more difficult than it actually is, it takes as long to remove and replace the drawers and it does to do the actual installation of the end cap..

Put new one on matching the sctew feet and design of the grill

I am not handy; but the repair was really not difficult. I removed three screws that held the end cap. I removed the slide and the tempature control. Next, I assembled the slide and tempature control - a bit of time to figure out how it worked. Once that was done, I re-attached the end cap with three screws. Pretty easy, and my wife is happpy. BTW, the part arrived prompty and in great shape. I am very happy!

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Checked Video online. Had to remove the 2 snap on track/gear covers. Pry out the gear with screwdriver and the gear bearing unit. Align the flat side of the bearing unit and snap in. Position the cut teeth on the gear to match original and snap into the bearing. Insert the connecting rod into the long shaft gear and then push back into the short shaft gear. The video said to remove the drawer front but I did not and don't see that it necessary.

Switched the drain out using the video tutorial
Fixed the problem
Have had no more drain issues

This problem is caused by a "Duckbill" rubber grommet attached to the bottom drain tube of the freezer. This duckbill opens up during the defrost cycle and allows water to drain down the "water slide" to the evaporator pan. It doesn't take much to gum the Duckbill. Once gummed up the defrost water is trapped. The Defrost Cycle eventually makes the water flow out of the coil area to the bottom of the freezer then eventually to the floor. The repair involves unplugging the unit, removing the bottom back cover with a 1/4 nut driver, pop the power clip out to give you room, reach in and pull the duckbill grommet and the water slide, then installing this replacement drain kit. This is a p trap replacement that actually fixes the root cause of this problem. A tricky part is removing the water slide, you can see the white snap that holds the slide in place. Using a small flat blade from the top releases the snap and the unit is pulled upward rather easily. This replacement drain clip snaps in the same place. If I had to do this again it wouldn't take more than two minutes to replace. Oh, one major thing, you need to manually defrost the unit. I pulled the front door off, it is held with 4 screws ... don't remove them just loosen them and it pops off easily. I pulled the bottom tray out an it gave me room to squirt hot water with a baster into the back freezer area. Eventually everything thawed out. If I had it to do over I would have waited on connecting the tube to the evaporator pan and placed the bottom of the tube into a small sauce pan or something to collect the drain water and easily dump it into the sink. I used a sponge and that took forever. BTW, just to reiterate, use this item and not that Duck Bill for replacement, this actually fixes the root cause of this problem!

I did it quickly since this was the second time it broke. For easier access, remove the glass shelf above the drawer and the two plastic strips that hold it in place. Remove the two screws (yes, there are three screw holes on each side, but there are screws in only the front and center positions; probably to save money on screws) with either a flathead screwdriver or a socket wrench, which works better. There are two tabs on the end cap that slide into slots in the back of the refrigerator. There is also a plastic retainer on the side of the refrigerator in the front that attaches to the end cap. Gently lift up the front of the end cap and pull forward to remove it. Then unscrew and remove the metal slide bars and install them on the new end cap. Then do everything in the reverse order. Fit the two tabs into the slots in the back of the fridge, then position the fitting over the plastic retainer on the side of the fridge, and gently push back and down. Then screw the end cap back in place. Repplace the two strips for the glass shelf and then slide the shelf back into position. The last thing is to refit the tray door onto the tabs on both end caps. Slide it into position onto one end cap tab, then GENTLY push the tab back on the other side and fit it into position on the tray cover.

This sounds more complicated than it is, but there are no instructions with the replacement piece, which in my opinion is bad for customer relations. This is also a really bad design. If you accidentally leave the tray door open when you close the refrigerator door, the refrigerator door will hit the tray door and break one of the tabs.

a) removed screws with nutdriver
b) took out old piece
c) disassembled good parts from broken piece
d) reassembled good parts on new piece.
e) reattached new piece
f) reattached door to crisper.